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The MC - CMHX Hood Rod Mod! NOTE: It's Sep. 08 and I drop in to say This is the best MOD I have done to my X! And these instructions are still right on. However I as well as some have had a little problem with the screws holding at the hood, So Use whatever you can find to make sure they hold, there are several fixes from JB weld to the Screen that goes into the hole with the screw and so on. I just LOVE this MOD!
Open wide!
What you get:
Nothing says cheap like a Rod you fumble with to hold the hood open, and if you push it up while working it can drop the hood on your head. With this MOD you open the hood like a Cadillac and it stays up as wide open as it possibly can, giving you much more room over that cheapo Rod Nissan stuck us with!
You need:
$50.00 or your wives/mothers credit card.
21/64 Bit and a 3/32 bit. plus a drill to run it. (No hamster powered ones)
7/16 in wrench.
2 self tap 8 18 x 1/4 in screws, so short you wont run up through the hood. You are responsible for making sure they are not to long for your install.
*** and the things CMHX lists in his so cool how to on getting the nuts on the ball stud.
Autozone part numbers:
Nuts: 982-008 & a wrench to fit.
Washers: 766-112
See below.
Step 1 . Go and Buy Mighty Lift B 95245 $24.00 ea (2) @ autozone.
Break out the stud in that package and buy two M 8 1.25 pitch Metric Nuts as shown below by CMHX.
Now pay attention to the post here, make sure no one ganked the brackets you need.
You are done shopping if you have a well equipped garage, or a neighbor who does.
Step 2 We will prop hood and work on passenger side,
This stud will go 17 inches on center from where you see the end of my ruler.
Ok now break out the drill. Let the 'ol man teach you how not to drill a hole smack ass through your fender!
You take a small section of small PCV or tube or whatever sturdy and you slip it over the drill in the bit and cut it so that only enough of the bit shows through that will penetrate the metal, when it does, it slaps on PVC and stops with no damage, you still have to be careful but this really takes the edge off the maneuver and keeps that hood looking new. Picture here so no confusion.
See the location of the hole on bottom? It goes halfway between the 2nd and third notches you see on in the corners of the passenger side fender.
Step 3. You drill out USING the PVC trick above! 3/32nd bit as pilot hole towards the fender parallel to the deck! *** This is how drivers side looks but we are working on pass side! Driver side is measured and copied from pass side when done.
Step 4. OK, Now we go to the person who found the cure for my problem getting the nut on the Ball stud. I am posting his PM in entirety so you know just what to do. Thanks to CMHX!!!! Who made this mod drastically easier than the way I did it! You all can be as thankful as I for his cure. Here it goes:
Step 4 a DON'T do this! Just look! This is how it will look when done. I don't want you to put this on yet, PITA if you do, it just pulls off maybe use a open end wrench to pry it off?
Step 5. Install the bracket. Now you have to use the PVC trick if you are not using self tap screw (not suggested) or just install supplied bracket as shown where shown. Make sure your screws are short enough. It's kinda at the bottom of the crease in the hood and centered as shown. The screws go in 2 inches from the edge of the hood. Do the top screw 1st. Keep in mind your goal is to not drill through anything important!
This gives you an idea of where it goes also.
Step 6. Now that you have the bracket installed with both Short Self Tap screws with a washer. You are now ready for the Mighty Lift install. 1st drape a light color sheet over the engine compartment, you will drop one of these washers and never find it, then you will go gank one out of a package at Autozone and I'll be going in to buy it and get ripped! Blanket in place, take the Mighty Lift and the stud that goes through the bracket install Stud, now a white plastic washer supplied, then slip hole of Mighty Lift through and here is the hard part... the other white plastic washer, Now poke the stud all the way through, and put the retainer clip on. The Mighty Lift should be swinging by the bracket. Now, Just swing the end towards the stud and it just pushes on the stud. You are done! It will work! But it's kind of weak eh? Like a limp dick. It will hold the hood up though!
