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Oh... I forgot to add: don't forget to adjust the switch above the clutch pedal or you cruise control will cut out at random times.
How-to: Adjust Clutch Throw (6 Speed)
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Well Here is the picture of me completing my very first mod to my X.
I figured I would use the information given so far to write up my own version of the walk through.
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First thing is first TOOLS. Any thing you do in your life is easier when you have the right tools to do the job. For this particular job you need two open ended wrenches: 12mm and 14mm, next you need slip joint or tongue and groove pliers the pair I have are 8in tongue and groove and they are perfect for this job. Also have some sort of marking device so you can figure out how many turns you have done on the shaft.
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Now this method will work with big or small hands. I have big hands and for those of you who say you were able to use two hands you must be one hell of a contortionist. Now the following picture is of the brake linkage but it is nearly the same as the clutch and much easier to see. First thing is mark the bottom of the rod with your marking device. Then loosen the capture nut on the linkage using the 12mm wrench. The yellow arrow is pointing to the brake nut which again is very similar to the clutch.
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The shaft for the clutch is knurled so it can be gripped easily with the tongue and groove pliers. so grab the shaft and pinch and turn. I was able to move about 45degrees at a time. I went about 10 turns and then checked the pedal location. I did as many others did continued until the clutch was about level with the brake pedal and then backing off some giving a small difference of about a quarter of an inch. That distance seemed to work well for me but I may make it even closer. Before tightening every thing back up get in the drivers seat and start er up and check that the clutch fully disengages. Once your happy re-tighten the nut with the 12mm wrench. Now you can go about the adjustment of the clutch switch. I don't have pictures for this but it is very simple. Disconnect the cable for the switch and then loosen the nut with the 14mm wrench. Turn the switch until it is depressed by the clutch. then tighten the nut. Well that is it for that it was a very easy mod and i hope that this helps someone.
I figured I would use the information given so far to write up my own version of the walk through.
First thing is first TOOLS. Any thing you do in your life is easier when you have the right tools to do the job. For this particular job you need two open ended wrenches: 12mm and 14mm, next you need slip joint or tongue and groove pliers the pair I have are 8in tongue and groove and they are perfect for this job. Also have some sort of marking device so you can figure out how many turns you have done on the shaft.
Now this method will work with big or small hands. I have big hands and for those of you who say you were able to use two hands you must be one hell of a contortionist. Now the following picture is of the brake linkage but it is nearly the same as the clutch and much easier to see. First thing is mark the bottom of the rod with your marking device. Then loosen the capture nut on the linkage using the 12mm wrench. The yellow arrow is pointing to the brake nut which again is very similar to the clutch.
The shaft for the clutch is knurled so it can be gripped easily with the tongue and groove pliers. so grab the shaft and pinch and turn. I was able to move about 45degrees at a time. I went about 10 turns and then checked the pedal location. I did as many others did continued until the clutch was about level with the brake pedal and then backing off some giving a small difference of about a quarter of an inch. That distance seemed to work well for me but I may make it even closer. Before tightening every thing back up get in the drivers seat and start er up and check that the clutch fully disengages. Once your happy re-tighten the nut with the 12mm wrench. Now you can go about the adjustment of the clutch switch. I don't have pictures for this but it is very simple. Disconnect the cable for the switch and then loosen the nut with the 14mm wrench. Turn the switch until it is depressed by the clutch. then tighten the nut. Well that is it for that it was a very easy mod and i hope that this helps someone.
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I just completed this, noticed a HUGE improvement immediately. I initially adjusted it a little too far down, felt fine but I had to bring it back up so the switch would still be in it's adjustment range. It currently sits about .5 inch above the brake pedal.
Going to drive it like this a while and see how it feels, if I think I can do better I'll adjust it a little more. However I don't think the sensor will go down much further, the clutch return spring is kind of at it's end right there so it won't press that button positively.
Made the mark but still kind of lost track of the turns because it was hard to see. I think first was about 3 complete turns in, and then I backed it out 1 turn.
Going to drive it like this a while and see how it feels, if I think I can do better I'll adjust it a little more. However I don't think the sensor will go down much further, the clutch return spring is kind of at it's end right there so it won't press that button positively.
Made the mark but still kind of lost track of the turns because it was hard to see. I think first was about 3 complete turns in, and then I backed it out 1 turn.
My next project.
It took me a while to figure out reading both forums, but it seems like there are 2 ways to do this. Both are described above and on frontier forum.
1) Loosen backer nut and turn the rod.
2) Remove clevis pin and turn the bracket.
I'll repost after I do it and let you know which method I used.
