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How-to: Install Daystar Lift - PBR

72658 Views 112 Replies 29 Participants Last post by  GPzGuy
UPDATED: 09-08-2006
This lift now still going strong with 56K miles on it. But I must say you can buy a better lift now for sure. So peek around.

UPDATED: 07-26-2006
I have 19K miles on my Daystar, I recently did an in depth check of all the parts and install. No problems. Works perfect Added the Timbren co Bump Stops for towing and to add stability in front with the weight of the winch and shrockworks bumper.. Timbren is Nice Add on for that. I also did ECXC and no problems at all!

Just to separate it from Ac's. Daystar lift is different in many ways.
First, Total cost will be in the $400 to $450 range with the alignment.

This is the end Result, look at below posts for more pictures of others that have lifted. Good control is retained with the lift after alignment.
The below X has BFG AT 285 75 R16 KO's $940 At Sams Club For 5.

I wanted to report that I took pictures of measurements before and after. The front spaces only.

Before was 34.5 After now 36.5

That is from ground to fender well center. After installing the rear, that bumps it up to a clean 2.5 to 3" Lift I am going to let it settle before I report final measurement.

I posted good directions in Front Strut removal. So later on people just changing struts can use them. Here they are:

If you need to do this,
Look at Dan's site directions and pictures 1st.
Using what you learned there proceed like this. It's very different from an AC lift because The daystar spacers will not fit into the hole that the AC lift will. You will have to remove the lower ball joint NUT ONLY and break the Upper Control Arm from the Ball joint at the thread only! The Ball joint actually stays on the upper control arm!

This was Taken from Daystar Directions And I added some steps you also need to take. Plus any info from post installers.

Soak all nuts with the lube you use, for parts that is. Use park brake, Chocks, and jack stands.

2. Raise both sides of vehicle until front tires are off ground.
Support vehicle.

3. Remove the front tire and wheel.

4. Remove lower stabilizer link bolt both sides..... spin sway bar forward
out of way. (upper links still attached to bar)
(a) remove ABS line from 3 points, it slides out.
So you do not over extend it when you remove spindle from top.

5. Remove upper ball joint cotter key and nut. (100 ft lbs to put back on)
Put nut back on, tap side of spindle then tap nut up, it should drop out.
The upper control arm will float up out of way.
You do not remove upper Ball Joint from truck at all!
So don't jack up the rubber
Spin that out of way, it moves all directions.
You may Use a Rubber strap to hold it where you want it.

6. Use 9/16's to remove 3 triangular positioned nuts on top of strut.
(DO NOT REMOVE CENTER NUT or you will get a face full of spring!)
Use 3/4 to remove bottom nut and bolt.
Strut will come out through top easily with plenty of room.

Note; You will use a jack on lower control arm to relive pressure, jack and lower things into position. Install your lift parts or new strut and spring or take to shop for re-spring. install in reverse.
Use anti seize and thread locker blue if you want to ever get it apart again. Re check for tightness after 50 Miles.

I don't think I took enough pictures, so who goes after me take more. I did not realize the AC install was so different. Even though Dan's pictures show that.

I was missing the part you don't see here. Dan At Daystar sent it right out. And so Did 4 wheel parts, so I went from not enough to too much. But this is a look at what will be installed.

Tools needed. LOL I like Dan's list better. About any manly man will have all tools needed.
OR you can borrow them from my kids girlfriend.

Shot of ready to extract. You see the gigantic hole it leaves and how everything falls out of way when you just disconnect the upper Ball joint? Notice Ball joint stays attached to Upper Control Arm!
1st side takes like 30 min, second side less than 5 (experience).

Ok here is how you rig to take a shackle out without swinging a hammer.
Normal Ratchet binder, crank crank crank, adjust jack until it falls out.
You may also need the same rig to move leaf spring during install.

Here it is on the out swing, showing hard to do side, you have to finagle the tailpipe ESPECIALLY if you have a hitch! I pulled bottom out 1st and top came easy. A foot was involved, and a hand and a half. Others have removed the rear Tail
pipe mount to allow more room. For even more loosen next one FWD too.

Aftermarket slides in easy. Put top in first.. Use a bottle jack for optimum control, notice block of wood evens out at bottom, jack until hole lines up, or just past that and let a little off jack and catch the hole as it comes down. When you tighten it, remember this part will move freely make sure it does after you tighten it. Snug is the word.

And here is another way to do it if you don't have a bottle Jack and do have a helper. Suggestion by: Speedy_Parker
"Also, I came up with a way to lever the springs down to the new shackle mount point: Just apply downward pressure and viola - slide the bolt in...

