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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
I'll be removing my FSB soon. Another question related to travel since now freed up from the FSB removal. Is anyone running the SPC Radflo Eibach 600lb coilover kit WITH any added small spacer, like 1"? My coil bucket has been shaved, so no CBC worries, but what about CV bind at full droop?

Need just a bit more clearance. Thanks guys, again....

EDIT: Just talked to Greg at PRG since I got the Advanced kit from him. His recommendation since each truck is slightly different in susp tolerances plus these kits were made with safe allowances for longevity, is to measure:

a) jack up and remove front tire
b) remove lower shock bolt and let susp droop fully, make sure nothing is binding (coil bucket, FSB)
c) turn the axle MANUALLY until you feel the cv starting to bind, then come up 1/2", cv should be smooth again when turning the axle.
d) measure the shock mount on LCA to the shock bolt hole.
e) this measurement to give them the proper 'safe' spacer sizing to use. Per Greg he can make any spacer with this measurement.

Hope this helps. Don't just guess on what will work since each truck can be a little different.

Hey I'm also not responsible for any miscalculations here, measure yourself.
 

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I'll be removing my FSB soon. Another question related to travel since now freed up from the FSB removal. Is anyone running the SPC Radflo Eibach 600lb coilover kit WITH any added small spacer, like 1"? My coil bucket has been shaved, so no CBC worries, but what about CV bind at full droop?

Need just a bit more clearance. Thanks guys, again....

EDIT: Just talked to Greg at PRG since I got the Advanced kit from him. His recommendation since each truck is slightly different in susp tolerances plus these kits were made with safe allowances for longevity, is to measure:

a) jack up and remove front tire
b) remove lower shock bolt and let susp droop fully, make sure nothing is binding (coil bucket, FSB)
c) turn the axle MANUALLY until you feel the cv starting to bind, then come up 1/2", cv should be smooth again when turning the axle.
d) measure the shock mount on LCA to the shock bolt hole.
e) this measurement to give them the proper 'safe' spacer sizing to use. Per Greg he can make any spacer with this measurement.

Hope this helps. Don't just guess on what will work since each truck can be a little different.

Hey I'm also not responsible for any miscalculations here, measure yourself.
This is good advice. The traditional wisdom is that you can't eek more than 3" of lift out of these trucks without titan swapping. But I'm running nearly 3.5" with no CBC or binding. There are a lot of instances where there are some extreme variances in these trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
This is good advice. The traditional wisdom is that you can't eek more than 3" of lift out of these trucks without titan swapping. But I'm running nearly 3.5" with no CBC or binding. There are a lot of instances where there are some extreme variances in these trucks.
With that set up at 3+, do you DD your truck, i.e. put decent miles on it? Another thing mentioned by Greg was, even if the CV is not binding the inner boot can be pinched enough to tear first. Boot should be in good pliable condition.
 

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With that set up at 3+, do you DD your truck, i.e. put decent miles on it? Another thing mentioned by Greg was, even if the CV is not binding the inner boot can be pinched enough to tear first. Boot should be in good pliable condition.
I DD it, though likely not as much as other people. I take the train to work so it's only used to commute to and from the train station most weekdays.
 

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I'll be removing my FSB soon. Another question related to travel since now freed up from the FSB removal. Is anyone running the SPC Radflo Eibach 600lb coilover kit WITH any added small spacer, like 1"? My coil bucket has been shaved, so no CBC worries, but what about CV bind at full droop?

Need just a bit more clearance. Thanks guys, again....

EDIT: Just talked to Greg at PRG since I got the Advanced kit from him. His recommendation since each truck is slightly different in susp tolerances plus these kits were made with safe allowances for longevity, is to measure:

a) jack up and remove front tire
b) remove lower shock bolt and let susp droop fully, make sure nothing is binding (coil bucket, FSB)
c) turn the axle MANUALLY until you feel the cv starting to bind, then come up 1/2", cv should be smooth again when turning the axle.
d) measure the shock mount on LCA to the shock bolt hole.
e) this measurement to give them the proper 'safe' spacer sizing to use. Per Greg he can make any spacer with this measurement.

Hope this helps. Don't just guess on what will work since each truck can be a little different.

Hey I'm also not responsible for any miscalculations here, measure yourself.
I have the same PRG lift as OP and had room for a custom 1 1/4" spacer. That gave me full droop without any chance of CV bind or ball joint destruction. Didn't even have to adjust the Radflos from factory 2" setting to get 3 1/2" lift and smooth ride over stock. Also got my config info from Greg when I ordered. Hell of a guy!! Ditto on the quote for variances in X specs. Measure your own rig, even if it's just to be in the know, cuz they're all unique. Now I think it's time to get rid of my FSB.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
FSB removed, oh yeah definitely feel the difference on cornering and sharp turns. Makes steering feel slower too. This is even with my Radflos w 600 lb springs, stock bumper for now. Will test droop and traction at Big Bear this weekend, White Mtn etc. Should help front articulation.
 

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Just removed my fsb few days ago. Haven’t been out on the highway with it like that yet, but slower streets and housing tracks don’t feel toooo bad. Smoother yes, but as my dd, I’ll need time on that. Full articulation isn’t a big requirement on the street, unless I have to hop the curb to avoid the NY idiots. Too bad I can’t lean into curves like my atv.


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I've debated this, but I think I do too much city driving, too many times where having to turn/swerve abruptly occur, and I drive too fast on the HW
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yeah it really depends on the most use, handling DOES change. I just came back from wheeling and FSB-delete first time helped quite a bit on flex and traction, happy with that! But, driving up and down those mtn roads did give more roll, sluggish, you do need to adjust driving style. And I’m already on Radflos 600lb springs. With stock spring at about 450lbs could be dangerous.

But, here was one observation I found. At first I aired up to 32 psi on my KO2s on the way down, steering and handling still sluggish. Then I aired up to 40 psi, recommended for daily drives, big improvement! Those taller sidewalls will make a difference with air pressure alone. Steering was sharper, handling less lean on turn-in. Worth a try.
 

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Yeah it really depends on the most use, handling DOES change. I just came back from wheeling and FSB-delete first time helped quite a bit on flex and traction, happy with that! But, driving up and down those mtn roads did give more roll, sluggish, you do need to adjust driving style. And I’m already on Radflos 600lb springs. With stock spring at about 450lbs could be dangerous.



But, here was one observation I found. At first I aired up to 32 psi on my KO2s on the way down, steering and handling still sluggish. Then I aired up to 40 psi, recommended for daily drives, big improvement! Those taller sidewalls will make a difference with air pressure alone. Steering was sharper, handling less lean on turn-in. Worth a try.

I’ve got basically the same setup you do. Radflo with 600lb and stock bumper (for now). I’m aired at 34 for dd on cooper disc. AT3’s. Was thinking I’d keep them a little soft for extra cushion but with no fsb now, I’ll try your 40 and see what happens.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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IMO I don't think the front sway should be removed unless someone is running AM coilovers with at least 600lb springs. I first took mine off 2 years ago when I put on my MK84 setup with 650lb springs and haven't ran it since. Your handling will change but the stiffer springs have prevented most body roll for me and I respond to my fire department calls with my rig so I'm going fairly fast with it. I'm now TS'ed with Radflos with 650lb springs and feel even more stable now. I will say though that taking off the front sway was one of my biggest offroad benefit mods behind the rear sway bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I will upgrade to 650s once I have my Warn and Hefty alum installed. That’s a sure thing. Again, like most recommendations here if you’re on stock springs don’t do it, too risky.

On that note the RSB doesn’t affect much either way, mines been gone for a while now.
 
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