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Alright, I'm editing this post. This thread has been sitting around and I put pics up of the Cooler/San set up I ran, but I figured I'd edit it and provide some more information for anyone wanting to do something like this. This is not a 'How-to'. This is just trying to share some of the information for anyone doing the same research that I had to.

First of all, this is in direct relation to the Radiator Bypass found at this link.

How-to: Bypass Radiator Transmission Cooler - PBR

Whether you want to Bypass or not is up to you. I was not comfortable with the risk of destroying my Transmission and felt I needed to Bypass. I was very hesitant to do JUST the Bypass as I felt that the heat issues that that causes are just as deadly to the Transmission as Coolant is. I have purchased a BullyDog since doing all this and without the Fan running, (ATF is only being cooled through the single Cooler), I very quickly reached temps of 200+ while wheeling or stop and go in traffic. This has been discussed many other places and it seems that there are various opinions on whether or not you need the Fan, etc, etc. I'll say this, I stand behind my decision to do the Bypass AND add the Fan. I have been running this setup since last summer and have been monitoring Transmission Temps through both the BullyDog GT and the Gauge that I installed in the hard line. Both Temps Sensors are confirming that I'm running around 160 degrees on average. I'll see as high as 180 on occasion, however I have an Alarm in the BullyDog that dings when I reach 180. In most cases the Fan comes on by itself, if it doesn't however, (or if it shuts off sooner than I wanted), then I have it wired so I can override it and I simply turn it on and let it cool. The Fan being set up behind the Cooler as a "Puller" works within 5 minutes. I need to measure how far the temp drops in that time but it is significant.

My biggest concern with this set up was that during very cold temperatures I had no way of Bypassing the Cooler. I am now comfortable with that as well. I spent a 3-4 days in PA this Winter where we sat at roughly 0 degrees and below, (especially at night), the whole time. I wheeled during that time and also spent extended periods of time on the highway at 55mph+. The lowest the trans temp got, (once warming up obviously), was around 115-120. The truck ran fine and upon doing some research it appears that there should be no issues so long as it stays somewhere over 100 degrees.

So, all that being said, almost a year later I'm very happy with this set up and feel that it does a great job. I can also say beyond a shadow of a doubt that without the Fan, I'd have seen temps of 220 Degrees, (and much higher in some cases), many times this past summer.

Other Useful Links:
This is a TON of info put together by jeff_redx on ATF Cooling, the Bypass etc. I recommend reading through all of his results, data, and decisions on this and deciding where you want to go from there.

Thoughts and Observations on Engine and Auto Trans Cooling - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
ATF Temperatures and Cooling System Performance - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
ATF Temperatures and Cooling System Performance, Part 2 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)

Here is the 'Parts List' that I did. There are much cheaper ways of doing this and if I did it over I'd probably do it differently. I'll also post a "secondary" 'Parts List' for what I would have done the first time had I had the knowledge I do now.

What I Actually Did:
My sources (www.amazon.com, HOME - B&M Transmissions, Shifters, Torque Converters, Diff Covers, Coolers, and www.summitracing.com)
-B&M Hi-Tek Transmission cooler (70297)
-2X 90* -6AN barb connections
-2X 90* 1/2" NPT to -6AN connectors
-B&M transmission temperature gauge
-25ft 3/8" transmission hose (you likely will only use a few feet of this)
-Various hose clamps
-Some form of mounting the cooler. Look at my pictures and you'll see what I did. This will likely vary for everyone and I'm sure there are better ways.
-OTRATTW SPDT switch
-2X SPST relays (these are really unnecessary in most cases)
-Wire of your choice

Important Notes About This Setup:
I had to Trim the CRAP out of the back of my Grill to fit this Cooler and Fan in. The Cooler is 3/4" Thick and the Fan makes it about 1 1/2" Thick. Since the Fan is designed as a Puller Fan, I wanted to keep it that way which made it take up more room because I had to space the Cooler out towards the Grill to give the Fan room between the Trans Cooler and the actual Radiator. If you look at the Honeycomb looking part of your stock Grill, you'll notice it's a couple inches thick, I literally trimmed, (especially towards the top of it where it slopes in), down to about 1/4" Thick so you are talking about taking a lot of Plastic off the Grill.
You will need to run the Hose that feeds into the Cooler over to the Driver-side of the Cooler once it's mounted. That side, (if you mount it with the Fan working as a Puller), is the side with the Thermostat in it to kick the Fan on. I tried running it the other way but the Fan never kicked on because it was only ever getting already Cooled ATF through the Cooler.

