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Change Timing Chain How-to Preliminaries;
Materials:
[table="head"]Qty | Parts Needed | Comment
1 | Tube High Temp RTV |
3 | Gallons of Coolant | won’t use it all
7 | Quarts of Oil |
1 | Oil Filter |
1 | Roll of Wide Masking Tape |
1 | Clean Cotton Towel |
1 | Black Permanent Marker |
[/table]
Parts:
[table="head"]Part | QTY | Part Number
Secondary Timing Chains | 2 | 13028-ZK01C
Tensioner | 2 | 13097-ZK01C
O-Ring | 2 | 15066-ZL80A
O-Ring | 2 | 15066-5E510
O-Ring | 1 | 15066-31U03
O-Ring | 1 | 15066-31U02
Main Seal | 1 | 13510-7Y000
[/table]
Addition Parts (Optional):
Drive Belt
Driver Belt Tensioner
Water Pump
Spark Plugs
Tools Needed:
1/4 Drive Metric Sockets 8mm – 12mm
3/8 Drive Metric Sockets 10mm – 19mm
1/2 Drive Metric Sockets 14mm – 22mm
Metric Wrenches
Needle Nose Pliers
Channel Lock Pliers
Flathead Screwdrivers
Philips Screwdrivers
Drift Pins
Soft Blow Hammers
Torque Wrench
Impact Wrench
Pry Bars
Cheater Bars
Breaker Bars
Impact Wrench
Punch Set
Hose Clamps
And of Course - Friends and Beer are Always Needed!
Be sure before you start to have all Parts and Tools needed. Also be sure to look over the Factory Service Manual (FSM) Engine Mechanical (EM) Section.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/xterra/2007_Xterra/em.pdf
For example be sure to look at your specific year for any changes between years.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/xterra/
STEP 1:
Start with a cold Engine.
If your Xterra is a Manual 4x4, put in 6th Gear and 4Lo
If your Xterra is a Manual 2x4, put in 6th Gear
If your Xterra is an Automatic 4x4, put into 4Lo
If your Xterra is an Automatic 2x4, you will need to either open up the Access Panel to Flywheel in the picture below to put a the biggest Flathead Screwdriver you can fit in the Flywheel or if you have the special Nissan Flywheel Stopper you can use that to hold your Engine from moving.
Disconnect and remove the Battery.
Remove any Skid Plates that will prevent access to the Transmission, Oil Pan and Radiator.
Disconnect any Electrical connection that lead to the Front Bumper
Remove Front Bumper for easier access to the Engine.
Drain Oil
Drain Coolant
STEP 2:
Remove the Radiator Shroud by removing the three (3) screws at the top of the Radiator.
Then disconnect the connectors to the Electric Fan.
Remove the Electric Fan Assembly by push the Shroud back enough to make room for the Electric Fan to come out the top, (It should just pull straight up).
After the Electric Fan is out, remove the Fan Shroud, (this one is kind of hard).
STEP 3:
With the Drive Belt still attached loose the nuts on the Fan Pulley.
Once the Fan Pulley nuts are loose, remove the Belt Tensioner with the single bolt in the middle of it.
Remove the Drive Belt, (if you are replacing the Belt Tensioner and Drive Belt, they can be tossed, if not set aside in safe place).
STEP 4:
Disconnect and remove the Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses, (make sure to have a Bucket underneath so the remaining fluid does get everywhere).
Disconnect the Coolant Hose that run into the Engine, Oil Filter Housing and Throttle Body.
STEP 5:
With all Hoses disconnected, start disconnecting the Electrical connections on the Throttle Body, Air Intake, Mass Air Flow Sensor.
Remove any Breather Hoses connected to your Air Intake.
Take off your Intake and Tape up the opening with Masking Tape to prevent anything falling into the Engine.
STEP 6:
Move any loose Hoses that are in front of the Engine off to either side of the motor to gain easier access to the front Timing Case Cover.
Next is to remove the Bracket that the Belt Tensioner and Fan were attached to, (be sure to keep the four (4) bolts with the bracket).
After the Bracket is off, next is to remove the Alternator, Power Steering Pump, and Air Conditioning Pump from the Motor, (they do not need to be disconnected from their hoses, they just need to be pushed off to the sides to have clear access to the front Timing Chain Case).
