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Discussion Starter #1
Guys, I've tried searching for my specific question, didn't seem to find any solid answer. I'm on the Radflo coilovers, 600 lb springs, SPC UCA, basically the PRG Advanced kit which gives me about 2.5" lift. Rear has Deaver AALs, Bilsteins. Stock front bumper. My question is related to crawling downhills with moderate articulation. My front swaybar is still on, and I've read that with it off I can get about 2" more 'stuff' into the wheel wells, i.e. better articulation. So, with the bar off going into a good sized dip, let's say passenger front, will the truck drop into it much softer and give more tendency to tip? Or, with the better articulation the pass front wheel will drop more and stop the tip?

I haven't compared, but hoping the bar off would be best since I'm on those 600 lb springs, i.e. won't be too tippy vs stock. With my Hefty alum front coming soon, I may upgrade to 650 lbs. Thoughts??
 

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With the sway bar off, you gain more articulation which will allow the tire going into a dip to hit the ground easier and keep you more stable. Taking the sway bar off also translates to a smoother highway ride as larger potholes aren't as jarring. But there will be more "roll" in the truck on pavement around turns and such. It's something you'll get used to.

I'm running 600lb springs with a Hefty aluminum bumper and winch and no sway bar. I think it's the perfect setup.
 

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+1

Taking the sway off, will help against tipping over, since the front tires can move freely, and independently from each other.

So in other words, in your case, the "falling" front right (passenger) tire, can travel further down and "meet" ground even if the front left tire is pushed up by a rock. And this will happen more easily without the sway bar.

In these flexing photos :), i have the front sway deleted. If it wasn't deleted, the front left tire won't be able to drop down "as much" and that will be compensated by more body roll to stabilize the car.

What i am trying to prove, is though limited, deleting the sway will help with better flexibility and hence better stability.
 

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^^ It helps with tipping over at slow speeds on uneven terrain off pavement.

On pavement at highway speeds, you have a LOT more body roll. If you daily-drive your Xterra and put a lot of highway miles on it, I would not take it off. It takes away your ability to swerve hard on the highway really, even after getting used to the no-swaybar dynamics.
 

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On pavement at highway speeds, you have a LOT more body roll. If you daily-drive your Xterra and put a lot of highway miles on it, I would not take it off. It takes away your ability to swerve hard on the highway really, even after getting used to the no-swaybar dynamics.
I disagree. I dd my truck and find myself at highway speed regularly and drive the truck just as aggressively now as I did before I took it off. I did take me a LONG time to get used to not have a front sway bar on though. There's more roll taking sharp turns and weaving through highway traffic. Once you've trained yourself to anticipate it, you stop noticing it altogether.

To the OP, It's not a permanent decision. You can always take it off, store it in your garage or a closet and put it back on if you don't like it.
 

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I disagree. I dd my truck and find myself at highway speed regularly and drive the truck just as aggressively now as I did before I took it off
I've heard this from others as well lol. I wonder what the difference is. I am Titan Swapped and 650# springs (full armor though) but I know that if I try to swerve from one lane to another lane and back at 65mph I'll be in the ditch. I have to take on-ramps and S-curves slower. Traction control comes on if I run too hard. The body roll makes it feel like the G-forces are 2x higher than they really are.
 

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I disagree. I dd my truck and find myself at highway speed regularly and drive the truck just as aggressively now as I did before I took it off. I did take me a LONG time to get used to not have a front sway bar on though. There's more roll taking sharp turns and weaving through highway traffic. Once you've trained yourself to anticipate it, you stop noticing it altogether.

To the OP, It's not a permanent decision. You can always take it off, store it in your garage or a closet and put it back on if you don't like it.
Agree...... i got used to the front sway delete quite fast, perhaps the desert driving makes it easier to get used to it...

once you get over it mentally, it is quite fun :).... i am always experimenting with it, and can't say so far it put me in a dangerous situation.

yes the traction control does kick in more often, but nothing alarming.

One of the main reason i took it off, is the awkward angles at which the sway links sit with a 2.5" lift. And also it looks cleaner :)
 

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I've heard this from others as well lol. I wonder what the difference is. I am Titan Swapped and 650# springs (full armor though) but I know that if I try to swerve from one lane to another lane and back at 65mph I'll be in the ditch. I have to take on-ramps and S-curves slower. Traction control comes on if I run too hard. The body roll makes it feel like the G-forces are 2x higher than they really are.
I'm not Titan swapped and I have softer springs but otherwise, basically the same setup. You'd think the wider stance of the TS would make it better, not worse. Unless your lift is also cranked up higher as well? I'm maxed out at 3".
 

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I have brand new stock springs, 2" spacers, bilstein 5100s and SPC UCA. Broke endlinks first time on the trail post lift and removed the FSB. Seemed fine until I had to make an emergency maneuver on the highway. I am making extended length links now to put the FSB back on. The vehicle is not nearly as capable on road when needing to make these maneuvers. Stiffer springs will help a bit.

As mentioned, the FSB is really easy to remove, give it a shot and see how you feel. I thought it was fine until I needed it so you should try to actually test it in a situation which it would help.
 