Step 7. On now, Bar a strong wind, the lift on the pass side is holding up the hood. Remove the hood rod as shown.
It pulls up towards you at front spins left and push towards engine from pass side as you dip the tip of it towards the roof rack.
It comes out easy, it's a puzzle, don't use any force that would damage anything!
Like this:
Then this:
Step 8. You want to kind of copy your measurements from Pass side and duplicate it to Drivers side. Mind you I have left you about 1 inch for error. Try not to use it.
Step 9. Now that you have both installed the hod will stand erect as a teenage stud! Hold on there! Whooo feel the stiffness! That puppy opens wide and stays put but shuts easily!
Pictured complete! Notice it holds hood up much higher than the Rod? Almost to Max!
I LOVE this MOD! The subtle WOW factor! And I love it more with CMHX's update! Always comforting to know someone has copied your work, improved it and liked the MOD just as well!
Thanks once again to CMHX for the cure to my problem making this mod easy for all to do. I only do these How To's so you can get an Idea what is involved and possibly do it if you want to. I can't take any responsibility for the absence of good mechanical know how, proper tools and skills to do the job. But, You can do it! Thanks to all who have done my MODS and some who have helped make it easier for others with tips! MC
Open wide!
What you get:
Nothing says cheap like a Rod you fumble with to hold the hood open, and if you push it up while working it can drop the hood on your head. With this MOD you open the hood like a Cadillac and it stays up as wide open as it possibly can, giving you much more room over that cheapo Rod Nissan stuck us with!
You need:
$50.00 or your wives/mothers credit card.
21/64 Bit and a 3/32 bit. plus a drill to run it. (No hamster powered ones)
7/16 in wrench.
2 self tap 8 18 x 1/4 in screws, so short you wont run up through the hood. You are responsible for making sure they are not to long for your install.
*** and the things CMHX lists in his so cool how to on getting the nuts on the ball stud.
Autozone part numbers:
Nuts: 982-008 & a wrench to fit.
Washers: 766-112
See below.
Step 1 . Go and Buy Mighty Lift B 95245 $24.00 ea (2) @ autozone.
Break out the stud in that package and buy two M 8 1.25 pitch Metric Nuts as shown below by CMHX.
Now pay attention to the post here, make sure no one ganked the brackets you need.
You are done shopping if you have a well equipped garage, or a neighbor who does.
Step 2 We will prop hood and work on passenger side,
This stud will go 17 inches on center from where you see the end of my ruler.
Ok now break out the drill. Let the 'ol man teach you how not to drill a hole smack ass through your fender!
You take a small section of small PCV or tube or whatever sturdy and you slip it over the drill in the bit and cut it so that only enough of the bit shows through that will penetrate the metal, when it does, it slaps on PVC and stops with no damage, you still have to be careful but this really takes the edge off the maneuver and keeps that hood looking new. Picture here so no confusion.
See the location of the hole on bottom? It goes halfway between the 2nd and third notches you see on in the corners of the passenger side fender.
Step 3. You drill out USING the PVC trick above! 3/32nd bit as pilot hole towards the fender parallel to the deck! *** This is how drivers side looks but we are working on pass side! Driver side is measured and copied from pass side when done.
Step 4. OK, Now we go to the person who found the cure for my problem getting the nut on the Ball stud. I am posting his PM in entirety so you know just what to do. Thanks to CMHX!!!! Who made this mod drastically easier than the way I did it! You all can be as thankful as I for his cure. Here it goes:
That last picture still has me laughing! OK on to my instructions.CMHX said:OK, all done. Here's what I came up with:
First off, I picked up some different washers than you did. I got a set of M8-1.25 nuts that have the barbs on the back so they work like a lock nut. I also picked up a pack of M10(3/8") fender washers. I was looking for M8, but they were out. Turned out in my favor because it made lining up the stud with the washer in the tight space a lot easier. Here are the nuts and washers:
![]()
Autozone part numbers:
Nuts: 982-008
Washers: 766-112
I also drilled out the holes for the studs to 21/64" so the stud would go in unimpeded. It didn't matter to me since I didn't plan to tap the holes after your update.
