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Ok people, I hope I put this where you want it. It is where I want it.

Before you begin, make sure you have 3 Qts of Gear oil, and the washers, (Nissan won't have em, NAPA can match em up.) and be sure you have the tools to deal with the plugs, I have every tool in the book and this one had me at the store 1st time I did it. OR people are in better luck, you just need a Square drive. C200's use 2 different Allen's.

1st, the factory fluid is pretty good stuff, 2nd, don't waste too much time changing your Front diff fluid and certainly don't go too far beyond the 1st change interval of 30K. This should give you an idea what you are hiding in there, BOTH looked like this! Front was worse,


I'll say this is normal for a first time change, but I did not like it, especially since the fluid the factory uses is good stuff. This is junk wiped off plug with a sterile medical tissue.


Got your attention? Bad things going on in there!
This is where you start, it is front Diff Drain plug.


This is how I drain oil, I am using a clear zip lock bag so you can see, but leftover Wal Mart shopping bags will work for the thrifty, I like this method because I can take a good look at the oil by using a light shining through the bag and use a magnet overnight. (let you guess)


Time to fill er up. Our X takes weird size Allen's to remove plugs but no size i just grabbed one. Fill and drain are different. D44 Is different from C200 shown later.


Lots of talk about how to fill, that tool is in boat supplies or available from Amsoil, They even make em to fit the drain plug so you can force fluid in on a bad pinion angle. This works fine.


So you get the idea I illustrate for you, Black Rad hose is Diff fill hole, pump goes in new oil and when you pump it fills! Easy stuff!


In action for real!


Put the plug back in, Yea yea yea Use a new washer at $4.50 each, I'd just buy the drain one and RTV the fill one at that price, I did.


Torque to Muzikman's spec. (go look, I did)

As many times as things go wrong, you will never believe what showed up as I was doing the front Diff? Amazing! My Oil! Right on time as I had the Front Diff skid off! Made it easy to do this How to for ya!


Warm up the car, Little Oil flush, and drain, Again I use the zip lock bag, yes the plug falls into it, but i use a magnet to bring it to top of the bag FROM THE OUTSIDE of the bag. (No get oil on magnet)


Oh! There is that zip lock bag in use again keeping oil off my skids and catching that oil filter, You loosen it first by hand and run it off and let er drain! (People have asked me how I do this.) Pictures!


I also clean the surface with brake cleaner where filter rests.


Properly installed New Crush washer, (Don't skip this step) It spins on easy as shown.


Add your New Filter, you don't need that picture, Add in proper oil amount and test for leaks. Button it up for 15K miles if you used Amsoil and abuse your X, 25K if you do not. I love that part! 7 months until I do this again! OH! I covered my Rear, Shrockworks style so now I have to fill it Amsoil style! You use what you want. I use what Pro's use. Severe Gear!
This is Rear Drain, No removing Diff skid! Now that was Think'in!


That Dam Oil Bag again! You guys catching on yet? I have 4 bags now, I know what came out of each and I can see the amount! If it was drained into a pan what can I see? (I do have a pan handy for overflow.


Yech! The rear Junk!


You can kinda see the metal huh?


This is not by the book, but how I do mine, clean, Use some High Temp Silicone and run er in! See if water or rust can get past that!


The rear is not so hard to fill, I use this puppy! It has on, off, a cap at the end, a tube, it measures, and I have no idea where I got it! LOL


Oh! Yea yea yea, I am jacked up too, I do this to get all the fluid in, works perfect, as in it took all that it called for! 1.6 Qts?


To get your capacities and suggested lubes go here:
AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases click on a box like this:


And do your build sheet print it and use whatever Lube you so desire! I'm not selling Amsoil I am buying it! But if you buy it also use my dealer No of ZO 1447837 Or someones dealer number you know! But if you don't use Amsoil, you will have to do it again sooner. Maybe that is your plan.

See ya on the trail, THE END....


MC
 

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Looks good.

BTW, you can get that funnel at just about any auto parts store (they even have it at walmat) (I have the same one). :)

As for the shavings. I don't know how many new vehicles you have done, but that is perfectly normal. It has nothing to do with how good or bad of gear oil they used from the factory, it's caused by the gears breaking in. When you go to change it again, it won't be so bad.

This is why if you install new gears toy run the axles for awhile and then drain and fill the diff with very low miles. It's also the same idea engine builders use.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Me: "I'll say this is normal for a first time change, but I did not like it, especially since the fluid the factory uses is good stuff. This is junk wiped off plug with a sterile medical tissue."

I did mention that this is normal, I have changed a few in my day. I did forget where I got the funnel. The pump is the cool item to have around. You can put a jack ball on the tube and force fluid into about anything.

But I still did not like the difference in junk from the front to the rear, and the rear was at least twice as clean as the font. (Looking through the zip lock bags) PLUS! The front although it has never leaked was about 1 pt low! Yes Jason it was 1 pt low! That's not good.

MC
 

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Move to how-to's and added to the sticky list.
 

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usmc xterra said:
The front although it has never leaked was about 1 pt low! Yes Jason it was 1 pt low! That's not good.

MC
Wow, hmmm...they really need to make diffs easier to check fliud levels on. You know, like a dip stick! ;)

I have not changed mine yet as the front isn't up to 30K yet (it was replaced at 20K). Maybe i'll have to crawl under there and just do it.

That might be the cause of the large amount of metal "paste" you had on the drain plug.
 

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Im gonna be doing this tomorrow since I have access to a lift (makes things much easier) I guess Ill just con the gf into taking me to the parts store. You dont happen to have a recipt with part #'s do ya
 

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who's the idiot at Nissan that made the rear diff fill plug take a 14mm hex key to get it in and out??? I've looked at NAPA, O'Rielly and Sears no one has one over 10mm, which fits the drain plug. Couldn't they make both bolts the same size??? So where to I find a 14mm key? Preferably on a socket end.
 

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Good write-up MC. This is a pretty simple but necessary maintenance project. No reason not to do it at home or on club shop days. You guys have it easy. At least you have drain plugs. :tongue:

After breaking in the gears in my 9", I had to change my lube. I had to pull the 3rd member to fish out the goop. Gah! Back in the day, I took home a chick who's beaver smelled almost as bad as gear lube...but that's a story for another day. Ladies, keep it clean!

Here's a shot of the mess I had to clean out. That third member is about 80 lbs. Oi!





 

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I feel like I should do it at 15k though just to keep all of that gunk from floating around.
 

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Ah...the good 'ol 9" days...I had to pull the pumpkin out of my '69 MACH1 many times!


Rob
 

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Muzikman said:
Not that this belongs here...and maybe I'll move it...but What happened man? You broke it already?!?!?!
Everything is fine.

I just needed to change the lube after breaking in the new ring and pinion. I pulled the 3rd shortly after I got back from Colorado. I inspected the gears and they looked fine. No chips, dings or gouges. Just wanted to get that "break-in" lube out of the pumpkin along with a normal amount of metal that one would expect after breaking in new gears.

It wasn't a very "fun" project. Next time will be easier.
 
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