[Boksaints]

This for sure asked many times and mine still hesitating at 1st gear when you gas it from a full stop or turning. I have a 2011 4x4 with only 68k miles.

Popular solution is to fill more ATF due to low fluid level. I felt the improvement when I did that but I am already on top of the crosshatch of the dipstick but issue still there on sudden acceleration.

Questions / possible causes?:
-Does the level get affected by summer weather (100F and up)?
-I have lift kit of 2.5” does that affect the fluid level -getting inaccurate reading?
-Should I add more even if the level is above the crosshatch already?

Background:
2 weeks ago:
-Changed the ATF fluid with Castrol
-Replaced trans filter, transfer case fluid and cleaned trans pan
-Replaced plugs and valve cover gasket

This week:
-Drained trans fluid again and filled with Matic-S fluid
-Removed battery to reset computer
-Did some relearn by ‘Ry the car guy’
-Checked the fluid level multiple times; warm & cold engine, parked and running

So after the above items, I added 16 ounces making the level on top of the crosshatch, the hesitation was lessened -but issue still there when suddenly accelerates to 2.8 to 3k rpm.

I removed 5ounces cause I’m scared that I might be overfilled but the issue worsen again -it will show up at 1.8k rpm. So I decided to add 16 ounces again making the level right above the crosshatch of the dipstick.

Please please let me know if you’ve experienced this and what was your solution to solve it. Thank you very much!!

 

[Just a Hunter]

Out of curiosity, what is the year and mileage of your xterra?

 

[Boksaints]

Out of curiosity, what is the year and mileage of your xterra?

I have a 2011 AT 4x4 with 68k miles.

 

[FishCannon]

When you say hesitation...

When you hit the gas, does the engine RPM rise without any vehicle acceleration?

Or does the engine RPM not rise, or rise slowly?

If the RPM's go up, but the vehicle isn't accelerating, then you've got a slipping transmission. If the engine RPM's don't go up when you give it some throttle, then you've got an engine related issue.

 

[Boksaints]

When you say hesitation...

When you hit the gas, does the engine RPM rise without any vehicle acceleration?

Or does the engine RPM not rise, or rise slowly?

If the RPM's go up, but the vehicle isn't accelerating, then you've got a slipping transmission. If the engine RPM's don't go up when you give it some throttle, then you've got an engine related issue.

The RPM rises without any acceleration. This wasn’t my problem until I changed the transmission fluid 2 weeks ago. I read some thread here and they said it’s just low on ATF. I properly checked mine (warm, park, engine running) and got in the middle of the dipstick. So I added more and saw the improvement but it’s still there, have to reach 3k or more before it slip/hesitate (compared to 1.8k rpm then slip).

I’m not sure if I should add more ATF even if the level is already above the hot crosshatch on dipstick but that would make me overfilled. Is there something wrong with the dipstick itself and not reading well? Cause it’s way smoother to drive now even if I think it’s overfilled and just getting it when you really push the throttle hard. The weather here are on 100s F, does that making the oil look overfill since it’s hot and expanded and maybe I’m really missing half quart after all?

I really getting frustrated since we just bought the car. My intention is to really have a preventive maintenance but this happens.

I hope someone can solve me with this issue. Thank you very much!

 

[campisi]

What ATF did you put in?

 

[Boksaints]

What ATF did you put in?

It was Castrol that was bought from Autozone by the mechanic. They said it was really for Xterra. Should I just flush it all out like PMF and fill with Nissan Matic-S and see what happens?

 

[campisi]

I'd probably put the Nissan S in.
transmission fluid

 

[mtnbound]

The RPM rises without any acceleration. This wasn’t my problem until I changed the transmission fluid 2 weeks ago. I read some thread here and they said it’s just low on ATF. I properly checked mine (warm, park, engine running) and got in the middle of the dipstick. So I added more and saw the improvement but it’s still there, have to reach 3k or more before it slip/hesitate (compared to 1.8k rpm then slip).

I’m not sure if I should add more ATF even if the level is already above the hot crosshatch on dipstick but that would make me overfilled. Is there something wrong with the dipstick itself and not reading well? Cause it’s way smoother to drive now even if I think it’s overfilled and just getting it when you really push the throttle hard. The weather here are on 100s F, does that making the oil look overfill since it’s hot and expanded and maybe I’m really missing half quart after all?

I really getting frustrated since we just bought the car. My intention is to really have a preventive maintenance but this happens.

I hope someone can solve me with this issue. Thank you very much!

one thing your saying doesnt make sense to me:

"have to reach 3k or more before it slip/hesitate (compared to 1.8k rpm then slip)."

when i think of hesitation or slip, it would start at idle, and "slip" until it hit say 3k rpm, when there was enough friction being created to "catch" and not slip anymore.

it sounds like your saying the opposite, you give it throttle and its grabbing but then "slips" once you hit over 3k rpms?

either way, it sounds like the torque converter may be on its way out. though it could also be the valve body. any SES codes?

is this only in 1t gear from a stop? or if you hit the gas going say, 30 mph, does it down shift and then start slipping?

 

[Boksaints]

one thing your saying doesnt make sense to me:

"have to reach 3k or more before it slip/hesitate (compared to 1.8k rpm then slip)."

when i think of hesitation or slip, it would start at idle, and "slip" until it hit say 3k rpm, when there was enough friction being created to "catch" and not slip anymore.

it sounds like your saying the opposite, you give it throttle and its grabbing but then "slips" once you hit over 3k rpms?

either way, it sounds like the torque converter may be on its way out. though it could also be the valve body. any SES codes?

is this only in 1t gear from a stop? or if you hit the gas going say, 30 mph, does it down shift and then start slipping?

