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Discussion Starter #1
I found some take off 2005 shocks/ struts for $30 and rough country 2 in add a leaf.
he mentioned he put the struts back together and wasn’t sure they are correct. A couple questions. I have a 2011 S 215,000 miles and st
Can you tell by the pics of these are correctly put together?
Since they are 15 years old are they still good?

I plan on putting spacer lift up front, is there a difference between rough country $69 and PRG$119?
If I bought GS regular leaf springs and add the add a leaf is that’s better idea than getting shackles and not using the add a leaf?
I don’t do any off road other than camping amd some dirt trails.
 

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If the suspension is still original I would strongly recommend into something different than spacers and shackles.

Maybe a Nisstec 2" Kit with AAL combined with Bilstein 5100 adjusted to 0.5" lift up front.
That isn't a terrible setup above and the thread it is in answers most of your questions.

To address them directly:

You should probably avoid 15 year old shocks regardless of whether or not they are correctly assembled, even relatively unused the seals are drying out, oil is degraded, isolator is drying out, and if heavily used spring is heavily worn.

RC 2.5" spacer doesn't have a great rep on here, as someone in another thread pointed out. PRG or Nisstec billet will be far better quality. If you use 2" spacers you should buy SPC or other high clearance aftermarket upper control arm or risk slight coil bucket contact. 2.5" spacer w/o UCA=massive contact.

Don't use shackles alone to lift rear, it flattens the leafs & these trucks need more support in back anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I has hoping they would still be good but I figured being 15 years old might be an issue but the spring/coil should still be good as it has 10k on it.
 

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They seem to be put together correctly from the pics you provided, nothing jumps out. The age shouldn't matter as long as they're not rusted up and the rubber bushings and pads aren't dried out and rotted from being left outside. Miles are far more important than age. The internals are (or should be) sealed off from outside air, so the internals should be fine. It's an easy enough job to replace them yourself so why not give them a run.

For the spacer lift - a spacer is a spacer. It's just a chunk of metal that sits on top of your strut, there's no difference there. For the rear, you're looking at with an add a leaf, which stiffen and harshen the ride quite a bit, or a shackle lift, which as said above flatten out your springs, which isn't good. I view spacer lifts as a temporary measure until you can afford to do it "right." Spacer lifts in general tend to suck. Some guys love them, most hate them. I've heard of guys combining a spacer with Bilstein 5100's on the 0" lift ring and they claim it rides like factory. I'm skeptical. My current X came with a Calmini 2 or 2.5" spacer lift with a double add a leaf in the rear. I HATED the way it rode with a passion, it almost made me sell it immediately, I even listed it on Marketplace for dirt cheap for a short time. I had control arm to coil bucket contact any time the front suspension would go off a small bump, the rear basically had no travel but I suspect the previous owner never installed lift shocks in the rear, so that's something. They also never corrected the driveline angle after the lift so I had a hard vibration at 35 mph. There's more to consider than just tossing a spacer in there. I just hated it so much. Then I found a set of OEM struts, rear springs and shocks from a '15 P4X which I swapped out because this is just a fun budget build and holy cow does it ride a million times better.

The best advice is to not lift until you can afford an actual lift, which lifts the X with springs, not spacers. But to each their own...
 

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I echo what @Tlrtucker said. I had my truck for 12 years before I eventually put a suspension lift kit on it. I was tempted to put a spacer up front but after reading so many horror stories about CBC (coil bucket contact), I decided to hold off and do it right the first time (it only took me 12 years to save up for the kit lol). But in the end, it is your truck and do what makes you happy.
 

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If like you say, you don't do any off-roading, just camping on dirt roads then I wouldn't waste your money on a lift at all.
At 215,000 miles your stock springs are pretty much done as they are soft to begin with.
The $30 takeoff's will be fine for you and the springs will be in much better shape. You really need to address the rear though as the stock springs are pretty sacked out at 100K.
The best bet would be a new set of springs but if you can't swing that then a single Add-A-Leaf would really help as long as you aren't too loaded down then you need a double AAL.
When I got my 2011 the rear springs would bottom out on everything and I really didn't know what direction I would go so I bought a used single AAL and 1/2" front spacer from a member here for cheap. It did help a lot, especially when empty but with a full load of camping gear or rough off-road it still bottoms out quite a bit and I wish I had at minimum the double AAL. THe 1/2" spacer is just to level the front from the 1" lift from the single AAL.

