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Discussion Starter #1
Well, first thing first, Stock tires they sell with the X. Are pretty cheap, if you drive gravel. grrrrrrrrr.

Had a nice flat tire, Dug out the So called Jack & Wrench. How in the heck do you Make it work with such a short bar. Based on the Writing it goes under Axle. That short wrench is just even with the Frame. What a pain. Heck of a work out, just to turn the dang thing.


Question will a HIGh Lift Jack, work on the Factory Hitch? to lift Rear end up? to change tires???.. Want to either Mod, the Jack Or carry highlift.

any thoughts?

Will be buying New 4 new tires this week, & ditching the Dealer junk tires.

fun fun fun....
 

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Hey,

There are inflating lifts that will make your job easier w/o guessing if the high lift is going to do any damage. You hook the lift to the exhaust and keep the car running. The car will rise eventually :)
 

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Get some sliders and a high lift. Also carry some ratchet straps so you can strap the axle up before you try to lift it.
 

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A cheaper way to go than sliders and a hi-lift is to buy a bottle jack. I have a 20-ton bottle jack that I keep in the cargo area for on-road flats. Just make sure you buy one with an appropriate lift range.

Sliders and a hi-lift are great if you plan on doing some moderate to hard-core wheeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Chuckles, ah.. Since the Current sliders that came with the X, are for Fluff only. Will have to wait for the shrock sliders. ( will buy). But going to need to have A Jack, soon. IF I drive on Gravel roads with the current Stealership stock Junk tires.

that bottle jack, sounds like more of a idea. Just need a long Crank handle to fit under the X.

I used the Axle as a safe lifting point. Is there Others? Rather use the high lift on the Hitch & just raise up the entire Back end! Just fear of Bending the Hitch???..


hope I am not the only one that found the Tools of the X to be junk. Sure would not be easy for a Real skinny female driver, or skinny Male. :)
 

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I have never tried using anything that came with the X except the duct tape, which yes, it was junk.

You could lift the rear end from the hitch with a highlift, but that would only help you if you have a flat in the rear.

Lifting from the axle is best for changing the tire as you don't have to lift as far. If you lift from the frame, you have to lift it high enough to get the tire off the ground. Not too hard to do for the front, but the rear can have a good bit of travel. That is why I suggest having ratchet straps.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Muzikman said:
I have never tried using anything that came with the X except the duct tape, which yes, it was junk.

You could lift the rear end from the hitch with a highlift, but that would only help you if you have a flat in the rear.

Lifting from the axle is best for changing the tire as you don't have to lift as far. If you lift from the frame, you have to lift it high enough to get the tire off the ground. Not too hard to do for the front, but the rear can have a good bit of travel. That is why I suggest having ratchet straps.
Thanks, Not sure on the Ratchet straps. Being this is the first X owned. Had full Size Bronco. easy to change tires.

Was seeking the lift for the rear, with high lift. GOOD to know, that it will be safe. Will Crawl under the front & see how much of a pain that will be. For future use.

So far getting a crash coarse in the The X. But love the X, Slept inside Saturday twin Air mattress does fit, but have to remove the seat cushions for full good flat fit. Was really nice, while it Poured rain.

Thanks for all the Input. I's got long ways to go, to be one with the " X " :)
 

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I have lifted my X with the hi-lift from the rear hitch--no problem. But lifting from the sliders couldn't be easier.

Hey Muzikman, could you explain the use of the ratchet strap for lifting from the axle? Might seem obvious, but I'm not sure exactly what you mean.
 

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Ok, you are not really lifting from the axle with the ratchet straps.

When you lift from the frame and you have a decent amount of flex, you end up just lifting the frame and body, but the tire stays on the ground.

What you do to solve this problem is get a good set of ratchet straps and strap the axle to the frame wil it is still on the ground. Now when you lift from the frame the strap holds the axle up and the tire comes off the ground with out needing to jack up really high.

This is very common in the lifted Jeep world where even a 60" highlift won't get the tires off the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Now, that is crafty. on the Ratchet set up. makes sense, not to allow the axle to drop. One more goodie to add to The Real Tool set up for changing tires.
 

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Muzikman said:
When you lift from the frame and you have a decent amount of flex, you end up just lifting the frame and body, but the tire stays on the ground.

What you do to solve this problem is get a good set of ratchet straps and strap the axle to the frame wil it is still on the ground. Now when you lift from the frame the strap holds the axle up and the tire comes off the ground with out needing to jack up really high.
Simple, obvious when you break it down, that's a huge help.