You’re right. From full stop and accelerate over 3k RPM then it will slip. Before adding additional ATF, it slips just over 1.8k rpm.

And yes only at first gear and smooth shifting on all other gears.

There was a SES light but never came back after I removed the battery to do a reset.

 

[RamTest]

You’re right. From full stop and accelerate over 3k RPM then it will slip. Before adding additional ATF, it slips just over 1.8k rpm.
And yes only at first gear and smooth shifting on all other gears.
There was a SES light but never came back after I removed the battery to do a reset.

There seems to be a bit of a language barrier here.

You should bring your truck to a garage mechanic and get the correct fluid put in.
You can quickly do a lot of damage that will cost a lot of money if this is not done correctly.

 

[mtnbound]

There seems to be a bit of a language barrier here.

You should bring your truck to a garage mechanic and get the correct fluid put in.
You can quickly do a lot of damage that will cost a lot of money if this is not done correctly.

he has the correct fluid.

matic s or castrol for asian vehicles is fine.

even if the ses isnt lit, you may still be able to pull a stored code that could help diagnose.

 

[Boksaints]

There seems to be a bit of a language barrier here.

You should bring your truck to a garage mechanic and get the correct fluid put in.
You can quickly do a lot of damage that will cost a lot of money if this is not done correctly.

Thanks for the advice. I will just bring the truck to the dealer since I really can’t get the right answer to solve the issue. I’ll let them figure it out.

Let me rephrase my message earlier so you could better understand:
It happens when I accelerate from a full stop and when I reach 3,000 RPM. The transmission hesitates like will it give a go or not.. It’s like you shifted to Neutral while driving and then after 1 to 2 seconds it goes back to 1st gear. However, last week my fluid was under fill so it was worst then; transmission hesitates over 1,800 RPM. Bottomline, should I still continue to fill up even if the fluid is already at the top of the dipstick crosshatch mark and until the symptom is gone? Or there is really another problem here?

Again, this only happens at first gear, when it shifted to 2nd and up, they’re all smooth and effortless.

SES lit last week but I did the battery reset by removing the positive negative cables overnight. After that, the light never came back.

 

[CaptInsane-O]

Does your X still have the original radiator? There is a known problem the radiator on 2010 and older Xterras, Pathfinders and Frontiers. Over time the seal between the anti-freeze passages and the internal transmission cooler breaks down and allows coolant to mix with the transmission fluid. As yours is a 2011 it SHOULD have an updated radiator design that takes care of the problem but people have had issues with 2011 & 2012 Xterras, so it is worth looking into. Check your radiator p/n against the ones listed in this thread...

List of Calsonic Radiator Part Numbers Associated with SMOD

 

[Boksaints]

he has the correct fluid.

matic s or castrol for asian vehicles is fine.

even if the ses isnt lit, you may still be able to pull a stored code that could help diagnose.

Thank you very much for confirming! Agreed, I will just bring it to the dealer to further diagnose. I’ll update this thread once I solve the issue.

 

[CaptInsane-O]

Thanks for the advice. I will just bring the truck to the dealer since I really can’t get the right answer to solve the issue. I’ll let them figure it out.

Let me rephrase my message earlier so you could better understand:
It happens when I accelerate from a full stop and when I reach 3,000 RPM. The transmission hesitates like will it give a go or not.. It’s like you shifted to Neutral while driving and then after 1 to 2 seconds it goes back to 1st gear. However, last week my fluid was under fill so it was worst then; transmission hesitates over 1,800 RPM. Bottomline, should I still continue to fill up even if the fluid is already at the top of the crosshatch mark at the dipstick until the symptom is gone? Or there is really another problem here?

Again, this only happens at first gear, when it shifted to 2nd and up, they’re all smooth and effortless.

SES lit last week but I did the battery reset by removing the positive negative cables overnight. After that, the light never came back.

Did you retrieve / read the SES code before removing the battery cable?

 

[Boksaints]

Did you retrieve / read the SES code before removing the battery cable?

Unfortunately no. Hopefully there is a stored data when I have it checked tomorrow.

 

[Jbauer0]

Did you measure how much fluid you took out? You should replace the exact amount you took out. I changed mine awhile ago, it reads high on the ATF dipstick, the fluid level is at the very top of the xxxx part on the dipstick while cold, (just checked it) but trans runs great at 215k. I'll bet you are low on your ATF.

 

[Boksaints]

Did you measure how much fluid you took out? You should replace the exact amount you took out. I changed mine awhile ago, it reads high on the ATF dipstick, the fluid level is at the very top of the xxxx part on the dipstick while cold, (just checked it) but trans runs great at 215k. I'll bet you are low on your ATF.

That’s what I am thinking too. When I added some fluid I felt a lot of improvement. I just want to add some more but my fear is I don’t want to overfill. I’m not sure if there’s something wrong with the dipstick?

 

[Boksaints]

Nissan Dealership diagnosis: change transmission due to internal problems.

$6,200 parts and labor without tax. 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Will really appreciate if you guys have any other suggestions to solve this issue. I still can’t believe since I only have 68k miles on it.