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1. WARNING: Chock the rear Tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling.


2. Slightly loosen each front Lug Nut. Do not remove them, you only want to break the initial grip.


3. Using a Jack, raise the both front sides of vehicle until front Tires are off ground.

4. Place Jack Stands under the front Frame members;
WARNING: Do not use the Jacks to support the vehicle.


5. Remove the Wheels and set them aside.

6. Remove lower Sway Bar link bolt both sides rotate the Sway Bar forward out of way.



7. Remove the ABS Lines from 3 points, they slide out of the notch in each Bracket.


8. Remove upper Ball Joint Cotter Key and 19mm Nut.



9. Put the Nut back on to protect the Treads and then tap side of Spindle then Tap Nut up, it should pop out. Note how the two parts have separated in the picture below.


10. Remove the Nut again and the Upper Control Arm will spring up out of way.

11. Use a 9/16th Socket to remove the 3 Nuts on top of Strut. Remove the rear ones first. You can disconnect the Wire Jack next to one of the Nuts to make it easier to get to.


12. CAUTION: DO NOT REMOVE CENTER NUT, as it holds the Spring Captured under great pressure.

13. Remove the bottom Bolt holding the Shock in place. Use a 3/4" Socket to remove bottom Nut and Bolt. The Shock will come out through top easily with plenty of room.


14. Note: You can use a Jack on Lower Control Arm to relive pressure, Jack and lower things into position.


15. Take Spring or take to Shop to Exchange the Springs or break out your Spring Compressors and use them to take off the old and put on the new Springs. After taking the picture I put some Wooden Blocks under the Brake Caliber as the Brake Line was under stress at this extreme droop.


16. I took mine to a local shop and they did both Springs for $40. Toss them in your parts getter and away you go. It took the shop about 45 minutes. (Kurt’s on Elsworth in Moreno Valley).



17. To install place the new Spring and Shock into place. Attach the top of the Shock first tightening the rear Screws first and the front one last. Note that there is a marking designating the direction toward the Engine (inwards).



18. Reattach the Electrical Connector, if you disconnected it.

19. Use the Jack to Lift the Lower Control Arm upwards to raise the Shock Absorber’s Lower Mount to the point where it matches the Shock. Thread the Bolt in the hole and tighten the matching Nut.


20. Line the Ball Joint up and pull the Upper Control Arm down. Thread the Bolt into place and then tighten it down. Place the Cotter Pin in place. Standards stay that a Cotter Pin shouldn’t be reused, (I reused mine!).


21. Rotate the front Sway Bar back into place and attach the Links using their Nuts.


22. Now do the other side. A Hydraulic Jack can be used to nudge the Sway Bar into place.


23. Put the front Tires on, raise the truck, remove the Jack Stands, lower the truck and check the tightness on each Lug Nut again.

24. Check all Bolts for tightness after 10 miles.

Results: The Ruler I use to measure is a drywall T and has a 1.5” Gap at the bottom so I have to add 1.5” to each Measurement. My truck is a 2006 Off Road.


Before:

After:
37” to the bottom of the Wheel Well which matches the rear with the AC Shackles exactly. My Xterra just barely fits inside the Garage now, with 3” to spare above my Basket – The Roof Lights have to be rotated downwards to fit.



(Thanks to USMC for the Initial Guide to help me produce this one)
 

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Wow. man, this is almost as good as watching a video.. great write up.
 

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BGXterra said:
Wow. man, this is almost as good as watching a video.. great write up.
That is a great write up. I'm not sure a video would provide any more information. Thanks!
 

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Yea that is like perfect! My grandmother can do it with these directions! Back when I did mine, my info was a lot, but it's about time we replace some of my posts with the new fangled ones for sure! Nice job great pictures.

Frankly I was up to my Azz in things to do when I did mine and having no idea what was going to happen next, not too much time for pictures! Although you know I always say, pictures pictures pictures!

Super write up!
MC
 

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Sweet job and great pics! But ... 34.5" + 1.5" = 37"??? Your final mesurements should read... 34.5" + 1.5" = 36"
 

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holy crap a marine noticed that!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ROPEGUN said:
Sweet job and great pics! But ... 34.5" + 1.5" = 37"??? Your final mesurements should read... 34.5" + 1.5" = 36"
Yikes, fixed it. Refresh cached images. :clown:
 

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I did almost the same thing this weekend and honestly steps 7 and 8 are optional. There is plenty of room to remove the factory coils and place the new ones in place with the ABS line still attached and the Upper A arm still connected.
 

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If i did this on my 'S' model, would I need brake-line extenders? I really like this write-up - great job! Could you post links as to what springs/shackle package you ordered? Thanks!
 

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hattrik21 said:
I did almost the same thing this weekend and honestly steps 7 and 8 are optional. There is plenty of room to remove the factory coils and place the new ones in place with the ABS line still attached and the Upper A arm still connected.
I agree, no need to touch the ABS lines or remove the UCA from the steering knuckle.
 

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HELP!!!! i can't get the ball joint to seperate! unfortunately, i also do not have a parts vehicle to go get a seperator. I keep trying the way above to get either side apart and its not working. any suggestions???
 

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Deltaphi216 said:
HELP!!!! i can't get the ball joint to seperate! unfortunately, i also do not have a parts vehicle to go get a seperator. I keep trying the way above to get either side apart and its not working. any suggestions???

do you mean you can't get the control arm out of the spindle??

if so, rethread the nut till it's flush with the bolt and lightly tap with a rubber mallet or hammer...it should pop up and when you unthread the nut it will pop out of the spindle.....be sure to thread the nut or you'll screw up the threads on the UCA and have an issue with the nut later.
 

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willgr1 said:
Deltaphi216 said:
HELP!!!! i can't get the ball joint to seperate! unfortunately, i also do not have a parts vehicle to go get a seperator. I keep trying the way above to get either side apart and its not working. any suggestions???

do you mean you can't get the control arm out of the spindle??

if so, rethread the nut till it's flush with the bolt and lightly tap with a rubber mallet or hammer...it should pop up and when you unthread the nut it will pop out of the spindle.....be sure to thread the nut or you'll screw up the threads on the UCA and have an issue with the nut later.
Thanks for the help! I got them both. just needed a bigger hammer. It worked like a charm!
 
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