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**Disclaimer... A couple of the steps may be slightly different. I did this on a Frontier, but I'd imagine it's the same**

TOOLS REQUIRED:
*Flat-head Screwdriver
*Pliers or Channel Locks, (for Hose Clamps)
*10mm Socket w/Short Extension

ESTIMATED TIME:
*Less than 2 hours

OTHER PARTS:
*New Gasket is Optional, but not necessary
*~1 Gallon of Coolant

STEP 1: Order the Thermostat from a Nissan Dealership. It's the only place that supplies them. You'll see why when you look at the picture. The Thermostat and Housing are one Assembly. Luckily, I got mine from a buddy at the Parts Department for $15.



STEP 2: Take the Rear Engine Cover off, (you know the one that says V6). Its got 2 x 10mm bolts in the front, and the rest snaps on. After you take the bolts out just pull up. You won't break it. Then remove the 2 x 10mm bolts holding the front Cover/Intake Tube on. Disconnect the MAF Sensor and undo the Hose Clamp by the Throttle Body. Now unhook the top of the Air Box and pull the whole Intake Tube off and set it aside.

(YES - I DID PRESSURE WASH THE MOTOR BEFORE I DID THIS... THIS IS CLEAN COMPARED TO WHAT IT WAS!)

Disconnect the Vacuum Line seen in 2nd picture, below:




STEP 3: With all of that mess out of the way, you can see the Thermostat Housing on the lower Drivers-side of the Motor, directly in the front. It's connected to the lower Radiator Hose if that helps you find it:


Be sure the Engine is Cool and the Radiator isn't Pressurized. Take the caps off:


You can now pull the Hoses off the Thermostat Housing, (there are 2):



STEP 4: Remove the 3 x 10mm bolts holding the Thermostat Housing on. Set it aside, throw it away or use it as a Paperweight... Or put it on a Chain and walk around like Flavor Flav:



Be careful because the Gasket will probably still be on the Motor. It is very brittle. Also put a Bucket or something under the Truck... Coolant is gonna go everywhere:


STEP 5: Take the old Gasket and new Thermostat and put them on the Truck. I put a bolt through to help aline the two together as I put it on. Tighten all 3 x bolts and reconnect the Hoses. Then Hook everything else back up. Leave the Cap off the Radiator though, because you will have to Refill. When it gets to the top, crank the Truck with the Heater 'ON', and wait until the Coolant starts to overflow. Then you can Cap it off and check everything for leaks.
 

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Sorry to bump an REALLY old thread, but how to you get to the thermostat with out taking off the fan housing? It doesn't seem to be a lot of room there with it on.
I am about to do this, but decided to wait untill I buy a new radiator since I'll have to take off the fan housing, but If I don't need to take the housing off I'll just replace the thermostat now since I have it at home.
 

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wicked, I need to do this...looks very simple.
I would drain your radiator via the drain plug first, not just take off the hose and let fluid go everywhere. I guess I'll take a look again and try to change the thermo without taking the fan housing out.
 
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you're welcome haha :geek:
 

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I think you'd want to use a new gasket too.
 

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Same here. I kept my old gasket on and saved the new one for a spare. Did you "burp" your radiator? A few guys here said I should and it works. I was running hot after replacing the thermo then changed caps and it was fine. Took it to jiffy lube and it started running hot again. I "burped" the radiator and it has been fine since.
 

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When you say burp do you mean purge from that T-fitting by the firewall? I will do this right now. Also, where are you running the spring cap? Seal cap?
non-spring goes on radiator and the spring goes on the resivour.

The way I burped it was fill the radiator with the truck off, once filled to the top I turned the truck on. Have a rag ready cause iy started to overflow. I then turned the heater on high and let the car run for a bit.

It was still over flowing so I got the RPMs up to 2,000 and eventually it all got sucked down. I know people posted other ways to do it. I'll post the link. brb
 

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I can't find it.

Just make sure the engine is cold, fill radiator (till it comes to the top) and resivour (half way between min and max), run your truck with the radiator cap off, turn the heater on high, Rev your engine to a steady 2,000 RPM for a few seconds. It might take a while because you need your thermo to open up so all the air bubbles can come out. Hope this helps. I suck at explaining things.

Oh and have a rag handy to catch the overflow from your radiator. My radiator started to overflow as soon as I started it. Not a lot, but you'll want to put a rag around the outside of the hole.
 
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Snoborderphx, unless the changed the system in 2012, the coolant reservoir IS pressurized and should have the cap with the spring. The radiator should have the simple cap, leaving the coolant fluid free to pass to and from the reservoir.
 

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I just wanted to clarify that this is not correct. The spring goes on the radiator, to keep the whole system pressurized, and the non-spring goes on the reservoir.
Look again at the overflow tank. If you do it as you suggest, the tank will be open to the atmosphere.
 

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After reading all about which cap goes where and the confusion it can create, I went out to my 2011 and looked at them.
Each is labeled for where it should be. Granted the writing is rather small but one has Radiator and the other has Reservoir on it.
 
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