What I Would Do Now:
- I would use the OEM Transmission Cooler and my reason for doing so would be added peace of mind as that Cooler has the Bypass in it so in Extreme Cold Temps it will force ATF to Bypass the Cooler until it reaches operating temperatures.
-Pro Comp 9" fan
- May need something like this to mount the fan, not sure, you'll have to figure that out
-OTRATTW SPST switch
-Wire of your choice
-Weld in adapter to 1/8" NPT (in trans pan)
-Sunpro temp gauge

- OR, instead of the hassle of putting a temp sensor in the pan, I HIGHLY recommend the Bullydog GT, it's a great tuner first of all and secondly, it works very well for trans temp monitoring and much more. Worth the money!

Important Notes About This Setup:
I'd still trim the Grill to give myself space and then install Spacers behind the OEM Trans Cooler Mounts so it sits further away from the Radiator. I'd then take the Pro Comp Fan or something like that and mount it behind the Trans Cooler so it's pulling through the Cooler just like the B&M that I got is. (Note: A Fan with a Shroud would be good so it sits Flush against the Cooler and doesn't just pull air around the Cooler), I wouldn't worry much about a Thermostatically Controlled Fan. I rarely use it. Usually I use the BullyDog and monitor temps and as soon as I see it climbing I just manually turn the Fan on. That being said, you can pretty much ignore all of my wiring suggestions. No need for Relays, etc, (depending on how you set it up), you can just run from Battery, through the Switch and out to the Fan. Make sure you match the Amperage and have an appropriate In-line Fuse and you're all set.

SO, obviously there is options here, my recommendation would be to take your time, do a bunch of research and then make your own, educated decision on the matter.

Because I did not get any pictures of the work I did, this might be helpful to someone. The OEM configuration for the ATF Flow is as follows:

Transmission -> Radiator -> ATF Cooler -> Transmission

(Just figured that would help people determine which is the Output Hardline from the Transmission and which is the Return Line.)

Alright, Here Is What Little Documentation I Have Of What I Did Do:
What I wanted to do with the Fan was have something that would kick on automatically in case I forgot to turn it on or anything, (As per my edits above this), you'll see that I don't really use the Thermostatic Control anymore, I find it somewhat unnecessary. I also wanted a Manual Override though so that if I felt like the Thermostat wasn't coming on as soon as I wanted it to then I could kick it on Manually. Here is a Diagram of most of the wiring I have done in my truck. Sorry about the excess info in the Diagram, but this was one of the better Diagrams I have made that shows what I did with the Fan so hopefully the rest isn't to distracting.

NOTE: In most cases there is no reason to have the Relays like I did. The OTRATTW Switches are good for 12V 20A, in most cases this is plenty. When I did this I was trying to incorporate the Lights in the Switches into the Dimmer Circuit for the Dash and did a little extra. I'll let you decide how you want to wire everything. In my case, if you look at the Diagram, I did use the Relays to prevent Power from flowing in certain directions... There are many ways to accomplish all of this.


STEP 1: Well, in all the pictures below this you'll see the Mounting Points. I know these Mounting Points are not the prettiest thing in the world, but they work really well. The Cooler does not vibrate or move around at all and it allowed me to adjust the Mounting Point until I got the Fan far enough away from the Radiator, etc, etc. If someone comes up with some better ideas though, please share them. I will say though, if you follow my lead on the mounting of this Cooler, make sure you get thick metal for the Brackets, it was a huge pain in the ass to bend it, but it is the reason the Cooler doesn't move. To thin on the metal and it would not be sturdy enough.

STEP 2: You can see the connections I bought on the top of the Cooler. I RTV'ed them but you should probably use something that is designed for the NPT threads. Before you finalize the mounting, make sure the connectors clear the Grill. They stick up and get in the way. Also, I highly recommend you mount this the way I did if you buy this Cooler. I originally wanted to mount it upside down to get those connectors out of the way but there was no way I could ensure that I didn't get air pockets in the cooler that way so I opted not to.

STEP 3: You can see the added Trans Line I had to put in to route the Input over to the Driver-side of the Cooler. I found a 3/8" barb to 3/8" barb connector and just used that. It was actually a pain in the ass as well because the two lines varied in size slightly. Supposedly the Nissan ATF Line IS 3/8", (at least the Hard Line definitely is), but it did not seem to fit the connector well. I was able to clamp everything down tightly with Hose Clamps though and have had no leaks so I can't complain.





