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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, here is a how to on installing a LOKKA Automatic Differential Locker for the Front r180 Differential. This covers Frontiers, Xterras, Pathfinders 05+ with the r180 Diffs. This is a spare Front Diff I have so you will need to remove the Diff to start off. I will add a post on Diff removal when I install this one. First and foremost drain the Diff so you don't take a bath in Gear Oil!!
Next find a good open work area so you don't loose any of the small peices this kit comes with. You don't want to do this on the grass, as you will drop one of these little Springs or Pins and never to be able to find them again. If you have a work bench with a vise this will be perfect. In my case the kitchen counter works good lol. Lay a towel down to work on, so it makes finding the little pieces, (Pins and Springs), easy when you drop them, trust me I know lol!

Estimated Time Frame: About 1-2 Hours

Tools/Materials Needed:
[table="head"] - Tools | Remarks
  • Sockets | 17mm and 14mm
  • Impact Gun | Not Needed but Makes the Job Easier
  • Feeler Gauges |
  • Snap Ring Pliers |
  • Pry Bar or Big Screwdriver |
  • 2 Small Screwdirvers |
  • Small Punch | Something to Remove the Roll Pin
  • Torque Wrench | Ft-lbs
  • Razor Blade | Remove Gasket Sealer
  • 400 Grit Sand Paper | Clean Gasket Off
[/table]

Ok, lets get Started ...

STEP 1:
Remove or pry the Passenger Axle Seal Off. Note: Replace with new if damaged. In this case I have a new seal so trying to save the old one is not a option.


STEP 2:
Remove the Snap Ring that holds the Half Shaft in, (outer Snap Ring).


STEP 3:
Remove the Half Shaft by laying the Diff flat or tipping it sideways and it will fall right out. Don't drop it on your Foot - lol.


STEP 4:
Remove the 14mm bolts on the cover and pry it on the corner with the Screwdriver to break it loose. There is a Slot to pry on.


STEP 5:
Remove the (4) 17mm bolts and Carrier Bearing Caps. Please mark these so you will repace them on the correct sides. Nissan marks the Driver-side with Green paint.


STEP 6:
Remove the Carrier Section. Be careful not to lose any Washers or Spacers. The Carrrier might be snug so pull hard.


STEP 7:
Take note on where these Thrust Washers and Spacers are placed, as these need to go back on the same sides
The Passenger-side or Ring Gear side has two spacers / washers.


The Driver-side has just one ...


Ok, you made it this far now time to take the Spyder Gears out and strip the Carrier to install the Locker !! Take a Smoke Break or have a nice Cold Beverage, lol.

STEP 8:
Remove the 17mm bolts that hold the Ring Gear on ... This is where a Impact Gun makes it easy as Pie !!!


The Ring Gear might be stuck so give a few taps side to side and it will come off.

Updating:


STEP 9:
Remove the Roll Pin the holds the Center Pin in. There is access a hole on the oposite side of the Ring Gear you can see I have a drill bit in there to drive the Roll Pin out. You need to use a Punch or something skinny and long enough to drive the Roll Pin out in the case a drill bit. You can see the Roll Pin drop out in bottom of the pic ...


STEP 10:
Remove the Center Pin to take the Spyder Gears out, it just slides right out. This is why you take the Ring Gear off first as it won't slide out with the Ring Gear still bolted on.


STEP 11:
Remove the Spyder Gears and Thrust Washers. You will have to spin the Gears or rotate to get them out, it's tricky. Don't loose the flat Thrust Washers you will need to use them over. The "dished" Thrust Washers get tossed aside not used.


This is what you should have at this point an empty Carrier Assembly. Make sure all the Thrust Washers are out and not stuck to Carrier.


Now would be a good time to clean the Gasket off the mating surfaces. I used a Razor Blade and 400 Grit Sand Paper.


NOTE: If you don't know the Gear Ratio of your Diff, here is the way to check. Take these numbers stamped on the Ring Gear, in this case it will be 47 and 15. Now take 47 and divide it by 15 and Presto you got your Gear Ratio, which in this case, it equals to 3.13333333333333 . Or take the number of teeth on the ring gear (47) and divide it by the number of teeth on the pinion gear (15) again in this case it will equal 3.13333333333 !!!! . ... Just some food for thought. Most all Ring Gears have these #s stamped on them.


** POST#2 IS THE ASSEMBLY PART OF THIS HOW-TO **
 

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Ok, this is the half way point and now for the install part of this 'How-to' Thread ... We are going into the home stretch !

This is what you get in the kit from LOKKA ...
(4) Dowel Pins
(4) Springs
(2) Axle Gears, but I will refer to them as "Outer Gears"
(2) Cam Gears, but I will refer to them as "Inner Gears"
(2) Center Rings


This is what the Unit will look like Assembled.


Ok, lets get started Installing ...

STEP 1:
Install the old "flat" Thrust Washer on the Outer Gear, (Axle Gear).


Place it in the Carrier ...


Please note the Passenger-side or "long side", uses the Non-beveled Gear as the Half Shaft has no Snap Ring. This holds the Half Shaft you removed earlier in Step #3 first half of this thread. Ask "NixX" he found out the hard way by installing it on the wrong side. Basically the Gear on the left side in the picture goes on the Ring Gear Side or Passenger-side of the Carrier. And the Inner Gear on the right side in the picture goes on the Driver-side of the Carrier, it has beveled edges on the end of the Splines.