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I have brand new stock springs, 2" spacers, bilstein 5100s and SPC UCA. Broke endlinks first time on the trail post lift and removed the FSB. Seemed fine until I had to make an emergency maneuver on the highway. I am making extended length links now to put the FSB back on. The vehicle is not nearly as capable on road when needing to make these maneuvers. Stiffer springs will help a bit.

As mentioned, the FSB is really easy to remove, give it a shot and see how you feel. I thought it was fine until I needed it so you should try to actually test it in a situation which it would help.
Agreed. The stock springs are rated at something like 400lbs. Way too soft to consider taking the sway bar off.
 

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I've heard this from others as well lol. I wonder what the difference is. I am Titan Swapped and 650# springs (full armor though) but I know that if I try to swerve from one lane to another lane and back at 65mph I'll be in the ditch. I have to take on-ramps and S-curves slower. Traction control comes on if I run too hard. The body roll makes it feel like the G-forces are 2x higher than they really are.
Changing this message. I took the sway bar off and the truck drives way better than with it. Same day I removed I went out on the interstate until I got to a clear section to practice emergency lane changing, slowly at first and then getting more aggressive with it. I had no issue with it, I am still running the rear sway bar which might be why, or it's 13 years experience driving the same truck, at this point I can put it exactly where I want it on the road.
 

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Quite a fair number of Frontiers have gone the "disconnect" route before removal as pulling a sway link is faster/easier to test it out on the street.
However the Frontier is far less tippy than an X (stock-ish config) without all that body above the belt line and extra 2ft wheelbase...
But try that before pulling the entire sway bar to see how you like the on-road handling.

I have brand new stock springs, 2" spacers, bilstein 5100s and SPC UCA. Broke endlinks first time on the trail post lift and removed the FSB. Seemed fine until I had to make an emergency maneuver on the highway. I am making extended length links now to put the FSB back on. The vehicle is not nearly as capable on road when needing to make these maneuvers. Stiffer springs will help a bit...
PRG has extended sway links (listed under Titan suspension) that are IIRC 1" - 2" longer over stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Great feedbacks! Couple of things, I wonder if going 650 lbs will help lessen the on-road wallow vs my 600. I do only have the Hefty alum front bumper and Warn winch so not sure if that rate is needed. Second thing, someone mentioned disconnecting an end link, doesn’t that loose FSB end interfere with the LCA on full travel? Last, I could r/r the FSB each time but man that’s a pain since it’s behind my Shrock rad skid, bolts hard to get to. But this maybe the only best option since I still DD mine.

Hey does anyone make a thinner FSB or another Nissan unit that fits??
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Quite a fair number of Frontiers have gone the "disconnect" route before removal as pulling a sway link is faster/easier to test it out on the street.
However the Frontier is far less tippy than an X (stock-ish config) without all that body above the belt line and extra 2ft wheelbase...
But try that before pulling the entire sway bar to see how you like the on-road handling.

PRG has extended sway links (listed under Titan suspension) that are IIRC 1" - 2" longer over stock.
Wait a min, I wonder if these PRG extended links can be used giving more clearance by removing an endlink and not have any LCA interference on this ‘disconnect’ mode. Maybe worth a try?

A disconnect is best of what I’m looking for if that’s possible.
 

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A disconnect is best of what I’m looking for if that’s possible.
It's not. Removing it just isn't that big of a deal. Take it off, drive it for a week, and decide. You can't disconnect it and wheel with it on, you'll find yourself in a big mess. If you wheel, you will find the sway bar delete is one of the best mods you can do, and frankly IMO makes street driving better too.
 

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Wait a min, I wonder if these PRG extended links can be used giving more clearance by removing an endlink and not have any LCA interference on this ‘disconnect’ mode. Maybe worth a try?

A disconnect is best of what I’m looking for if that’s possible.
Unfortunately, no. The sway bar is caught between the tie rod and the LCA. The only way to have it disconnected at the end links is to remove it completely. Removing it every time you wheel would require removing the rad skid. I don't think there's enough clearance to pull it through.
 

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I do not have a Titan Swap but run 1" wheel spacers. I have 2.5" Radflo's with 650 lb springs and full armor but no winch. I live in the Santa Cruz mountains and daily drive my X on very narrow twisting roads. The on road ride is much smoother, the steering is lighter and any additional body roll is so slight that I cannot feel it. As others have said.... an emergency swerve would be get my attention but I don't drive the X like a sports car, I NEVER tail gate and I am a careful driver and avoid those situations.

I drove a friends X in Moab last year that still had both anti sway bars on it and the ride was terrible! It was harsh on every small bump and the steering took way more effort than my rig. I will NEVER put the anti sway bars back on the front or rear of my X.

IMHO, the 650 lb springs reduce body roll enough to where the anti sway bars are not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just did Broken Arrow, Cliffhanger, Schnebly at Sedona. Front sway still attached, still no problems really. I could tell at a few turn and drop sections an FSB-delete would help lessen the tippiness. But with the 33” KO2s at 20 psi, crawled up everything...happy!

Will definitely do the delete next wheeling, every little bit helps.
 
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