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I'll weigh mine when I get home just to see what it is. I only put relatively light stuff up there (sleeping bags and pads, tent, jackets, boots etc) anything heavy finds a home somewhere else. What scratches the cargo area on mine is the legs with the brackets that bolt intto the cargo slots. The whole rack is heavy enough that it's difficult to maneuver in/out while keeping the weight off the legs.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I'll weigh mine when I get home just to see what it is. I only put relatively light stuff up there (sleeping bags and pads, tent, jackets, boots etc) anything heavy finds a home somewhere else. What scratches the cargo area on mine is the legs with the brackets that bolt intto the cargo slots. The whole rack is heavy enough that it's difficult to maneuver in/out while keeping the weight off the legs.
Ahh, the feet, gotcha. The feet on my rack have those plastic blanking caps I talked about in the first post. I don't have any problems with scratching, they slide across the plastic floor.
 

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Looks like I'm going to be doing this. I went in to HF with my $44.99 "Super Coupon" in hand only to see they were on sale for $39.99 for this weekend only. Score!
I do have a question for the OP though about the chair used to source the 3/4" tubing. Was your chair some oversize style? The dimensions you posted about the leg lengths don't seem possible from a standard size chair. Did you somehow straighten them out? I made an initial sourcing run into Ace Hardware and their pricing for 3/4" tubing plus angle brackets would be more than I paid for the rack itself. I'll be doing more sourcing research, but am curious to know more about that donor chair?
 

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For you guys adding floors to your interior racks and sourcing square tube for legs, etc.:

Go to your local metal supply house and look in the remnants section. You will likely find exactly what you need and it will cost significantly less than at Ace Hardware or Home Depot.

My local metal supply prices the materials in the remnants section by the pound. My last trip I was able to buy a 32 x 48 piece of aluminum diamond plate for $10 and they cut it to the finished size I needed for only $2 more.
 

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For you guys adding floors to your interior racks and sourcing square tube for legs, etc.:

Go to your local metal supply house and look in the remnants section. You will likely find exactly what you need and it will cost significantly less than at Ace Hardware or Home Depot.

My local metal supply prices the materials in the remnants section by the pound. My last trip I was able to buy a 32 x 48 piece of aluminum diamond plate for $10 and they cut it to the finished size I needed for only $2 more.
Dang that's crazy good for diamond plate

Sent from my SM-S906L using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Looks like I'm going to be doing this. I went in to HF with my $44.99 "Super Coupon" in hand only to see they were on sale for $39.99 for this weekend only. Score!
I do have a question for the OP though about the chair used to source the 3/4" tubing. Was your chair some oversize style? The dimensions you posted about the leg lengths don't seem possible from a standard size chair. Did you somehow straighten them out? I made an initial sourcing run into Ace Hardware and their pricing for 3/4" tubing plus angle brackets would be more than I paid for the rack itself. I'll be doing more sourcing research, but am curious to know more about that donor chair?
After getting into work this morning I realized I'd taken a picture of the wrong style chair I'd sourced the tubing from. I work at a machine shop and a couple of different style office chairs had already been cut up before I sourced the tubing to make the rack legs. I didn't realize I used the tubing from chairs with arms built in, which make the legs long enough to use for this project. I've corrected the first post to show the right chair.
 

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Is there any benefit to going with this version which has legs as opposed to the version that uses the cargo cover slots? I Think I would prefer the cargo cover slots, as it allows for rotation up (not sure how useful that is...) and more importantly you don't have legs chewing up floor space if you anchor it by the hatch in a similar fashion.

These skinny 4 legged things just don't look all too sturdy to me and the can't be much stronger than the other version.

Garvin Rack with legs


RockyMtnX - not exactly what I was saying but same front anchor point
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Is there any benefit to going with this version which has legs as opposed to the version that uses the cargo cover slots? I Think I would prefer the cargo cover slots, as it allows for rotation up (not sure how useful that is...) and more importantly you don't have legs chewing up floor space if you anchor it by the hatch in a similar fashion.

These skinny 4 legged things just don't look all too sturdy to me and the can't be much stronger than the other version.
I only have experience with the rack I made. The legs don't look strong, but when it's bolted down there's no movement. I can rock the entire X back and forth with the rack. I like the legs because I can pile my tools, tie down straps, ball mounts etc on the outside of the legs, leaving me access to the storage compartment and it forces me not to have that area become a big mess like I always had in my Cherokee.
 

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I only have experience with the rack I made. The legs don't look strong, but when it's bolted down there's no movement. I can rock the entire X back and forth with the rack. I like the legs because I can pile my tools, tie down straps, ball mounts etc on the outside of the legs, leaving me access to the storage compartment and it forces me not to have that area become a big mess like I always had in my Cherokee.
Interesting point. You're saying that the primary disadvantage that I saw is actually an advantage.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Interesting point. You're saying that the primary disadvantage that I saw is actually an advantage.
For me it is. This is how it happens to look today.

 

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The legs are more than strong enough for anything we would use them for and they don't move around (so far at least). If you think about it, the original one in this how to is from an old steel chair. Those would have been meant to hold up 200+ and withstand use over a long period of time.

I used 3/4" steel heavy gauge weldable square tubes from Home Depot. I don't have a weight rating on them but if the harbor freight rack can supposedly support 500 lbs, I would imagine the square tubing would pretty easily support a few hundred pounds too.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Got mine done today. Went a slightly different route on the brackets though, and used the tie downs. Thanks for posting this, I'm going to get a lot of use out of it.
Great to see folks making this their own,
thanks for sharing your version ?

I'd be afraid threaded end of the bolts that hold on the angle iron would snag on me or my stuff. An acorn nut would cap it nicely.
 

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Yeah, I wasn't really thinking about that when I bought the bolts. Was planning on replacing them with shorter ones. Hadn't thought of acorn nuts though, those are definitely an option.
 

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