Here I'm pointing at, (with Screwdriver), the beveled edges at the end of the Splines on the Driver-side Outer Gear. This is for the Snap Ring on the Driver-side CV Axle to slide off when you remove it. Again don't place this on the long side or "Passenger-side" by mistake!!


STEP 2:
Install the Pins on the Inner Gear half. Don't install the Springs yet. Make sure the tiny Nipple or Tabs on the Pins faces down inside the Slotted Holes. The tiny Nipples on the Pins holds the Springs in place when they are installed. Place the Pins in the "Open" or "Slotted" Holes on both Inner Gears.


STEP 3:
Install the Inner Rings. Make sure the Lip on them faces inwards towards the Center Pin on the Carrier. This Lip should not be facing the Teeth of the Inner Gear, (Cam Gear).


STEP 4:
Next intstall the Inner Gear half on the Driver-side holding the Passenger-side Outer Gear half with my Finger, so it won't fall out, (you can see my Finger tip in the pic), be careful that the Pins you just placed in there don't fall out.


STEP 5:
Install the other Inner Gear, (Cam Gear). This is the hard part, because you want to keep all the Pins from falling out. It might take a few tries, but you will get it. Use your Finger to hold the Outer Gear up into the Carrier and slide the Inner Gear into place. Do this with the Carrier on its side makes it easier.


STEP 6:
Now that the hard part is done, time to install the Springs. Start by sticking a Screwdriver in between the two Inner Gear halfs to help get the Springs in. Gently push the 4 Springs into place with the other Small Screwdriver. Using the Flathead Screwdriver like a "Shoe Horn".



Make sure the Springs are fully seated, you don't want them coming out ! Push on them with the Screwdriver to make sure.


STEP 7:
Getting close, install the Center Pin by holding up the Inner Ring in the center to slide the Center Pin in, also you will have to rotate the Gears to get the Center Pin hole to align up. Once it's in, tap the Roll Pin in and now use your Feeler Gauge and go check clearence.



STEP 7.5
Checking for clearance. This is very important to how this Locks and Unlocks the Unit while driving. These Thrust Washers may need to be shaved down or purchase new thinner ones.


This is where you measure the clearance with a Feeler Gauge to see if you need smaller Thrust Washers or shave down the ones you have... Should be .155 +/- .010, in my case it was .144;


And this is where to measure Cross Shaft clearance. It should be close per side, but does not need to match perfect.


Picture of the clearance measurements courtesy of "rocknhd".


STEP 8:
Reinstall the Ring Gear and Torque it to Spec in a Cross Pattern just like Lug Nuts on a wheel.


Now go back to the First Post and start at STEP 7: and work your way back !
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)

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I will fix some of this thread tomorrow its late lol.
I think I got 99% of it done for you, but check it out anyway ...
 

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Nice! I thought I read something about having to grind down washers? Is there some trick that I missed in the steps or is this just not the case?
 

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Excellent write up. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I probably should have a long time ago. Although, as Lizardking already noticed, you were very brief about the trickiest part. The spacing.

You stated, "now use your feeler gauge go check clearance." True. Maybe you got really lucky and it was within the tolerance the first time. I, and most of the other R180 installs I've read needed thinner thrust washers to get within spec. I ended up making my own.

Do you think you could include the manufacturer's specs on the clearances and show pictures of where those are measured? I think that would really improve the How-To.
EDIT: Added.

Also, my passenger axle seal looked just fine but ended up leaking. I'd recommend planning on replacing it.
 

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Good write up...

I'd recommend coating the Lokka gears in grease to aid in holding everything together when assembling the unit. The springs were harder for me to install than what you show. I had one pop out and it took 10 minutes to find it in my garage. As far as the spacer thickness, even though mine were too thick and the inter-cam spacing was too tight (0.138 measured and 0.145 was the min spec), it works just fine.

I think since I had no pics in my write up, for anyone that's going to do this, they should reference this write up and mine http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86089&highlight=lokka plus the one NixX did http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64014&highlight=lokka
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks yes mine ended up just bearly in spec no need to modify or uses a thinner washer . O Will update and add more detailed pics tonight when i get off work. Yea lokka's instructions are very vague. It looks like they are using a GM diff in the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks i will put that picture in the original post and I will get some pictures of the actual measurements . I have a ton of pics of the install just time consuming to get it all on my photobucket and then upload . I wish I had a GoPro camera cause I was just record myself make a video of the actual install have been a lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
IF you guys get a second to watch the youtube video I posted in post #3 it gives a clear explanation on how its works .

By the way thanks to Old Navy for editing the outline of the thread for me . And big thanks to NixX for the testing review thread . :eek:ccasion5:

Im editing with more pics and text ..
 

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IF you guys get a second to watch the youtube video I posted in post #3 it gives a clear explanation on how its works .

By the way thanks to Old Navy for editing the outline of the thread for me . And big thanks to NixX for the testing review thread . :eek:ccasion5:

Im editing with more pics and text ..
The guy in the vid said that it makes a ratcheting noise. It looked like he was using a different brand but the mechanics would be the same from the look.

Does it make a ratcheting sound?
 
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