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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I recently saw a post about a garage door opener mod at the following site:

http://2manytoyz.com/switch.html

It's a great write-up and pictures as well. I noticed he added the quick-disconnect and he said he added wires to the new switch and a mating connector. Does anybody have pictures or more info as to what wires were added and how or other ways to do it. I'd love to do this mod real soon!
 

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that's a sweet mod. good thinking
 

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i like the idea. I wonder how much range it cuts down being under the dash.

In my old jeep I mounted the switch under the dash and it cut the range down considerably. No one could see it and I just knew where it was to push. Might be a thought to try holding it under there and pushing the button to see if your range is the same.

I like this idea though and might give it a go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If anybody decides to do this mod, could you post pictures of the steps you took (wiring, etc). Thanks!
 

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I did this same mod a while back: http://thenewx.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=2061&highlight=garage
After a while I moved the push button switch to the bank of switches to the right of the 4-Hi/Lo selector. I also added a quick disconnect and moved the garage opener into my glove box. Ran the wire over the back wall of the glove (there is a gap) and behind the dash. Fished the other end of the wire from the switch and reconnected. Still hidden in the glove box, but can be removed to change battery. Used the Dremel to neaten up where the wire comes out of the opener case. Not much loss of range, but seems to have dead spots close to the door, however, our garage opener has been picky lately, and even holding an opener up over the dash and pointing at the door sometimes doesn't open it, so relocating it to the glovebox probably is not to blame.
 

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here is mine: cool mod, i placed the clicker in the pillar where there is less wire traffic...no range lost...awesome mod...
 

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This is still the part that confuses me

I wanted my garage remote control to be easily removed from my vehicle. So I opted to add a quick disconnect. This was soldered directly to the button connections on the circuit board. An ohmmeter verified that I was on the correct contacts.


How do you know which parts to test and which is the switch? I am sure this is easy if I just don't know what to look for.
 

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I took the circuit board and connected my ohmeter to the wire tracings on the underneath side of the switch. When I depressed the microswitch, I was able to determine which of the terminals completed the circuit. These were the points that I soldered wire to after removing the switch from the circuit board. I then added some quick disconnects on each end of the wires and the corresponding disconnect on the piece of wire leading to the new remote mounted switch. This way when the opener needs a new battery, I can disconnect from the switch and pull the opener out in the open to change batteries. I figured this out aftermistakenly soldering the wires to the terminals of the switch before mounting it in the dash. Had to cut it in the middle and splice after putting the blank back in the dash w/ the new switch.

The microswitch on the circuit board is just a tiny little black push button. No other part on the circuit board will look like this. If you press it w/ something pointed, you will feel it depress. Just like reset buttons on Palm devices, etc.
 

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Psted this twice

buxwheat
I have the same remote as you so I tried this mod, but I ran into the problem that when I install the battery to the remote without pushing the button the garage door opens.....do have a pic to where you souldered your wires...
I pulled the original switch off and it was souldered at 2 points so I just connected the wires to them and without pushing the button the garage opens....

Any Advice?

thanks
 

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I'll dig my remote out of the glove box and see if I can get a better pic, but I would guess that your soldering joints might have flowed over and shorted the ciruit. Use your ohmeter and check the two tracings. If it shows continuity w/o the switch being pressed, you have a short. (Battery needs to be in place to have a complete ciruit.)

I posted over on the other post that you replied to. That one has the pictures. The two terminals I soldered to are the two below the left edge of the blade, one below the other and slightly diagonal from each other. Viewed from the top side of the board (w/ microswitch showing) they are the two terminals on the right. Switch is outlined in white, activating terminals are on the opposite side of where it says SW1. Hope this helps.
 
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