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Well I combined all the excellent ideas I got from this thread with some hardware I found here:

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-Straps-Tie-Downs/Airline-Straps-Hardware

Ended up looking like this:




Here are the brackets mounted. Note the tape where I marked the spot where the panel mounts to the body. (red X) Also the line to the left is a rib on the back side of the plastic panel. The lower tape marks the line where there is a hole in the metal of the body and nothing for a screw to bite into. Do not go below this.



Here is a shot with a tape measure so you can get an idea of where things are:



One fairly important thing I did find when positioning the lower tie point was that there is a 1/4" space between the plastic and the metal body behind it. That was too much for me so I made 1/4" aluminum spacers with holes drilled to clear the screws and put them behind the plastic to allow the tie down to cinch down tight without pulling the plastic in. You can get into that gap by pulling the rubber weather strip back in that area.

Hope this helps the next person doing this excellent mod.
This is definitely late on the posting, but I'm glad I dug through and found this! I'm putting little aircraft nuances (switches, etc.) and this system is their tie-downs they use in their cargo hold! HA! Great idea! Thank you so much!!!
 

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Hi,

I wanted the move the airline track higher up in the default rails so that it would look a bit nicer and better fit all the fittings.

I bought some flat alu stock at the local Rona (Home Depot like Canadian store):


Without measuring to much cut some spacers out of it and drilled a hole in them:


With the three of them stack it's a pretty tight fit! With a proper amount of cursing and tricks you can get them all in and line up with the holes that you drilled to match the default screw holes:


The OEM screws are to short, so you need something about 4-5mm longer then OEM. They seem to be M6'es. Mine are obviously way to long and that doesn't work for the middle holes (sheet metal behind the hole)

Other problem I had was that the HEX head was to big to screw down in the last hole (closest to the seats). I'll have to hunt for some M6 Allen screws or something.

Pretty happy with the final fit!
 

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Hey Vette, when you put the mounts on the plastic pillar, did you use the screws that came with the mounts?

Got a giftcard, and am ordering today!
No. The included screws are machine screws. You would need to put nuts behind the metal panel and there is not a good way to get in there. I bought some stainless steel sheet metal screws, drilled some undersized pilot holes and screwed them into the panel.
 

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No. The included screws are machine screws. You would need to put nuts behind the metal panel and there is not a good way to get in there. I bought some stainless steel sheet metal screws, drilled some undersized pilot holes and screwed them into the panel.
Okay, does that still hold up to the load limit?

d.coates80 - For some odd reason I can't see your link. It's coming up that there's nothing on the other end of it.
 

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Okay, does that still hold up to the load limit?
Probably not. I just use them to secure a rear cargo net and keep things from shifting around. If I were trying to tie down something heavy I would use a fender washer and nylock nut. Your thinking is correct. The load limit of an anchor is limited by the hardware used and the strength of the material it is attached to. But then again, we are replacing plastic anchors that just snapped in.
 

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No. The included screws are machine screws. You would need to put nuts behind the metal panel and there is not a good way to get in there. I bought some stainless steel sheet metal screws, drilled some undersized pilot holes and screwed them into the panel.
I fixed the link on my previous comment. You mentioned putting a nut behind the sheet metal which was my same dilemma. Check out my how to and see my resolution to that problem.
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I fixed the link on my previous comment. You mentioned putting a nut behind the sheet metal which was my same dilemma. Check out my how to and see my resolution to that problem.
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I did see you solution and posted the link to McMaster Carr. It is an excellent idea, but for really serious loads you still need a fender washer behind it. I plan on getting some of the rivet nuts and the tool. Have not found them locally, so I will have to order some in. For a lot of projects they will be perfect and worth getting some into inventory. Plus they just look so clean when installed.
 

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nabbed the US Cargo Control tie downs and installed them this week inside the factory rails. I'm looking for an alternative bolt on method for mounting the single tie-downs in place of the plastic hooks. I'll probably go to Lowes or something and see what they have soon. Love the look, and thanks again OP for the idea!
 

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I messed up on one side doing the lower tie down. I went to far in ( toward the front of the truck) and ate up all my plastic because the sheet metal has a curve to it causing me to go fully off and making a bigger hole. So i moved the hole more back to hit flat surface and got it good. Any ideas on how to make a clean seal on my hole? I used some super glue to seal it for now. Its maybe a 1/8th " hole right next to the anchor, the anchor covered majority of it.
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The bottom ring



so, for the bottom one, why is it so far back? can it be centered? I heard there was a screw somewhere I needed to make sure to not hit, where is it?
 

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Sooo....to the OP: This, as already stated by everyone, is a terrific idea.

My question is: How'd you go about mounting the fire extinguisher in your original post?
 
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