B&M Transmission Temperature Gauge:
STEP 1: This install of the Temp Sensor literally took 90% of the day I spent on this project. That is no lie, I spent hours on this. The Lines are held together and are hard to get to cut for the Sending Unit. DO NOT cut this with anything other than a tool such as this, (http://www.lowes.com/pd_330219-1687...r&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=tube+cutter&facetInfo=). This is actually the exact tool I used. You will need one that is small like this to work in the confined spaces. If you cut with anything other than a tool like this you run the risk of not quite getting a straight cut and the Compression Fitting on the Sending Unit will not seal on it.

STEP 2: Because the Lines are held together and they run the same route, I'd actually take a small length of the line completely out. I just cut it and installed the Sending Unit, but now my Lines don't quite run side by side because the Sending Unit added about an inch of length to the Return Line.

STEP 3: One thing I'm going to do until I can get the Pan Temp Sender installed, if you search you will find some writings by a member named jeff-redx who has done a TON of really helpful research on all things Trans Temp, Bypass, etc. Some of his results showed that the Return Line actually was Hotter as it got closer to the Transmission, because it ran right beside the Hot Output Line from the Trans taking the Hottest ATF up to the Cooler. I am going to do an Insulation Wrap around the Temp Sender and Wrap it right against the Output Line to see how it effects my Temp Readings. It still won't be a true Pan Temp, but I'm hoping to see more of an "average" temp.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just bumping this because I completely changed the whole question I was asking lol. Any opinions on running this set up would be helpful.

Just measure our stock trans cooler, it's roughly 13" by 9" by 1.5" deep. The cooler I linked above is close to those diamters but is twice as thick plus has the thermostaticly controlled fan which should make it waay more efficient. If so, I would think this could work to try to keep temps low while still having the bypass done.
 

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why not just replace radiator with a good non-nissan radiator and call it a day? I did for my 2007 s and all is well....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I did consider that but it seems that one of the causes high on the list as the possible reason for the whole SMOD issue is the nissan trans fluid. Since I will be continuing to run Matic S, what is to keep that from still corroding an aftermarket radiator and causing the same issue.

I'd rather bypass the radiator completely for peace of mind and find another set up that will cool atleast close to the same amount as the stock set up.

This cooler looked pretty effective. I dont like the idea of just stacking another cooler in there as much as I like the idea of adding a better more effective cooler.
 

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yeah i see your point.


if i was that confident in my ability to rig a cooler AND fan up in the right place and way to bypass the rad, I would.

I think a cooling fan is a requirement though if you are bypassing the radiator...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, the way I see it there are two options as far as rigging a cooler and a fan. The first is the Hi-Tek cooling system that I linked in the OP, it has a built in thermostatic control and should be waaaay more effective than our stock tranny cooler because it is twice as thick and has a fan pulling air through it.

The bypass is very simple.

I agree that a cooling fan is a requirement. The thought of bypassing the radiator and just relying on the stock trans cooler has made me nervous which is why I have not done the bypass yet.

So, the two options would be:

One: Roughly $240 bucks on Amazon
http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=h...ng-system-13-12x9x3-12-with-9-12-diameter-fan

Two: Roughly $140 if sourced from Amazon or Summit Racing
(This set up would most likely require that you add all this in ADDITION to the stock cooler as the additional cooler is only 3/4" thick where the one listed above is 3" thick)
New Cooler - http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=automatic-transmission-supercooler-13000-btu-rated-11x7-12x34
Fan - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003N8J6A6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=AQ5LQTIPUCN8K
Thermostatic control - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A8MWL2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ASV771H7R7BLW

Now, my goal was to remove the stock transmission cooler and put that Hi-Tek cooler in it's place. By my way of thinking this would be effective enough to keep the transmission fluid pretty close to the temps you would see if it was still running through the radiator. I am hoping someone with some knowledge on the cooling properties of radiators could weigh in on that assumption.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think in all honesty at this point that I'm going to try this out. I have called B&M and explained what I'm thinking about doing and the guy made it clear he took no responsibility but he did think it would work pretty well. I'll have the B&M trans temp gauge so if this set up isnt working I should be able to tell pretty quickly due to seeing high trans fluid temps.

If it doesnt work I'll probably still leave this set up but add another small cooler into the line somewhere.

