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My Driver's Side Window has been running slower and slower, until it's stopped. There are two 'moving' parts the Window Regulator and the Motor. The Regulator was $30.05 from eBay from AM-Autoparts. The Motor was $60.50. So I swapped the Regulator to see if that was the problem.

This 'How-to' will also help someone trying to change out their front Speakers.

You'll need the following Tools.


Tools Added:
I recommend a 10mm Magnet Tip Driver - Used on a Screwdriver/Nutdriver or a Impact - Magnet Tip made this job fast and easy and never dropped a Bolt/Screw. There was;

3 -Total Bolts to remove the Door Panel.
6 -Total to remove Window Regulator
3 -To remove Motor from Door Panel Sheet Metal
First empty the Door Pocket of your Fire Extinguisher, Plastic Frogs and Turtles, Flashlight, Water Bottle, and Survival Kit.


Pull the Soft Foam Pad off from the Window by grasping it from the Handle area and pulling back and upwards.


Added this Picture:

Next do the same for the Forward Pad and Window Controls. Pull upwards and push forward from the Handle area. The Arrows show the Clips you're tying to overcome.


Disconnect the Window Controls by pushing the Tab down towards the Body of the Jack.


Next remove the Door Latch Trip starting with the Rear Half. Insert a Flat Blade Screwdriver and pry upwards where the Arrows point.


Now for the forward part of the trip. Do the same pry motion with the Screwdriver where the Aarrows point.


I used my Middle Finger - All that practice when I see FJ's really made my Middle Finger strong:

Next remove the Phillips and 10 mm Bolts holding the Handle in place.


No need to remove the Two Middle Phillips - Actually found that all you need to remove is the Two Outside Ones. removing the Handle is not needed. Its actually easier to lift the Door Panel and move it around the Garage if the Handle stays in place. So only really need to remove are the Two 10mm Hex Outside Ones.
Next pry the Door Skin off the Door Frame. I started in the lower righthand side running a Long Screwdriver around the edge popping each Plastic Spring Clip one at a time.


I used a cheap HF Plastic Trim Pry Tool and it worked perfectly:

When you're done lift the Skin upwards and off the Door.


Set the Skin aside. Note that all the White Plastic Spring Clips are centered in their holes. Sometimes these things will slip out or loose.


The inside of the Door looks like this. The front Speakers are 6x9 and are a Piece-of-cake to swap out.


Removed the Door Handle Mounts with a 10 mm Socket.


I didn't remove the Handle Metal Mounts or the Liner, I did the following:


This allowed me to only lift up the bottom portion of the White Moisture Barrier Foam and not have to remove it all. I then went back with Black RTV and Sealed the bottom edge and my Flap back shut - Typical Black RTV Silicone
Once those are removed you can peel the White Foam Liner off. It helps if the Door is a bit Warm to make the Black Adhesive loose. Carefully peel the Liner off a few inches at a time following the edge and around the Door Latch.


Next remove the Plug from the Power Window Motor. Use a Flat Bladed Screwdriver to press downwards on the Latch.


Temporarily connect Window Control back to the Plug and run the Window down until the two Window Bolts are visible. Remove the two 10 mm Bolts.


Life the Window up and out of the way. Tape it into place with a few pieces of Duct Tape.


Now Unbolt the Motor removing the Three 10 mm Bolts.


Remove the Four 10 mm Bolts that hold the Track in place.


The Power Window Regulator can now be pulled loose.


Here's the old and new Regulator side-by-side.


The Motor is held in place with Three Phillips Screws. I needed a bit of Oil to convince them to come loose.


The Motor is transferred to the new Regulator and run this Tread backwards.


For me the punchline was the Regulator was good ... and I need a new Motor.

Stressing ... here's a "Pretty Flower".

 
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good how to write up. Did this last week the same way. Only advice would be to plug the new motor into the switches before taking the window out to 1) make sure the motor was in fact the issue and 2) make sure the new motor you purchased actually works.
 

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Good write up. You don't have to remove the handle completely, just the two 10mm screws at the end.

And if the window is stuck up, as mine was, getting at the two bolts holding the glass is a pain!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
$60 and an hour later everything is fixed.