I used a few small pieces of masking tape to tape the nut to the washer - again, to make it easier to line everything up for assembly. I also bent up a small piece of wire (a thin wire coat hanger would work just fine). This is used to hold the nut and washer in place.
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Thread a three foot long piece of string or fishing line through the stud hole and let it fall down into the fender well until you can reach it. Feed the string through the washer and nut. I used another piece of masking tape to stop the nut from sliding on down the string when I pull on it.
![]()
Gently pull on the string until the washer and nut are against the back side of the stud hole. It may take a bit of jiggling of the string to get it past the tight spots in the quarter panel. Feed the bent wire tool through the quarter inch gap between the outer quarter panel sheet metal and the inner engine bay sheet.
![]()
Once the washer and nut are captured by the wire, GENTLY pull the string back down through the wheel well. Once the wire is out of the way, start the stud into the hole just far enough to get the threads started. Once the threads are started, apply some threadlocker to the exposed threads and tightened it down.
Thanks again for a brilliant idea. I love this mod. Here is a shot of my completed work:
![]()
And just to keep the idiots out:
![]()
Step 4 a DON'T do this! Just look! This is how it will look when done. I don't want you to put this on yet, PITA if you do, it just pulls off maybe use a open end wrench to pry it off?
Step 5. Install the bracket. Now you have to use the PVC trick if you are not using self tap screw (not suggested) or just install supplied bracket as shown where shown. Make sure your screws are short enough. It's kinda at the bottom of the crease in the hood and centered as shown. The screws go in 2 inches from the edge of the hood. Do the top screw 1st. Keep in mind your goal is to not drill through anything important!
This gives you an idea of where it goes also.
Step 6. Now that you have the bracket installed with both Short Self Tap screws with a washer. You are now ready for the Mighty Lift install. 1st drape a light color sheet over the engine compartment, you will drop one of these washers and never find it, then you will go gank one out of a package at Autozone and I'll be going in to buy it and get ripped! Blanket in place, take the Mighty Lift and the stud that goes through the bracket install Stud, now a white plastic washer supplied, then slip hole of Mighty Lift through and here is the hard part... the other white plastic washer, Now poke the stud all the way through, and put the retainer clip on. The Mighty Lift should be swinging by the bracket. Now, Just swing the end towards the stud and it just pushes on the stud. You are done! It will work! But it's kind of weak eh? Like a limp dick. It will hold the hood up though!
Step 7. On now, Bar a strong wind, the lift on the pass side is holding up the hood. Remove the hood rod as shown.
It pulls up towards you at front spins left and push towards engine from pass side as you dip the tip of it towards the roof rack.
It comes out easy, it's a puzzle, don't use any force that would damage anything!
Like this:
Then this:
Step 8. You want to kind of copy your measurements from Pass side and duplicate it to Drivers side. Mind you I have left you about 1 inch for error. Try not to use it.
Step 9. Now that you have both installed the hod will stand erect as a teenage stud! Hold on there! Whooo feel the stiffness! That puppy opens wide and stays put but shuts easily!
Pictured complete! Notice it holds hood up much higher than the Rod? Almost to Max!
I LOVE this MOD! The subtle WOW factor! And I love it more with CMHX's update! Always comforting to know someone has copied your work, improved it and liked the MOD just as well!
Thanks once again to CMHX for the cure to my problem making this mod easy for all to do. I only do these How To's so you can get an Idea what is involved and possibly do it if you want to. I can't take any responsibility for the absence of good mechanical know how, proper tools and skills to do the job. But, You can do it! Thanks to all who have done my MODS and some who have helped make it easier for others with tips! MC
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