Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

How-to: Install Daystar Lift - PBR

72653 Views 112 Replies 29 Participants Last post by  GPzGuy
UPDATED: 09-08-2006
This lift now still going strong with 56K miles on it. But I must say you can buy a better lift now for sure. So peek around.

UPDATED: 07-26-2006
I have 19K miles on my Daystar, I recently did an in depth check of all the parts and install. No problems. Works perfect Added the Timbren co Bump Stops for towing and to add stability in front with the weight of the winch and shrockworks bumper.. Timbren is Nice Add on for that. I also did ECXC and no problems at all!

Just to separate it from Ac's. Daystar lift is different in many ways.
First, Total cost will be in the $400 to $450 range with the alignment.

This is the end Result, look at below posts for more pictures of others that have lifted. Good control is retained with the lift after alignment.
The below X has BFG AT 285 75 R16 KO's $940 At Sams Club For 5.

I wanted to report that I took pictures of measurements before and after. The front spaces only.

Before was 34.5 After now 36.5

That is from ground to fender well center. After installing the rear, that bumps it up to a clean 2.5 to 3" Lift I am going to let it settle before I report final measurement.

I posted good directions in Front Strut removal. So later on people just changing struts can use them. Here they are:

If you need to do this,
Look at Dan's site directions and pictures 1st.
Using what you learned there proceed like this. It's very different from an AC lift because The daystar spacers will not fit into the hole that the AC lift will. You will have to remove the lower ball joint NUT ONLY and break the Upper Control Arm from the Ball joint at the thread only! The Ball joint actually stays on the upper control arm!

This was Taken from Daystar Directions And I added some steps you also need to take. Plus any info from post installers.

Soak all nuts with the lube you use, for parts that is. Use park brake, Chocks, and jack stands.

2. Raise both sides of vehicle until front tires are off ground.
Support vehicle.

3. Remove the front tire and wheel.

4. Remove lower stabilizer link bolt both sides..... spin sway bar forward
out of way. (upper links still attached to bar)
(a) remove ABS line from 3 points, it slides out.
So you do not over extend it when you remove spindle from top.

5. Remove upper ball joint cotter key and nut. (100 ft lbs to put back on)
Put nut back on, tap side of spindle then tap nut up, it should drop out.
The upper control arm will float up out of way.
You do not remove upper Ball Joint from truck at all!
So don't jack up the rubber
Spin that out of way, it moves all directions.
You may Use a Rubber strap to hold it where you want it.

6. Use 9/16's to remove 3 triangular positioned nuts on top of strut.
(DO NOT REMOVE CENTER NUT or you will get a face full of spring!)
Use 3/4 to remove bottom nut and bolt.
Strut will come out through top easily with plenty of room.

Note; You will use a jack on lower control arm to relive pressure, jack and lower things into position. Install your lift parts or new strut and spring or take to shop for re-spring. install in reverse.
Use anti seize and thread locker blue if you want to ever get it apart again. Re check for tightness after 50 Miles.

I don't think I took enough pictures, so who goes after me take more. I did not realize the AC install was so different. Even though Dan's pictures show that.

I was missing the part you don't see here. Dan At Daystar sent it right out. And so Did 4 wheel parts, so I went from not enough to too much. But this is a look at what will be installed.

Tools needed. LOL I like Dan's list better. About any manly man will have all tools needed.
OR you can borrow them from my kids girlfriend.

Shot of ready to extract. You see the gigantic hole it leaves and how everything falls out of way when you just disconnect the upper Ball joint? Notice Ball joint stays attached to Upper Control Arm!
1st side takes like 30 min, second side less than 5 (experience).

Ok here is how you rig to take a shackle out without swinging a hammer.
Normal Ratchet binder, crank crank crank, adjust jack until it falls out.
You may also need the same rig to move leaf spring during install.

Here it is on the out swing, showing hard to do side, you have to finagle the tailpipe ESPECIALLY if you have a hitch! I pulled bottom out 1st and top came easy. A foot was involved, and a hand and a half. Others have removed the rear Tail
pipe mount to allow more room. For even more loosen next one FWD too.

Aftermarket slides in easy. Put top in first.. Use a bottle jack for optimum control, notice block of wood evens out at bottom, jack until hole lines up, or just past that and let a little off jack and catch the hole as it comes down. When you tighten it, remember this part will move freely make sure it does after you tighten it. Snug is the word.

And here is another way to do it if you don't have a bottle Jack and do have a helper. Suggestion by: Speedy_Parker
"Also, I came up with a way to lever the springs down to the new shackle mount point: Just apply downward pressure and viola - slide the bolt in...

That's just a 3' Pry Bar and an old C-Clamp... Speedy_Parker"

Lube Daystar's before you put the weight on it. Then after 50-100 miles. On a Daystar the bolts are 11/16 one side and 3/4 the other. I like it when they do that, you can change them out with one set of wrenches.

I took it for an abuse ride, to try to get the Hit some people get on the upper control arms. I don't get any hit, But I have an S not an Off Road. However B Slater Does have an Off road and he did not have the UCA contact either.

I love the lift, It was super easy to install and takes hardly any time if you get all the parts in your kit. It looks durable and the grease able shackles for me is a gigantic plus. I painted the parts pretty fast to disguise I had done a lift.

Off to Firestone for that Lifetime Alignment! On Sale Now! $99.00 (Reg $148.00 = local Tax) Great tip from Muzikman.

We hope you got some ideas and helped you save time! Thanks to all who did that for me in other how to's.