The motor was the problem. I had taken it out and ran it on my bench with a 12 VDC power supply without issue but apparently it no longer had enough torque to lift the window. Fells good to be able to roll the window up and down again.
 

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you guys are a wealth of information- I don't see how even I could mess it up with all these great how-to's and all the pics- thanks a lot!!
 

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My window began to get stuck as well. It will go down if I hit the auto down and then thump the door with my elbow. Going up is a different story. I have to push up on the glass with my hand while hitting the switch. My car had been broken into 2 years ago and that window was smashed. If the motor technically "works" (even tho struggling), would it be worth replacing these parts or would you guys recommend taking apart and trying to fix?
 

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My window began to get stuck as well. It will go down if I hit the auto down and then thump the door with my elbow. Going up is a different story. I have to push up on the glass with my hand while hitting the switch. My car had been broken into 2 years ago and that window was smashed. If the motor technically "works" (even tho struggling), would it be worth replacing these parts or would you guys recommend taking apart and trying to fix?
Those were my symptoms exactly (but rear window on the other side broken into during a burglary). The motor is a sealed unit. I would recommend replacing the whole thing as detailed. It puts a grin on face as I watch the window open and close with such speed now.
 

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Does anyone know where i can buy those plastic pins for the door interior?
Courtesy Nissan sells everything on-line. If you can't science out the part number in their drawings send them an email and give them a couple of days to respond. They found the part number for the door gasket seal and I replaced the driver's side years ago.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/
 

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Thanks for taking the time to do this. It helps. Especially when other posts elsewhere are missing pictures...
 

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How's this combo working out for you so far? I would just rather replace everything at once as well. My window is sluggish, sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Thanks!

Good description on how to do this. There is already another description here: http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26631

I just changed mine out last week using this motor/regulator combo from Amazon. $55 for the whole combo, and I didn't have to mess with detaching the motor from the regulator. www.amazon.com/Dorman-741-348-Nissan-Driver-Regulator/dp/B00412YT8W/ref=phovid-20?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1379141349&sr=1-1&keywords=741-348+regulator
 

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How's this combo working out for you so far? I would just rather replace everything at once as well. My window is sluggish, sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Thanks!
So far so good - the driver's side is blazing fast compared to the old passenger's side.

When the motor sticks just pop the door a few times with a closed fist and keep on praying that it's going to open or close for you!

:)
 

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I've since replace the whole mechanism and it works flawlessly. I'm really happy with it, and the price as well. Thanks for the help!

So far so good - the driver's side is blazing fast compared to the old passenger's side.

When the motor sticks just pop the door a few times with a closed fist and keep on praying that it's going to open or close for you!

:)
 

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Awesome:headbang:

new regulator + motor (fleabay) $45
From start to finish 40 min

One thing....lower the window (to remove screws) before unplug the motor.

:cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:
 

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Im bringing my quotes over from the other thread on - window motor replacement to make everyone aware that there is a possiblity of not having to replace the window motor at all, but rather just cleaning it.

-J

So - i found this - makes sense and all the comments from others say it works - he explains how to fix the sluggish or inoperable window motor with out having to replace it. its more plausible that many people have replaced the part when all they needed to do is clean it!

See video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9f2rXt02cpY

If you have a window motor thats in-op or sluggish and on its way out, you may want to try this first before you go out and buy another motor...given that its so simple to access the motor and check, its not like its a long dis-assembly to get to it.

if you pause the video at the 0:12 second mark you can see its our part number - part #80731-EA005 - that and the fact he mentions its from a front door of a Nissan Frontier.



-J
I did this today and it worked perfectly....cleaned my motor and it works like new.
entire job took like 25 min max because i did some other mods at the time as well. ill post a thread later.

-J
 

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Next, I removed the 3 screws that hold the motor cover and then cleaned the motor free of all its built up carbon black gunk. My motor works like new - its fast…makes me mad, cause the drivers side was the problem side, now that its fixed, I see how much slower the passenger side has actually become.
So looks like ill do this on the passenger side too.




Before - all dirty, u can see all the carbon build up that was causing low current on the motor contacts

After - semi clean- i went back with a q-tip and cleaned more

No flowers from me….

-J
 

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