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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a really simple and cheap idea to make a rack to strap a canoe, ladder, lumber, whatever, to the X without hitting the wet box. The wood I used was recycled packaging to the shop and I'm still modifying it after each use so I haven't de-uglied it with some paint yet. Believe me, I know it's ugly right now, I'm just sharing the basic idea :) I'll be cutting the width a lot closer to the width of the stock tubes. I left it wider to try first since my canoe is nearly 4' wide in the middle.

The idea is to clamp wood above and below the stock tubes. I used two 6" long 1/4"-20 bolts, two 1/4" fender washers and two 1/4"-20 t-nuts from Ace Hardware for each rack. In the front I used landscaping timber to get the height to make sure the curve of the canoe wouldn't hit the wet box. In the back I clamped to my aluminum roof rack so I could get further back towards the hatch and make it easier to get the nose of the 120# canoe onto the rack without hitting the X. Across the top of the rear rack I put a scrap piece of 1/4" UHMW so the canoe would slide easy on the rear rack. UHMW is what those thicker white cutting boards are usually made out of. I'll be modifying that too after using it to make it a bit less ugly.










The small pieces of wood in the middle are just for locating the wood rack on my aluminum rack.




This is the first version of the rack. The rear rack was just wood and the boat was very hard to slide on to the X. I tried tying the wood to the aluminum rack with rope. It worked but was much more a of pita to put on and off. Clamping to the tubing means the wood rack doesn't move at all putting on a load or driving around without anything on the roof.



Before that I just used two landscaping timbers and it worked fine with a lighter canoe I could lay on top, but I worried if the ropes loosened I could end up with a landscaping timber projectile coming off my roof.

 

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Looks like it will work good.. and stable.
nice work. Cutting boards are cheap to find.
 

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Very nice. That is pretty similar to what I was thinking except I'll just do the corners instead of the wood all the way across (the material across the center of the rack theoretically wouldn't be touched).

I assume the canoe slides easily on that material?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Very nice. That is pretty similar to what I was thinking except I'll just do the corners instead of the wood all the way across (the material across the center of the rack theoretically wouldn't be touched).

I assume the canoe slides easily on that material?
Thanks. Yes, the UHMW makes the heavy canoe slide much easier vs sliding on plain wood. I found with the wood/UHMW going the whole way across I could put the nose of the canoe in the middle of the rack and then go lift the rear and push it on to the roof all by myself. It's actually slippy enough I had to add those pieces on the side to make sure it didn't slip off the side when I was putting it on. I used to do this on the Cherokee back in the day but the X's height and my lack of it made it impossible to do by myself and the Mrs isn't always available to help lift that heavy sucker when getting ready for a trip.
 

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Thanks. Yes, the UHMW makes the heavy canoe slide much easier vs sliding on plain wood. I found with the wood/UHMW going the whole way across I could put the nose of the canoe in the middle of the rack and then go lift the rear and push it on to the roof all by myself. It's actually slippy enough I had to add those pieces on the side to make sure it didn't slip off the side when I was putting it on. I used to do this on the Cherokee back in the day but the X's height and my lack of it made it impossible to do by myself and the Mrs isn't always available to help lift that heavy sucker when getting ready for a trip.
Good to know. I forgot that I will need to slide the narrower part of the canoe for a bit before it widens up.

And when you are traveling, canoe doesn't slide around too much on the UHMW? Or do you put anything between it and the canoe when moving?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Good to know. I forgot that I will need to slide the narrower part of the canoe for a bit before it widens up.

And when you are traveling, canoe doesn't slide around too much on the UHMW? Or do you put anything between it and the canoe when moving?
The canoe is solid, doesn't move at all tied down. It's still hard pulling it across the wood on the front rack, debating putting a strip of UHMW across it too but I worry a little it will make the canoe more prone to moving. Really though, with tying it down with an alpine butterfly loop and a truckers hitch's 3:1 mechanical advantage the canoe is really, really tight on the roof.
 
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