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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I've gotten as far as trying to install the hinge. I have two bronze washers to be installed within the hinge brackets. One on top of the swingarm and one below. Well, I cannot get the second one in, as it just doesn't fit.

I sanded the excess paint off around the swingarm holes, which helped a bit, but didn't do much. I sanded a tiny bit of the washer before realizing I'd be there for a long time. I also tried manually separating the brackets, but there is limited room.

Any other ideas? Experiences? If I could find a thinner washer I'd go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Too dark. Here's what it is supposed to look like. Arrows pointing to locations of washers. I can fit one in and likely half the thickness of another washer.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is probably about 1/16". So general consensus being to hit the bottom tab down? Top one is pretty much impossible to move as it is so short.
 

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Another way of spreading something like this is to put a bolt or threaded rod in it and put two nuts with washers between the tabs. Turn a nut and presto, you've spread the tabs without messing up the finish.
 

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Well, I've gotten as far as trying to install the hinge. I have two bronze washers to be installed within the hinge brackets. One on top of the swingarm and one below. Well, I cannot get the second one in, as it just doesn't fit.

I sanded the excess paint off around the swingarm holes, which helped a bit, but didn't do much. I sanded a tiny bit of the washer before realizing I'd be there for a long time. I also tried manually separating the brackets, but there is limited room.

Any other ideas? Experiences? If I could find a thinner washer I'd go that route.
I had the same issue when I had my insane bumper. I used a towel and socket extension to spread the tabs. The towel prevented damage to the finish.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had the same issue when I had my insane bumper. I used a towel and socket extension to spread the tabs. The towel prevented damage to the finish.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
How'd that work? Lol. You must've used more than just an extension.

I bought $15 worth of hardware. One for the spreading technique and one to put through the hole for use with a sledge.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Used both methods to make it work.

Last issue is that the Grade 8 washers that go on the top and bottom of the hinge bolt are flat on one side and slightly rounded on the other (with wording). I put them on with the rounded side against the bracket/paint and the flat side against the head and nut to avoid scratching.

So which way is right before I tighten this nut? And what is actually supposed to move when I open the carrier?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Copy that. Thanks.

Are you able to answer the second part about what is supposed to allow the swingarm to rotate? Does the bolt rotate too? Just the brass washers? Just the swingarm?
 

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Mine doesn't have the brass bushings (I used bearings when I built mine), but if I recall correctly seeing others, the only thing that rotates is the bushings and the swing arm. The bolt does not rotate.
 

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How'd that work? Lol. You must've used more than just an extension.

I bought $15 worth of hardware. One for the spreading technique and one to put through the hole for use with a sledge.
It was a long extension wrapped in the towel. I just used leverage by putting the extension through the hole in the tab.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh I see.

I got everything installed, but as @jsexton said, I needed to add a couple washers on the right side of the latch to get it to close. Might even add another couple.
The swingarm isn't that easy to open. It was easy until I tightened the nut enough that the washers were no longer free. Still a nice bumper.

My suggestion for someone with stock rims is to set the tire mount plate 7.25" out from the center tube.
 

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Yup that was me... Dave (Maxterra) also noted this, he has changed his design a bit due to the manufacturing difference in the latch. He has even had to replace a few latches due to issue with them. While they lock up tight and prevent movement, there is still issues with them. But of all the designs I have seen, I like this latch the best. Daves design is also more forgiving to adjustment later if needed due to the latch differences over lots, as well as a top guide/ retention that I have not seen others use. Its between rain storms here right now so I grabbed this pick. But on my Shrock yes, I had to shim the latch with washers to get a good positive lock when securing the latch. But I just had to do 1 washer, not 3... thats bad.

Last, as far as the bolt... On my Shrock, it started off not spinning, but within a year, it was. Daves swingout has a zerk fitting for greasing the bearings, I grease every oil change, still smooth as butter even when loaded with 10 gallons of fuel. When Dave was installing my swing out and we had his and the Shrock side by side, he said he noticed some changes to Shrocks design and pointed them out, as well as his differences. He also told me that we had a member (I really want to say it was Kuma, but don't quote me on that), that had his bolt on the shrock seized up tighter than a Nuns whats it. They used a 6ft break bar with the guys trying to put some twist on the bolt while his forklift was applying pressure from the bottom. No go. They ended up hacking off hinge and Dave retrofitted his hinge on the shrock. So there is one MaxShrock out there somewhere. But another reason why I like Maxterras rear more. Little things here and there really add up, more so when you have had both and see the differences.

 
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