I'm still looking for any opinions though, silverflash, dont think I dont appreciate your input, I'd like to hear anything that people have to say about this before I do it. I figure somewhere along the line someone has to have tried this set up before. I've made it all make sense in my mind but my knowledge is limited so if someone thinks this really wont be enough cooling to keep trans temps down etc then I'd like to hear about it.
 

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I added a B&M Cooler, Part#: 70264, 14,000 BTU, below the Stock Unit, Bypassed the Radiator section, and BullyDog shows Trans temps around 160 in my 2006 while driving in traffic in 100+ degrees. The one you're going to use looks like it will handle the Cooling no problem, but Mounting will be more involved. I like the Non-fan Units, cause they're 3/4" thick and easy to mount.
Pics of how I mounted mine...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ya, I actually like your set up alot because it's not stacking two coolers behind eachother. Your set up was my other option.

The only key part that I liked about what I was thinking about doing was that I would completely remove the stock trans cooler and replace it with the 3" thick one with the fan. That way mounting and all should be very simple, the issue is I dont know if it will do well enough by itself to keep the transmission cool. (cool being a relative term haha)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just re-read your post, do you think the 3" thick one I posted will handle the cooling by itself without the stock cooler in the line anymore? Wasnt sure if you meant that or just that it should do well in addition to the stock cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Score, found someone that ran this set up on clubfrontier.
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/...nal-tranny-cooler-w-b-m-hi-tek-70297-a-71922/

He also has the bullydog readings to show a roughly 30* drop in temperature with this installed and that was with the bypass. He was running around 204 and with this installed IN PLACE OF the stock cooler, he dropped to 174 degrees. This is pretty much all the proof I need at this point for me to test this out.

I will be buying this by the end of the week and hopefully getting it installed as soon as possible. I dont think I'll even wait for the 80k mile coverage to run out, I'd rather put in a system that works and put the concerns behind me. I'll keep this thread updated with what I'm doing.
 

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Just re-read your post, do you think the 3" thick one I posted will handle the cooling by itself without the stock cooler in the line anymore? Wasnt sure if you meant that or just that it should do well in addition to the stock cooler.
I was saying it will be fine in place of the stock cooler. The fan really helps concentrate a strong air flow across the surface of the cooler, and with proof from the pathy install, you'll be good to go!

Yeah, I like mine cause now I have a trans cooler that is almost half the size of the engine radiator. And havin them directly in the airflow works great. Post up some pics when you get it done, really looking forward to see how it fits!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Will do, this will probably take me a couple weeks to get finished because I am going to gather up some other parts I want, may change the thermostat and a few other things so it wont happen right away but definitely, as soon as i have this figured out I'll post a parts list and then once I have it done I'll put up a how-to.
 

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Alright, I found all the parts I'll need to make this install work. Obviously the bypass will still be the bypass.

I'm going to flush the lines that used to run ATF through the radiator and then cap them up and no longer think about them.

From there, the hard lines that come out/in to the transmission are 5/16" so I'm going to be installing an adapter that has a 5/16" compression fitting on one end and converts to a 3/8" barb. I'll pull the OEM 5/16" hoses that run up to the tranny cooler as well as yank the OEM tranny cooler out of there.

I'm going to use some small "L" brackets to mount the Hi-Tek cooler in place. I found some 90* adapters that will bring the 1/2" NPT connectors on the cooler down to 3/8" barbs. From there I'll just plumb new 3/8" hose from the above mentioned 5/16" adapters up to the cooler. It should take between 6-10 feet, not positive how much yet though.

Lastly I'll wire up that fan with a 15A inline fuse and it'll be good to go.

The only other thing I'm going to do, since I want to be able to monitor my temperature is install a temp gauge. B&M makes a nice one with a 5/16" "T" that has compression fittings on each end. I'll splice that into the OEM transmission hard lines and plumb the wiring for that and it should be all set.

All parts should be ordered this weekend. Hopefully within a couple weeks I'll have it installed and I can put up a full How-To: with a bunch of pictures and fun stuff like that.
 

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I picked up a transmission cooler today, and asked the guy behind the counter about extra hose to orient the unit. He said the unit can be mounted in any orientation, the hose inlets don't have to be on the top... so I'm going to run the new lines up under the radiator and locate the second cooler under the original, (but leave the original cooler in place). I'm using "tee" connectors so the two cooler are in parallel, not in series with each other. That way I will have less pressure loss and the fluid will be flowing slower through each cooler (same flow divided between two coolers), so it should be more effective.
 
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