Also check your rear springs before buying anything as they are well known to crack. Nissan didn't use the best spec for the rear springs.
 

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Someone posted this thread in another post.

1) Nisstec:
Spacer lifts are not the enemy by themselves. The problem comes when people do not understand how they work and appropriately account for that.

In an IFS 4wd vehicle the front differential is stationary & connected to the wheels via CV shafts. The upper and lower control arms move up & down with a spring in the middle (except torsion bar systems).

The arms travel up and down as a unit connected to the wheel by the knuckle. Spacers and coilovers lift the vehicle by pushing the entire wheel assembly & arms down as a unit through the strut.

Top spacers push the entire strut down, in theory not changing downtravel until they bind, potentially costing some up or compression travel if they are tall enough (you need to add extended bumpstops to keep the strut from damaging itself under compression).

Internal spacers, coilovers, & Bilstein 5100's work by increasing spring preload & the distance the strut or coilover is extended in its travel. This setup costs down-travel.

Down-travel is one of the major determinants of ride quality. The x has around 5.8" of travel stock. If you have 2.7" of travel each way and take away 2" of down-travel you now only have .7" of travel being forced downward at a faster rate by higher spring preload. This results in harsh topout (clunking) and is why internal spacer lifts on stock struts are a junk idea and result in horrible ride.

Bil 5100's have extended shaft travel and will yield just over 7" of travel but this is not enough to go to their max lift setting of 2" without ruining the ride.

Radflo has extended & stock travel options. They are the same except extended travel removes an internal travel stop (that limits travel to prevent CBC & binding at full droop).

To sum up everything above, the 2 things that destroy the ride are removing down-travel & binding.

The three points where this system can bind on our vehicle are the cv's, ball joints, and the coil bucket (where the upper portion of the strut attaches to the frame) contacting the upper control arm.

Simply adding a spacer is fine, but the size & type is important.

You will have zero problems (period, ever, in theory) if you keep a lift to 1.5" & below top spacer or extended spring on extended travel strut (5100, OME, etc) on these trucks. No CBC, no need for extended brakelines or UCA's.

At 2" you may get CBC & should add aftermarket upper control arms (SPC & clones, Total Chaos, etc), & extended brake lines & bump stops. You should definitely add these things for anything over 2" & to make full use of your UCA's & increase articulation add extended travel coilovers.

With extended travel struts (Radflo, PRG, etc) & UCA's you can theoretically get 7.4" of travel out of an X as they account for CBC while maintaining full down-travel.

This is why the cheapest Nisstec kit costs less than $200 & the middle cost one (with upgraded shocks & a fully addressed rear lift) costs well over $1000, & top end is over $2k.
 

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Simply adding a spacer is fine, but the size & type is important.

You will have zero problems (period, ever, in theory) if you keep a lift to 1.5" & below top spacer or extended spring on extended travel strut (5100, OME, etc) on these trucks. No CBC, no need for extended brakelines or UCA's.
ONLY if you take care of all the issues that arise from 'simply adding a spacer.' You will absolutely need an alignment, so there's another $100, but that's with any lift. You'll very likely also need new cam bolts for the LCA's, so there's another $65. You'll also need to raise your bump stops in the rear (not sure about the front, tbh), so there's an added expense.

It's not much, but for those on a super tight budget need to anticipate those costs. That $170 lift kit kit can become a $400 lift pretty quickly, and you'll still have a less than desirable ride quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am going to keep it stock height until I am in the market for new tires. I will try these shocks out and get general springs leaf springs and maybe wheel spacers.
On to the next project of painting the wheels and all the plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I ran across these Ironman leaf springs that give a 2 in lift. For $199 free shipping it is not much more than general springs.
Are they considered heavy duty/stiffer or give a ride like stock? I would also lift the front 2 in
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here are some pics of the bottom, I noticed some plastic pieces broke/ cracked. Will this cause any issues?
133555
133556
 

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Replaced my front springs (1 broke, fall of 2020) and the struts. Didn't bother with the plastic at the bottom of the spring. The missing plastic made no difference.
133558
 
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