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Step 1: Deflate a tire down to the perferred deflation pressure. I chose 18 psi.


Step 2: With the lock ring (thin one) and the adjusting cap (big one on top) wound all the way clockwise (down the shaft), screw the tire deflator onto the tire valve stem. Air should not leak out at this point.


Step 3: Loosen the adjustment cap by rotating it counter clockwise slowly until air starts leaking out of the deflator.


Step 4: Immediately tighten the cap down clockwise a bit to stop the air from leaking out and tighten the locking ring by rotating it counter clockwise to contact the adjustment cap.


Be careful that you don't rotate the adjustment cap.


Step 5: Optionally use a bit of lock-lite to put a drop of sealant into the treads of the locking ring.


 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's a dirty bottle of Lock-tite! I've been using that thing for years to lock the rings of my rifle scopes. I think it's time to invest in another bottle.
 

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Thanks for taking the mystery out of those things. I've been looking at them for awhile. Knowing how they work, and that I have access to your great how-to helped me make up my mind. Thanks.
 

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Great write-up But, didn't ALL of you guys get the instructions that came with the deflaters ?
I gave a set away with the last truck,,,,which led me to buying a new set just a few months ago.
( Actually, I forgot them in the glovebox ! )
But, I digress,,,,
Great Write-Up !

Jim B
 

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Yeah, i had the instructions.... but it never hurts to compliment somebodys hard work when posting a write up.... Plus it helps those who dont have them understand how easily they work, just in case they were wondering if they wanted to fork up the cash for them.....

On a side note.... these things are fantastc.... worth every penny!!! I used them in Moab and laughed (internally) at everyone who had to deflate their tires manually.
 

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prod39 said:
Great write-up But, didn't ALL of you guys get the instructions that came with the deflaters ?
I gave a set away with the last truck,,,,which led me to buying a new set just a few months ago.
( Actually, I forgot them in the glovebox ! )
But, I digress,,,,
Great Write-Up !

Jim B
Aren't instructions only for reading after you "F" something up?
 

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Just set my stauns to 18lb, nice write up! I used blue thread lock and also wraped them with electrical tape! Time to go wheel and test them out.
 

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Quick question for those using them (mostly because I'm cheap): Is there any reason why one couldn't get 3 other buddies to go in on the set and then everyone gets one? Takes it from $60 down to $15, no?
 

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I would've had to see one hell of an explanation as to why you couldn't, so thanks for confirming. I agree it's easier, but knowing me I'd probably do the split. If I got a great deal like that I think I'd probably end up giving a few away to those guys I wheel with.
 

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All (7) Photos placed into PB's Purgatory, have been Resurrected for this thread! :thumbup:
 
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@Old Navy, thanks for resurrecting the photos.

Adding something new for 2018:

Anyone know the differences between these products?

Current Amazon prices (all with free shipping for Prime members):

Staun Tire Deflators - $61 https://www.amazon.com/Staun-SCV5-Tire-Deflators/dp/B00QBPBLWY


Coyote Automatic Tire Deflators - $60 https://www.amazon.com/Coyote-Automatic-Tire-Deflators-Pack/dp/B00JJND26I


Sh*ttybilt Tire Deflators - $39.99 (Chinese copy)
https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-2723-Tire-Deflator-Universal/dp/B001CF3JG4


EZ Deflator - $19.95 (appear to be identical to the Sh*ttybilt deflators and the deflators I have)
https://www.amazon.com/EZdeflator-Deflator-Universal-Adjustable-Piece/dp/B011DF61YY


Auto EC Tire Deflators - $18.99 https://www.amazon.com/AutoEC-Tire-Deflator-Universal-Adjustable/dp/B00GAVTRDE


X-BULL Brass Tire Valve Deflators - $5.99 https://www.amazon.com/X-BULL-Brass-Tire-Valve-Deflators/dp/B01N6L6W7Z/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M7XRT182K9FA527VMGVH
 

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I have the Coyote Automatic Tire Deflators - bought from offroad gorilla. They have been good for me. Always within a pound.

The ARB style that removes the valve stem is faster IMO (I have both), but the auto deflators are awful nice to be able to put on and walk away while they are deflating.
 

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Mr Bills,

I can't speak to the specific differences between all of them as I've not had a chance to take them apart or the like. I can say that I had a cheaper set that Terry gave to me when he upgraded to Stauns. I did the same with that set when I upgraded, too. With the cheaper ones, I had more instances where they'd stop well short of the desired PSI. Generally all I had to do was pull out the little valve on the end to get them started again, but it's annoying.

My experience with the Stauns has been great - I set them a few years back and haven't changed that setting since. My only problem has been that I didn't bother to Loctite or otherwise set them at the desired pressure, which means they've lost some of their adjustment over the years. Maybe this year I'll get around to setting them properly (again), marking them so I can tell if any of them go out of adjustment, and then setting it up so the locking ring won't back out.

All of that being said, if you've got OBA, most any of them should work just fine. As long as they don't take you down to zero, you could easily equalize the pressure where you wanted, maybe do a quick top off, etc.
 

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Another bit of info, I’m 99% sure the coyotes are staun II’s. Supposed to be a minor upgrade to staun’s. I can’t validate if it was actually an upgrade because I never owned the original stauns.
 
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