It took me a while to figure out reading both forums, but it seems like there are 2 ways to do this. Both are described above and on frontier forum.
1) Loosen backer nut and turn the rod.
2) Remove clevis pin and turn the bracket.
I'll repost after I do it and let you know which method I used.
I adjusted the clutch using the op's method last year, the only negative I have experienced is that the clutch pedal does not always spring back up to the end stop point. When it does this, the cruise control will not engage. My only fix for this has been to make sure I check that the pedal is fully lifted with the top of my foot.
Anyone else have this specific experience and have an easy solution?
Anyone else have this specific experience and have an easy solution?
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350 Posts
So Happy I Found this, feels amazing now!
Thanks to everyone for this information. Just did this with my 2010 (new to me) this past weekend. I ended up at 1.5 turns of the clevis and am very happy with the results.
Based on the work done here, there shouldn't be any concern over the clutch dragging unless you over adjust the sensor like I mentioned above (I know, I know - as confirmed by others with many miles on the mod). But from a mechanical stand point, adjusting the clevis length doesn't actually impact the position of the shaft in the master cylinder. No worries.
Thanks for the information, Todd!
I had the same issue, and found I had to life the pedal back with my foot. My work around was to adjust the sensor, but unlike what I've read here (or remember reading), I took the sensor out, removed the jam nut, threaded the sensor back in, and put the jam nut on the other side. This allowed for the sensor to be pushed further forward to take up the slop while also using the sensor to take up that slop (i.e. it prevents the pedal from retracting as far as before). Just be careful that you don't thread the sensor in too far and inadvertently depress the clutch.
Based on the work done here, there shouldn't be any concern over the clutch dragging unless you over adjust the sensor like I mentioned above (I know, I know - as confirmed by others with many miles on the mod). But from a mechanical stand point, adjusting the clevis length doesn't actually impact the position of the shaft in the master cylinder. No worries.
Thanks for the information, Todd!
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247 Posts
by "sensor" you mean the "clutch switch" right???? thanks!
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10 Posts
Just did this, amazing difference!
2005 Xterra 4wd 6MT 1.5" lift Heftyfab skids,Shrockworks diff guard,Hardcoreoffroad sliders
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580 Posts
Gonna be adjusting mine soon now that I have seen this at times I wonder if my pressure plate is dragging slightly as sometimes going into gear from a stop is a little stiff or a slight grinding especially reverse
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1,083 Posts
You might want to bleed your clutch fluid also make sure you don't have moisture or air in the line.
2005 Xterra 4wd 6MT 1.5" lift Heftyfab skids,Shrockworks diff guard,Hardcoreoffroad sliders
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580 Posts
I bled the clutch when i replaced it at around 90k miles I might as well go ahead and do it again though when i change the tranny oil have to take the skid plate off for both anyways
2005 Xterra 4wd 6MT 1.5" lift Heftyfab skids,Shrockworks diff guard,Hardcoreoffroad sliders
Joined
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580 Posts
I just did this and WOW what a difference a few mm of adjustment makes. IMO this is a major improvement on the clutch feel.
I know its been awhile on this thread, but wanting to do this since I got my X a few months ago. This has been the number one thing bugging about this truck. I went ahead and did the mod (by turning the U clevis thing). WAY better!!
Like someone else said, this might lengthen the life of the clutch simply by having it "feel" more correct. I always felt like I was battling the clutch...like I was always spinning it too much (and also thinking about it too much).
I'm not sure I have it exactly where I want it yet. I had it really good, but then 'tightened' it one more half round. Not sure if its too much yet, but I'm going to leave it like this and drive around for a few days to see how I like it. Since I'm so used to it catching way up, it'll take some time to get used to it either way.
On a side note, theres now a squeak (sounds like from outside the firewall) when I depress the clutch...any ideas??
And thanks again for everyone's input on this... without the pics and how-to's, it would be a 1000 times harder (and would most likely f**k something up in the process
Like someone else said, this might lengthen the life of the clutch simply by having it "feel" more correct. I always felt like I was battling the clutch...like I was always spinning it too much (and also thinking about it too much).
I'm not sure I have it exactly where I want it yet. I had it really good, but then 'tightened' it one more half round. Not sure if its too much yet, but I'm going to leave it like this and drive around for a few days to see how I like it. Since I'm so used to it catching way up, it'll take some time to get used to it either way.
On a side note, theres now a squeak (sounds like from outside the firewall) when I depress the clutch...any ideas??
And thanks again for everyone's input on this... without the pics and how-to's, it would be a 1000 times harder (and would most likely f**k something up in the process
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