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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
The smaller tire will make it look like your are going further and faster.
Based on the calculations, the difference in odometer from 265/75 to 285/75 should only have a 0.5mpg impact if not accounted for. The actual difference in MPG, if going from a 45 lb tire to a 60 lb tire, from everything I've read here, is more like 2-3mpg.
 

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Yall are making me want to pull the trigger on the load C Duratracs. What do you think about their on-road performance? Are they excessively noisy like the reviews say?
definitely have some road noise to them, but to be expected. they are waaaay quieter than my old cooper mud terrains but noisier than my old BFG KOs. it's honestly not that bad. we use our x tow our camper all over CO, UT etc. and it's not enough to bother us on an 8 hr highway drive.
 

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I know you can't always judge the performance of a tire by how it looks, but IMO that tread looks like it'd be worthless on packed snow and ice. Based on everything that the OP has said I'd think an MT tire is about the last thing that they actually want.


Shame on me I suppose... As a 3rd coast area Texan, I have no experience with snow & ice and what the tread should look like for those conditions. Discount has these listed / grouped with their All Terrain tires so I figured it was worth sharing since options for this particular size & load rating combo seem to be very limited.
 

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Shame on me I suppose... As a 3rd coast area Texan, I have no experience with snow & ice and what the tread should look like for those conditions. Discount has these listed / grouped with their All Terrain tires so I figured it was worth sharing since options for this particular size & load rating combo seem to be very limited.
No worries, it just seemed like a choice that was prioritizing the load range over the tire itself, OP mentioned needing better snow performance. I agree the lack of available load range C options in these sizes is frustrating. I've been pleased with E but was also seeking a C or D range initially, until I found that there aren't a lot of options.

It seems like the OP is narrowing things down, so hopefully he's able to find something that will work well for him.
 

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Thanks for clarifying gys. @BradB I'm not really understanding the difference between SL and C rated. As I posted before, the max load and the max pressures are the same. Is the sidewall stronger on the C even with the same load / pressure specs?
SL vs C: I think XL might be closer to C. I wouldn't be surprised if certain XL rated tires were very similar to other C rated tires.
I found this interesting statement on another forum... "XL tires seem to quack like an LT "C" rated tire: for example, Falken tire, lists their Wildpeak A/T3W XL tire as "6 ply equivalent" and it's tire weight is in the neighborhood of other LT "C" rated tires when I compared 245/75R16 tires. "
Might be helpful to compare the actual construction, load ratings and weights for the specific tires that are under consideration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
SL vs C: I think XL might be closer to C. I wouldn't be surprised if certain XL rated tires were very similar to other C rated tires.
I found this interesting statement on another forum... "XL tires seem to quack like an LT "C" rated tire: for example, Falken tire, lists their Wildpeak A/T3W XL tire as "6 ply equivalent" and it's tire weight is in the neighborhood of other LT "C" rated tires when I compared 245/75R16 tires. "
Might be helpful to compare the actual construction, load ratings and weights for the specific tires that are under consideration.
I don’t see the Falken labeled XL in 265/75, but here are the specs for the SL.
Font Number Rectangle Screenshot Parallel


It’s almost the same weight, and actually has a higher max load and PSI than the Duratrac in Load C. My concern is, how do I know if the Falken is 6 ply sidewall (or equivalent)? I don’t care so much about the max load as I do the sidewall toughness.
Font Number Screenshot Rectangle Parallel
 

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I dont see which version they are testing, but some interesting comments here:
The tire features a two-ply sidewall, but both plies have high ply turn ups wrapping around the bead and rising back up, ending just shy of the upper sidewall tread features. This creates a four-ply thick, sidewall to protect from punctures in off-road situations.
Just quoting stuff... I'm not expert in these tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
These 3 tires seem to fit the bill. Regardless of SL vs C, they all weigh the same and have the same max PSI. Plus aggressive tread.

There is definitely a lot of variance in “SL” rated tires. In 265/75, they vary from 37 lbs to 46 lbs, and from 44 psi to 51psi. Meanwhile, the C rated are at 45-47 lbs, and 50psi. Maybe I’m missing something, but these heavy “SL” tires seem to be the same as the C.