You saw it at THENEWX.ORG 1st!
05 Pioneer's Input for this Post from B Slater and Muzikman And a lot of info was mentally ganked from Dan's site!

Picture B Slater's OFF ROAD LIFTED X in SUB ZERO TEMP's! It was SO cold he saw a lawyer walk by with his hands in his own pockets!

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
1 - 18 of 113 Posts
B, I didn't open the baggie, but from what I could tell, all parts are in there.
Glad ya got it...have fun putting it on.

I got my AC shackles and shocks today, so I have an evening job tonight.
Bummer, I like the Daystar more than the AC but I am not about to pull the AC off now.
Personally, I think the Calmini AAL, Daystar Shackles and AC front coils would make up the best lift with current products.
Well, I ordered my Daystar over a month before they even announced the AC lift and I got my AC lift two days before my And I am still waiting on my Calimini AAL.
I dunno, the front shocks seem to be holding up well. I think I have about 5000 miles on my lift now and have wheeled it a good bit and no problem.

Now I can't say the same for the stock rear shock bolt as I broke one of them already.
Polyurethane parts are the eight black pieces between the spacers.

The only greasble shackles so far for the new X are the Daystar. The only thing I can say about the AC shackles, they are beefy.

My opinion on shackles:
1. Daystar
2. AC
3. Calmini (I don't like the fact that calmini shackles are not braced in the middle).
The stock ones are not greaseable.

Where the greasable shackles are nice is to cut down on the squeek. My rear leafs squeek like crazy and I think most of it is caused by the shackles.

I think the reason why the longer shackles squeek more than the stock is because there is more movement of the shackle.
When Daystar omitted my Bolt from the kit, I tried for a week at spring shops all over the country to find a replacement bolt. The size was measured in 1 100ths of an inch and no bolt would do but the one that is special made for it. Daystar contracted the bolt out special made. You could find one to fit the hole, but it would tear up both parts and you'd need new shackles, sold in sets.
Wow, so what you are saying is if you are on the trail and snap one of those bolts, you can't just run to the hardware store and get a new one (ungreasable)?
Correct, but I wouldn't want a trail repair to require me to buy new shackles if I didn't have to. I assume if you had to you could enlarge the hole once you got home and used normal bolts. This idea of needing "special" bolts really turned me off of the Daystar shackles.
Well, in order to be greaseable they must be hollow correct? The kind of beating a shackle takes when wheeling I can see a hollow bolt (of any grade) snapping. It would urk me to trash a set of $200 shackles because of a busted bolt. Sure, carry a spare, but where do you get one? You have a spare set because Daystar screwed up and both Daystar and 4 Wheel parts covered the problem.

Just to let you know, things break and things that really shouldn't break can and will. Hell, I snapped off a spring cup on the Jeep and broke a Heim joint in two (at the threading, not at the ball). Those are things that shouldn't happen, but they did.

You bet I would just shove any old bolt into a shackle to get me off a trail. It's better than leaving my X in the woods for a few weeks while Daystar gets me a new bolt.
See less See more
Also, a greasable shackle is not a safety issue. If it was, the stock ones would be greasable. It was a "feature" that I thought was nice.
I understand that any bolt will not do. My point is that it was stupid for them to go that way. There are a ton of greasable bolts in standard sizes, why use a special size.

I have no pictures, but I am sure I can find some. Any time I have seen a busted shackle bolt it's the top bolt from coming down off a ledge / rock and hitting the shackle.
Personally, now knowing that the bolts for the Daystar shackles are proprietary I would go with AC.

Just avoid calmini, I won't like the fact that they don't have a center brace. That can cause undo stress on both the shackles and the bolts. That being said, I have only seen one set of broken Calmini shackles, so they would even work.
RockyMtnX said:
I also prefer no center brace for the same reason- more flex, or at least less binding. BUT, I will concede, it does stress stuff more and provide less on road stability to leave out the center brace.

PS- Wisdom says carry a spare bolt for the shackles, whether it is an exactly perfect fit or not. Something is better than nothing.
With the rubber bushings (which are what is stock) you get quite a bit of flex even with the center brace. Enough that if I had any more my rear tire would be through my inner-fender. :)

I carry duct tape, who needs bolts? ;)

Shackle bolts are actually something I do not currently carry, but I am putting together a recovery box with more of those sorts of things. I don't usually wheel alone (and if I do it's on simple stock friendly trails where the chance of breaking is lowered). If I break anything that can't be fixed with what I have, I can always hop a ride to the nearest auto parts store which in most cases where I wheel, not all that far. Or I limp out of the trail and call AAA. :)
See less See more
kokopop said:
I need to start building a similiar box. I need to get a half shaft from cornick
Yeah, I run around with a spare alt in a carboard box right now. :)

I will have two boxes, one with common recovery gear that I will move between the X and the Jeep and another that will be specific to the X or Jeep that has parts and such im.

the half shafts are the same on both sides right? I plan on picking up one at the junkyard, but their database has them listed right and left. Also, have any idea about the rear axles? Are they the same? I might pick up one of them too if they are.
I just want the rear shafts. I don't know how easy they actually are to break, but they are less than $100 each at the junk yard.

I have found a few front diffs but they are all around $1500. Obviously cheaper than a dealer, but too much to buy just to have on hand.
I stand on my post, any bolt will not do, his question is more for a permanetly run replacement. Still waiting on pictures. MC
Here, pics.

See less See more
1 - 18 of 113 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.