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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Anyone else done an install yet? Need additional hardware?
Just did the install CSF rad fits perfectly!
You do need (3) additional bolts. All three are the same diameter M6, 15mm long and 1.0 pitch (6Mx1.0x15). Super easy to access even after rad is installed. You can do install without them and put them in later.

(2) of the bolts hold the plastic shroud to the rad top edge
(1) bolt holds the electric fan to the top rad edge

I'll measure their diameter and length but it's the very common size used through the vehicle. For example same as the ones holding our headlights in. I reused ones I had sitting around the garage.

I'll post pics and more tech info once I measure them.
 

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damnit. I should probably replace my radiator. I'm having overheating issues again.
 

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Can anyone confirm the coolant temperature dropped after installing the radiator? I've been reading a lot of aluminum vs copper radiator. Seems like they all say copper rad cools better than aluminum, but aluminum rad is lighter... Lighter is good, but I need the cooling part more.
 

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Can anyone confirm the coolant temperature dropped after installing the radiator? I've been reading a lot of aluminum vs copper radiator. Seems like they all say copper rad cools better than aluminum, but aluminum rad is lighter... Lighter is good, but I need the cooling part more.
The radiator alone will not lower your running temperature - you will need to change the thermostat to accomplish that. I believe some owners are installing the 370z thermostat? Mine runs right where it did before with the Calsonic, about 195 degrees - this is with the all aluminum CSF radiator installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
The radiator alone will not lower your running temperature - you will need to change the thermostat to accomplish that.
This is not true.

You can improve the cooling efficiency of your cooling system by using products such as these CSF radiators as they should remove more heat from the coolant than OEM versions.

Decent explanation

"If you're having overheating problems, check the cooling system thoroughly and if all is well, upgrade the radiator, fans or even the water pump -- not the thermostat. If your coolant gauge never goes above normal then your cooling system is adequate for your use of the car."
 

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"If you're having overheating problems, check the cooling system thoroughly and if all is well, upgrade the radiator, fans or even the water pump -- not the thermostat. If your coolant gauge never goes above normal then your cooling system is adequate for your use of the car."


In other words, if it isn't broken... it won't lower your temps at all. If its broken (somehow clogged/etc), then yes, this will lower them back down to the OEM operating temp. But you wont get any lower than the thermostat that's installed.
If you are somehow over-working it (EXTREME heat, hot trans, towing, no airflow, etc) to where it gets above normal operating temp, then this may help you get back down to the normal operating temp, but once again... never below the thermostat's temp.

So Pineapples.... are you above normal temps and trying to fix a problem, or are you at normal temps and wanting it cooler?
 

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I run a Scanguage II on my dash and constantly monitor the water temperature. Today I arrived home from a 2500 mile trip - first long trip with the CSF installed. I saw no difference in water temperature running the CSF as compared to the factory calsonic. Once warm, it pretty much always stays at 195 degrees (as I would have expected).

I also monitor the ATF temp - couple of years ago I welded a bung/sensor in the pan, and have an Autometer gauge mounted in the dash. After the long trip, over the same route and mountain passes (continental divide) that I cross a couple of times a year, I have to say that I am a bit underwhelmed with the ATF cooling of the CSF as compared to the factory Calsonic design. I also have a Derale fan mounted on the ATF air-cooling coil out front, which I was running in the high mountains.

While the CSF performance was still acceptable for the ATF cooling, it has prompted me to reach out to CSF for a better understanding of the ATF heat exchanger design inside the radiator. Last year I sent an email to CSF and rec'd no response. I plan to follow up with a phone call this week.
 

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I now understand from CSF that the internal ATF cooler is " a 4-plate liquid-oil independent & turbulated transmission cooler that has been beefed up with some additional support bracing." Also, it is constructed of aluminum.

The picture below (top) is a generally similar design with only three plates, while the other drawing (bottom) is representative of the factory Calsonic design.

 

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Discussion Starter #39
Note: You may need to supply (3) M6x1.0 15mm bolts for where the upper shroud and fan mount to the radiator. CSF has started including them but this doesn't guarantee the rad you get will have them included.
 
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