Sumitomo Encounter Is very interesting at $180

Falken (SL)

Duratrac (C)

If I’m wrong somebody stop me, but I’m tempted to buy one of these heavy SL tires and consider it a LT C
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I dont see which version they are testing, but some interesting comments here:
The tire features a two-ply sidewall, but both plies have high ply turn ups wrapping around the bead and rising back up, ending just shy of the upper sidewall tread features. This creates a four-ply thick, sidewall to protect from punctures in off-road situations.
Just quoting stuff... I'm not expert in these tires.
Interesting, a “4 ply” sidewall would put it lower than a C which is 6 ply… I am not understanding how the max psi, max load, and weight can be the same, but the ply be different.
 

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Thanks for clarifying gys. @BradB I'm not really understanding the difference between SL and C rated. As I posted before, the max load and the max pressures are the same. Is the sidewall stronger on the C even with the same load / pressure specs?
Sorry bud that would be a question for someone more in tune with the various tire standards, which seems difficult and nuanced to navigate. I'm very happy with the SL's for my use case though.
 

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Wow - I'm late to this thread, been busy the past couple weeks - but I do have some Duratrac experience.

First - it's already been said, but 40psi seems very high to me - I keep mine at 36, even when pulling the boat - they handle great on the highway, wear evenly and last 50K+ miles at that pressure.

Second - I'm 52 and have been driving Colorado snow my entire life - other than purpose built Nokian or Haakapelitta (did I spell that right) dedicated snow tires, the Duratracs are the best tire in snow and ice that I've ever had. The Xterra in 4Hi with Duratracs is better on the ice than my wife's Infiniti with 3peak rated all seasons, and that car is running the Mercedes 4matic system under the hood. Far more sophisticated and comfortable, but the Xterra is the choice when weather gets bad.

Third - they do get loud as they age - the first 10k miles or so they are basically silent (although I bet they hum pretty good at 40psi), then they progressively get louder. By 40k I start noticing them, and at 50K (I'm on my third set) I replace them. The cost/benefit at 50k miles is worth it to me. Luckily Xterras have the Rockford-Fosgate tire noise compensator built in....

In my experience, the only downside to the Duratrac is the potentially weak side wall. For my couple of trails per year, and I don't like to get too technical, they are more than fine. My friends in the Toyota world, who are much more hardcore than me, all switched to Duratracs a few years ago, and then all switched to other choices as they started ripping out sidewalls. So that's not first hand info, but I do think it's a legitimate concern.

And finally, in my experience years ago with my Tacoma, spacer lifts kill rides. I liked being taller (I did a 2" Toytec spacer in my Tacoma) but I hated the ride. If you want my advice (and you've already had plenty) I would air down to 35, see if the ride improves and see if your gas mileage really gets worse - that's the cheap solution, but not as fun as researching and buying tires, which is something I actually do enjoy doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Wow - I'm late to this thread, been busy the past couple weeks - but I do have some Duratrac experience.

First - it's already been said, but 40psi seems very high to me - I keep mine at 36, even when pulling the boat - they handle great on the highway, wear evenly and last 50K+ miles at that pressure.

Second - I'm 52 and have been driving Colorado snow my entire life - other than purpose built Nokian or Haakapelitta (did I spell that right) dedicated snow tires, the Duratracs are the best tire in snow and ice that I've ever had. The Xterra in 4Hi with Duratracs is better on the ice than my wife's Infiniti with 3peak rated all seasons, and that car is running the Mercedes 4matic system under the hood. Far more sophisticated and comfortable, but the Xterra is the choice when weather gets bad.

Third - they do get loud as they age - the first 10k miles or so they are basically silent (although I bet they hum pretty good at 40psi), then they progressively get louder. By 40k I start noticing them, and at 50K (I'm on my third set) I replace them. The cost/benefit at 50k miles is worth it to me. Luckily Xterras have the Rockford-Fosgate tire noise compensator built in....

In my experience, the only downside to the Duratrac is the potentially weak side wall. For my couple of trails per year, and I don't like to get too technical, they are more than fine. My friends in the Toyota world, who are much more hardcore than me, all switched to Duratracs a few years ago, and then all switched to other choices as they started ripping out sidewalls. So that's not first hand info, but I do think it's a legitimate concern.

And finally, in my experience years ago with my Tacoma, spacer lifts kill rides. I liked being taller (I did a 2" Toytec spacer in my Tacoma) but I hated the ride. If you want my advice (and you've already had plenty) I would air down to 35, see if the ride improves and see if your gas mileage really gets worse - that's the cheap solution, but not as fun as researching and buying tires, which is something I actually do enjoy doing.
Ok thanks, I’m still considering doing the OME suspension kit and getting rid of the spacers. But, combine that with new tires and It’s a lot of dough.

