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Garage Door Remote Control Relocation Mod

5426 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  gummydmilo
I can't take credit for this one cuz I saw it on another forum, but I figured I would show you what I did (and lessons learned along the way). I bought an SPST Momentary On Pushbutton Switch at the Shack (Part # 275-644). Opened the remote control, removed the circuit board, and located the switch. Used test meter to identify which solder joints completed the circuit.

Desoldered all four mounting points, and resoldered in some wire to the two active points. Then I soldered the other ends of the wire to the terminals on my new switch. Mistake #1: I forgot that the switch needed to be installed in the switch blank first. I ended up having to cut the wire in the middle, slip the wire throught the front of the blank, put the nut over the wire and tighten it down on the inside of the blank, then spliced the wires back together. Doh! After this faux pas was corrected, I snapped the blank back in place, reassembled the remote (leaving out the push plate that used to activate the switch), running the wire out through the front of the remote. I just coiled the wire up and dropped the remote behind the kick panel to the left of the clutch pedal.

Here is the switch in place:

For those of you that don't know how to remove the lower dash panel to get to the switch blank, the next photo shows the piece of trim you need to pop out to get to the second screw that holds the panel in place (ThanX to someone who showed me this a while back):

I did this mod because I was tired of fumbling in the console to get my remote, and did not want to Velcro it to the dash or clip it to the visor. Eventually I will have some additional lights and will probably want to use this switch's place for the light switch. At this point, I think I will try another mod I read about: Remove the switch on the circuit board, solder in a jumper to keep the circuit always closed, solder wire to each of the battery terminals (battery removed), and splice the wires to the wires that go to the bright lights (remember: Pos to Pos & Neg to Neg). Stuff the remote in a ziplock bag and zip tie it to someplace under the hood. Flicking your brights should now activate the remote.
If I ever decide to neaten the whole thing up, I would use the Dremel to make a notch in the remote's case to exit the wire through, and replace the original push pad (after cutting off the piece that used to depress the original switch. This would keep the circuit board covered up.
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cool idea. Did this change the distance you can open your door from? In my jeep I had the opener located under the dash and could only open it next to the door (some kind of interferance) but under my console and I could open it at the beginning of my road.
Haven't tested the range yet, however I have a few dead spots even close to the door. If it gets to be annoying, I'll add some extra length in the wire and relocate it.
I have the same remote as you so I tried this mod, but I ran into the problem that when I install the battery to the remote without pushing the button the garage door have a pic to where you souldered your wires...

My daughter is using my truck now, so I can't get the remote out to look at it, but I am pretty sure that the two terminals I used are the two immediately below the blade of the screwdriver. One on left and the other on the right. As memory serves me, the switch was soldered in on four legs, but only two were active. See the second photo of the circuit board.
I figured it finally thanks...I will post pics of my version of the mod...
the switch is no longer available so I got a different one part#275-0646

all radio shacks in canada are now the Source by Circuit City...
Well, they just home and I opened up the control. It turns out the two terminals that I wired to are the two below the left edge of the blade, one below the other and slightly diagonal from each other. Viewed from the top side of the board (w/ microswitch showing) they are the two terminals on the right. Switch is outlined in white, activating terminals are on the opposite side of where it says SW1. Hope this helps.
Just wondering if anyone has yet installed a homelink. I'm thinking the visor
model would fit in the indent at the driver's side visor in the ceiling or in the
ceiling to the rear of the front maplights/sunglass holder.

I installed one of these into my brother's car which was recently totalled. He
took it out before the car was junked. I'll be getting it from him in the next
couple of months when I get over to the west coast.
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xterrock said:
Just wondering if anyone has yet installed a homelink. I'm thinking the visor
model would fit in the indent at the driver's side visor in the ceiling or in the
ceiling to the rear of the front maplights/sunglass holder.

I thought about it, but was waiting for someone elese to do it first.
*Just a note*
If you do get one, make sure there is a little 'house' around the LED light.
This is the newer ones which take rolling codes that most of the newer
garage door openers use.

Older ones are plain like the one below.
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finally finished my garage door mod ...I just find the reception of it poor...i think I mean the range....

here are some pics..
old switch is removed

New wires sauldered in

New switch

Now attached

Finished product and now just a push of the bottom and garage opens

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I know this is an old post, but since I arrived here I will add my 2 cents.

It is a nice mod, but I think I would get a Nissan VDC switch (but for $20 I might get the radio shack). I guess you could piggy back of you existing switch, but it may cause some problem - don't know enough about it.

The homelink install solves the problem of power, and gives you 3 buttons (but it isn't portable like this one). Since they are on Ebay for $25, I think I will choose that option.

Homelink also gives you the range. My remote is clipped the the storage thing in the door, and it works. I park in the driveway so the door opens while I am getting out of the truck so I don't have to wait for to open. Maybe if I wanted the door opening while I was driving down the block, range would be more important to me.

Here is the homelink link. The only trick is thinning the headliner so you can snap it together.

After this I may add the sunglasses holder to my Off Road, which didn't come with it. I don't cutting into headliners, so maybe poking holes for the homelink will be a start.
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