That's just a 3' Pry Bar and an old C-Clamp... Speedy_Parker"

Lube Daystar's before you put the weight on it. Then after 50-100 miles. On a Daystar the bolts are 11/16 one side and 3/4 the other. I like it when they do that, you can change them out with one set of wrenches.

I took it for an abuse ride, to try to get the Hit some people get on the upper control arms. I don't get any hit, But I have an S not an Off Road. However B Slater Does have an Off road and he did not have the UCA contact either.

I love the lift, It was super easy to install and takes hardly any time if you get all the parts in your kit. It looks durable and the grease able shackles for me is a gigantic plus. I painted the parts pretty fast to disguise I had done a lift.

Off to Firestone for that Lifetime Alignment! On Sale Now! $99.00 (Reg $148.00 = local Tax) Great tip from Muzikman.

We hope you got some ideas and helped you save time! Thanks to all who did that for me in other how to's.

You saw it at THENEWX.ORG 1st!
05 Pioneer's Input for this Post from B Slater and Muzikman And a lot of info was mentally ganked from Dan's site!

Picture B Slater's OFF ROAD LIFTED X in SUB ZERO TEMP's! It was SO cold he saw a lawyer walk by with his hands in his own pockets!

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The two in front same, the shackles in back same. Unless I am misunderstanding something. I had a metal spacer kit. MC
The metal spacers for the rear shackles that go inside the bushings. they sent me 4 of the short ones instead of 2 long(top) and 2 short (bottom) but the rea is on hold cause they didnt send me nuts either.
Well good thing I posted picture of what you you realize what you did not get. I had a similar problem. (As noted) I called the Daystar number on the enclosed sheet and talked to I think Dan? Anyways he sent it right out UPS, USPS would have been faster though. They will send you the missing parts and you will have spares.

When you call, have the listed PN's of what you need and that makes it easy. And I know the delay sucks. I had mine apart when I realized I did not have everything. I went a week with just a front lift LOL

Yea it is a good thing you posted that pic cause i would have just used the short spacers. but then i noticed I didnt have the nuts either so its on hold and the truck looks like it is going up hill lol oh well.
Is this the correct part number for the lift: KN09105X1

I found it here for 299.95:
I'm looking to lift my '08 S in the next month or so. I've read the lift options forum and a few other things on here. I've got a couple of questions if anyone would help me out. I plan on doing moderate wheeling and I only want to go about 2" as this is my daily driver. I've also got the Shrockworks bumper coming. Is a brake line extension necessary for any of the 2" lift options? Is the Daystar spacer kit tough enough for the bumper add? If I go with the shackle and larger spring route, do I need to get new coil-overs up front? (I'd like to avoid new shocks as I only have 15k on the car) Has anyone had any major problems/maintenance issues with either of these set-ups?
you don't need line extensions, and the Daystar lift is fine for 2" (provided by spacers on top of the shocks up front, and shackles out back). upgraded springs up front will serve you well with the addition of the shrock bumper. it's a good starting point for a buildup..
"UPDATE 9-08 This lift now still going strong with 56K miles on it. But I must say you can buy a better lift now for sure. So peek around."

So, what 2" shackle/spacer kit do you recommend now in place of your Daystar kit, usmc xterra? :scratch:
i know i'm not USMC, but i did the calmini 2-2.5" and i LOVE it :D
Did the Daystar lift yesterday and I wish I would have took mesurement because this does NOT feel like 2" more like 1"........ I want MORE now damn...
I have a hard time to understand how that 1" looking spacer is supose to give me 2...

and Also my LCA is hittinh the top of the strut... I don't really care for now, but still not fun to hear going over bumps
All Photos placed into PB's Purgatory, have been Resurrected for this thread!
Resurrecting from the way way back vault with some comments and an important question.
Question first: Does anyone know the specs or measurements (diameter / length) of the greasable shackle bolts? Specifically the lower one. I managed to break the zerk off of one and now I need to replace it

Comments: this kit is a very good place to start with a lift if you don't have extra weight added like from aftermarket bumpers and winch. There is a real possibility of UCA contact with the strut mount, so you'll need to put on a thicker bump stop.

I ran this lift for over a year until I ended up going with Radflo 2.5s and PRG UCAs in the front, but kept the Daystar shackles in the back. The reason for the front upgrade was Shrockworks and winch. The shackles are great. Eventually I went to a set of Alcan springs, and still kept the shackles. I've got A LOT of miles on them now, and never a single bit of trouble until now that I broke a zerk off one bolt. The zerk itself looks ok, but it pulled the threads out of the hole. Worst case I suppose I could tap a larger and cut in new threads and go with a bigger zerk.
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