Materials:
[table="head"]Qty | Parts Needed | Comment
1 | Tube High Temp RTV |
3 | Gallons of Coolant | won’t use it all
7 | Quarts of Oil |
1 | Oil Filter |
1 | Roll of Wide Masking Tape |
1 | Clean Cotton Towel |
1 | Black Permanent Marker |
[/table]
Parts:
[table="head"]Part | QTY | Part Number
Secondary Timing Chains | 2 | 13028-ZK01C
Tensioner | 2 | 13097-ZK01C
O-Ring | 2 | 15066-ZL80A
O-Ring | 2 | 15066-5E510
O-Ring | 1 | 15066-31U03
O-Ring | 1 | 15066-31U02
Main Seal | 1 | 13510-7Y000
[/table]
Addition Parts (Optional):
Drive Belt
Driver Belt Tensioner
Water Pump
Spark Plugs
Tools Needed:
1/4 Drive Metric Sockets 8mm – 12mm
3/8 Drive Metric Sockets 10mm – 19mm
1/2 Drive Metric Sockets 14mm – 22mm
Metric Wrenches
Needle Nose Pliers
Channel Lock Pliers
Flathead Screwdrivers
Philips Screwdrivers
Drift Pins
Soft Blow Hammers
Torque Wrench
Impact Wrench
Pry Bars
Cheater Bars
Breaker Bars
Impact Wrench
Punch Set
Hose Clamps
And of Course - Friends and Beer are Always Needed!
Be sure before you start to have all Parts and Tools needed. Also be sure to look over the Factory Service Manual (FSM) Engine Mechanical (EM) Section.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/xterra/2007_Xterra/em.pdf
For example be sure to look at your specific year for any changes between years.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/xterra/
STEP 1:
Start with a cold Engine.
If your Xterra is a Manual 4x4, put in 6th Gear and 4Lo
If your Xterra is a Manual 2x4, put in 6th Gear
If your Xterra is an Automatic 4x4, put into 4Lo
If your Xterra is an Automatic 2x4, you will need to either open up the Access Panel to Flywheel in the picture below to put a the biggest Flathead Screwdriver you can fit in the Flywheel or if you have the special Nissan Flywheel Stopper you can use that to hold your Engine from moving.
Disconnect and remove the Battery.
Remove any Skid Plates that will prevent access to the Transmission, Oil Pan and Radiator.
Disconnect any Electrical connection that lead to the Front Bumper
Remove Front Bumper for easier access to the Engine.
Drain Oil
Drain Coolant
STEP 2:
Remove the Radiator Shroud by removing the three (3) screws at the top of the Radiator.
Then disconnect the connectors to the Electric Fan.
Remove the Electric Fan Assembly by push the Shroud back enough to make room for the Electric Fan to come out the top, (It should just pull straight up).
After the Electric Fan is out, remove the Fan Shroud, (this one is kind of hard).
STEP 3:
With the Drive Belt still attached loose the nuts on the Fan Pulley.
Once the Fan Pulley nuts are loose, remove the Belt Tensioner with the single bolt in the middle of it.
Remove the Drive Belt, (if you are replacing the Belt Tensioner and Drive Belt, they can be tossed, if not set aside in safe place).
STEP 4:
Disconnect and remove the Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses, (make sure to have a Bucket underneath so the remaining fluid does get everywhere).
Disconnect the Coolant Hose that run into the Engine, Oil Filter Housing and Throttle Body.
STEP 5:
With all Hoses disconnected, start disconnecting the Electrical connections on the Throttle Body, Air Intake, Mass Air Flow Sensor.
Remove any Breather Hoses connected to your Air Intake.
Take off your Intake and Tape up the opening with Masking Tape to prevent anything falling into the Engine.
STEP 6:
Move any loose Hoses that are in front of the Engine off to either side of the motor to gain easier access to the front Timing Case Cover.
Next is to remove the Bracket that the Belt Tensioner and Fan were attached to, (be sure to keep the four (4) bolts with the bracket).
After the Bracket is off, next is to remove the Alternator, Power Steering Pump, and Air Conditioning Pump from the Motor, (they do not need to be disconnected from their hoses, they just need to be pushed off to the sides to have clear access to the front Timing Chain Case).