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This may need editing since it's my first how-to, but considering the difficultly I personally had with the Calmini AAL I wrote up how I did it all.

**Only do one side at a time when working on leaf springs**

**I did not have my rear sway bars attached when doing this, and I also felt that allowed for more room.**

1. Drop out your spare tire from the back of the X and leave it to the side during installation. (This is NOT necessary but with as much work you will be doing back there it's nice for the extra room and it only takes a second)

2. Loosen up the lug nuts on the rear tire on the side you will do first.

3. Lift up the X and place it on jack stands.

4. Remove the wheel/tire. Place the axle on a jack stand as well on the side of the X you are working on. I prefer not to have the axle simply being help up by the shock while the shock is topped out, just gives me a bad feeling.

5. Remove the Factory U-Bolts. Throw these away, U-Bolts should never be re-used. Put the support plate to the side that drops out when you remove the U-Bolts.

6. Remove the front spring bolt. If you have someone with you, have them supporting the leaf pack because it will drop down. If not, use a jack or another jack stand to support the pack so it doesn't drop on you. Once you are out of the way, you can let it drop to the ground.

7. Remove the lower shackle bolt on the rear. Follow same directions on supporting the spring pack listed above so it doesn't drop on you.

8. Take the spring pack to a place that you have room to work with it.

9. There are two clamps on the pack, you are going to have to pry these open any ways possible so they look like a U instead of the way they look clamped.


You are doing this to insert the new springs, and you will be re-using the clamps since they are attached so you want them like the first one so they can be re-tightened.

NOTE: This things are tough. Do them however you can, but I ended up have help with another guy and a 6 Foot (50 Pound) leverage bar to open them up, then pounded them flat with a small sledgehammer (one hand size). There are plastic caps around them, during this process I tried to keep those there, but it was futile. I didn't notice any difference in noise with them off.

10. Attach a C-Clamp on each side of the center bolt which you will be removing.

11. Attach Vise Grips to the top of the center bolt, and remove the bolt through the nut on the bottom. This bolt will not be re-used and can be thrown away.

12. Release the C-Clamps and allow the leaf springs to spread. The Calmini AAL is nice because they are designed at different lengths so they can be interspersed, so if you have those insert them in by length. Just lay it out on the table since the spring pack with be spread out.

13. On top of the longest spring (Top spring), place the wedge if you have one. The fat end of the wedge should be towards the rear of the car.

NOTE: The 5+ or the + symbol on the bottom is the engine facing side.

14. Take the new center pin and insert it in through the spring pack. It should require a little 'jiggling' but get in without a fuss. It is extra long, so also attach the nut to it as well.

15. Take the two C-Clamps, and tighten up on each side of the center bolt as tight as you can.

16. Tighten up the center bolt up to where the springs are at, but not excessively tight. You want some give because the springs are likely splayed at this point.

17. At this point you want to get the clamps back around the leaf springs like they were originally. Do this whatever way you feel is easiest, it took a lot of time for me. With another person holding the spring pack (it's really heavy), I banged the hell out of the clamp with the baby sledgehammer and it resting on a closed table clamp so it wouldn't give. I also used the C-Clamps from earlier to tighten it up a bit. Keep in mind the purpose of this is to prevent it from splaying, the top spring prevents upward movement through it's own existence.

18. Once this is done, feel free to re-attach the C-Clamps and tighten to Center bolt to the appropriate torque.

19. Cut the excess of the center bolt. There will be a LOT left over, and cut it off to a reasonable point. Don't get too close to the nut, but there is a lot of bolt hanging out.

20. Place the leaf pack aside. Grab the bump-stop extensions and head to the car. These are inserted where the current bump stops are, and the current ones will attach to the bottom of the extensions. Use the existing bolts to tighten on the extension, and the supplied ones to attach the bump stops to extension. Do not use the lock washers, those are for the U-Bolts. Tighten down both the bump stop and extension securely.

21. Here is where I tried every way to get the leaf packs back on. In my opinion, the hardest part was getting the center pin to match up with the slot allowed for it in the mount for the U-Bolts. I decided eventually, to first do the U-Bolts and the U-Bolt mount before trying to attach the leafs to any mount. So using the lock washers and new U-Bolts, tighten them down on their mount making sure the center pin is going through the slot for it. IMPORTANT: Make sure to switch from nut to nut as you tighten these, you want them all even and you can tighten one side so much, it will prevent you from tightening down the other side even close to that. Tighten this up enough so the pin and bolts stay in place, but don't tighten them down all the way to the torque specs yet. The give will help.

22. Attach the leafs to the front mount bolt. This one isn't so easy either. It won't be ready to just drop in. I had to lift up the axle with a jack to get the leverage to pull down on the leaf springs to get them to fit in there. Just keep in mind, when you are working on that area, the higher the axle the closer the leafs will be to that point, and they will need to be pulled down on. It's really nice to have a friend around here, to insert the pin when it matches up since you might also be pulling on the leafs. Tighten this down to torque specs.

23. Following instructions from 22, do the same for the rear leaf springs to the shackles. I ended up having to take a crowbar and using that as leverage, pull down on the pack since it has a lot of extra spring in it now. This is especially tough if you also have after market shackles. Insert bolt, and tighten down to torque specs.

24. Go back to the U-Bolts and tighten them all to the factory torque settings. Keep in mind, as the first one hits the torque setting, that will change as you tighten the other 3, so go back a few times to each of them to ensure they are all correct.

25. Remove all jack stands, make sure everything looks right (whatever that means).

26. Lift up the car enough and place your wheel back on! At this point you are halfway done. Now do the same thing on the other side.
 

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Looks like a nice solid write up. Now if we can have someone take pictures along the way we will have a great write up!

Thanks!
 

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Nice summary. I'm still alittle intimidated to try this myself, but it doens't sound too hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just budget enough time for it in case you run in to 'unexpected' troubles.
 

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Re: Add-A-Leaf How To (Without Pics)

Erick said:
This may need editing since it's my first how-to, but considering the difficultly I personally had with the Calmini AAL I wrote up how I did it all.

...

13. On top of the longest spring (Top spring), place the wedge if you have one. The fat end of the wedge should be towards the rear of the car.

NOTE: The 5+ or the + symbol on the bottom is the engine facing side.
...
I recently installed the Automotive Customizers (AC) 3 Leaf AAL pack. I printed these instructions for a guide because there were no instructions included.

I think you are mistaken on the alignment of the shim or wedge. Shouldn't the fat or thick end be toward the front of the vehicle?
 

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Did this question ever get figured out?

As I'm in the process of doing the AAL and am stuck.

Do I need to turn my shim around?
 

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fat end goes to the front, the purpose it to increase the angle from the ground to decrease the angle from the driveshaft to the rear axle.

look at it sitting flat then visually rotate with your eyes so the driveshaft has a straight shot into the rear diff. if you visually think of how the axle sits on the leaf pack you can imagine a wedge shaped opening being formed with the fatter end at the front.
 
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