Probably if I did that, and aired down to 36 psi, the E rated tires would be bearable. But, getting something C rated and leaving the spacer kit is a much cheaper fix, and better mpg.

Curious, are you running the C rated or E rated Duratracs?

It is concerning about the sidewall, especially if I go with the C rated.
 

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Following this with some interest. I have a new to me X that came with what looks and feels like a fairly fresh OME suspension. Tires are a set of E rated 265/75-16 KO2s that will need to be replaced soon (weather cracking and age). I have been running 35 lbs on the road and they ride ok.

Coming from a pavement based competition background, unsprung weight is the devil, and boy howdy are some these tires heavy, so if I could lose some of that weight I think it would be beneficial.

I plan on occassionally towing my competition car and trailer, which will weigh roughly 3.5k lbs.

So I am a bit unsure what exactly I need to buy, if I can get my planned moderate trail and towing all covered by a lighter and ultimately less costly tire I'd be interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I’m no expert but the only reason you need E rated tires is if you are doing some serious off-reading on trails with sharp rocks and want the sidewall protection. The X is rated to tow 5000 lbs stock, with SL tires. If you’re just doing some light towing and normal dirt roads / trails, absolutely no reason to have E rated tired IMO.

Only reason I’m still considering e rated is because I occasionally do some pretty serious trails in the mountains
 

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Ok thanks, I’m still considering doing the OME suspension kit and getting rid of the spacers. But, combine that with new tires and It’s a lot of dough.

Probably if I did that, and aired down to 36 psi, the E rated tires would be bearable. But, getting something C rated and leaving the spacer kit is a much cheaper fix, and better mpg.

Curious, are you running the C rated or E rated Duratracs?

It is concerning about the sidewall, especially if I go with the C rated.
What Discount stocks, so C rated. For me the weight and ride penalties aren't worth a heavier tire. I forget, have you looked at the old school BFG KO2's? I've had a few of those too, I would quantify them as "very very good" in the snow, vs the Duratrac's "great", and they have a pretty good trail reputation
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
What Discount stocks, so C rated. For me the weight and ride penalties aren't worth a heavier tire. I forget, have you looked at the old school BFG KO2's? I've had a few of those too, I would quantify them as "very very good" in the snow, vs the Duratrac's "great", and they have a pretty good trail reputation
Thanks, I’ve looked at the KO2’s but they only come in E or SL
 

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Still on the learning curve here with tire ratings and which to choose. I am about to rotate my current c-rated KO2s to BFG KM3s. The KO2s have been great, but with more offroad in my future, the KM3s seemed like a good upgrade. I will also be moving from a 31" to a 33".

What I was reading (before this thread) was the rating (c-d-e) was mainly about weight capacity of the tire. Yes, and the sidewalls may be thicker with the D or E vs C.

There is an expectation that you normally run the tire at the suggested tire pressure, which increases with the rating.

Until I read this thread I was thinking that the C rating would meet my needs even with the added weight of all my mods and extra gear--and that the ride would be better with the C because there would not be enough weight of the vehicle to work the higher rated tires.

What am I missing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Still on the learning curve here with tire ratings and which to choose. I am about to rotate my current c-rated KO2s to BFG KM3s. The KO2s have been great, but with more offroad in my future, the KM3s seemed like a good upgrade. I will also be moving from a 31" to a 33".

What I was reading (before this thread) was the rating (c-d-e) was mainly about weight capacity of the tire. Yes, and the sidewalls may be thicker with the D or E vs C.

There is an expectation that you normally run the tire at the suggested tire pressure, which increases with the rating.

Until I read this thread I was thinking that the C rating would meet my needs even with the added weight of all my mods and extra gear--and that the ride would be better with the C because there would not be enough weight of the vehicle to work the higher rated tires.

What am I missing?
I don’t think you’re missing anything. IMO if you can find a C rated tire in the size and model you like, buy it. Unless you’re rock crawling sharp boulders, I don’t see why you would ever need E rated.
My dilemma is most of the tires I like only come in SL or E. Hence the search to understand if a heavy, high max PSI SL is actually the same as a C.
 

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Ok that actually looks good! Maybe even better, you can tell the truck is lifted.

Now the question is which 265/75/R16? I only see a couple with C rating on Tire Rack. The Duratracs & Discoverers. The Duratracs look pretty sick and have great snow rating. In Colorado that's a big one for me
Same concern here. I have the Cooper Discovery AT3’s and the jumping around heading up I70 scares the crap out of me.
 
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