(BTW, Muzikman, I got all my Craftsman, Dewalt, and other tools and I'm wrenching away on my Jeep. It's almost as much fun as wheeling. Thanks for the encouragement.)
 

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It is fun...but only when it's not your daily driver you are out there fixing.

And remember, there is a reason why most people spell Jeep with an H (Heep). It will be in constant repair. I am under the Jeep at least once a week these days and it's to fix things, not upgrade them. :)

I just put together my parts list for the Jeep, came out to over $4000. ;)
 

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i have the long trails currently on mine and they do great on gravel. i can go pretty fast without slipping or anything. better than the touring tires on my '89 buick. one of them cam off of the rim on a gravel road and sent me into a ditch :blackeye:
 

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AZ-Ted said:
A cheaper way to go than sliders and a hi-lift is to buy a bottle jack. I have a 20-ton bottle jack that I keep in the cargo area for on-road flats. Just make sure you buy one with an appropriate lift range.
20 ton? Do you really need this capacity or is it to get the right lift range? Not sure how much lift you need to get the rear wheel off the ground w/o strapping the axle up first, but my floor jack needs a couple of bricks on the saddle to raise mine high enough. I will probably pick up a bottle jack to carry around since I don't have sliders yet (I do have a Hi-Lift), but would like to keep it as light as possible, so what capacity/lift range is the minimum necessary? Also, if using a Hi-Lift w/ hitch, how do you rig this? Could be handy if you need to get both rear wheels up to put rocks/stuff under tires to get traction. Careful the jack doesn't slip! Use a Jackmate to get a good grip: http://www.bb4wa.com/articles/jackmate.htm http://www.bc4x4.com/quick/2002/jackmate/ http://www.jackmate.com/jm8000.php
 

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Any time you are jacking a vehicle, be it off road or on road, with a bottle jack, with a high lift or with a floor jack, you have to be careful.

One thing I like about the hi-lift is it lets you stay as far away from the vehicle as possible. A bottle jack, while probably great on a solid surface will not work as well off road and be quite a bit more dangerous as you have to crawl under the vehicle to use it (unless it has a really long handle).

For the hi-lift in the receiver, I just stick the end and jack it up. Works great. I would NEVER crawl under the vehicle while it was up like this, and if I am changing a tire, I will have something under the frame incase it falls (I do this no matter where I am jacking from with the hi-lift).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Muzikman said:
Any time you are jacking a vehicle, be it off road or on road, with a bottle jack, with a high lift or with a floor jack, you have to be careful.

One thing I like about the hi-lift is it lets you stay as far away from the vehicle as possible. A bottle jack, while probably great on a solid surface will not work as well off road and be quite a bit more dangerous as you have to crawl under the vehicle to use it (unless it has a really long handle).

For the hi-lift in the receiver, I just stick the end and jack it up. Works great. I would NEVER crawl under the vehicle while it was up like this, and if I am changing a tire, I will have something under the frame incase it falls (I do this no matter where I am jacking from with the hi-lift).
Them button pushers, would get out & actually test how things work!!!. Then they would have made a longer handle for the jack!!. I wonder if a Socket extension, Might work for this???.
The way its written on the instructions to jack up for a Rear flat tire. Jack has to be under Axle, with handle stilll under the Vehicle. Yep, Them Pricks made a short handle. Means you have to sit on your butt, with legs spread wide, to keep from the danger zone. Or I just did not Explore stuffing jack from the side in, if that would even fit under axle. ( I think the jack does not have a swivel?)

Your right about the High lift, its made with safety in mind, keeps you 3 feet away from the load. Once the load is up, I stuff a Good stiff Screw Driver or Needle nose pliers, into the Highlift. As a added Brake, if something should fail.

got me 10 ply tires, showing up Friday... That should keep me from having flats now. Those Tires they made for selling Cars!. are CRAP!!. Spending the extra money on good ones... For safety!!!...
 

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Yes the jack and jack handle suck. So does having the spare tire under the truck. Even if you are not mired in the mud getting the tire out from under the truck sucks as does putting the flat back under to get going again. I had a flat the other day while on the highway. I was frustrated changing it out and also concerned with the rub marks on the spare caused by the frame.

Yet another reason to get a shrock rear bumper...
 

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buxwheat, the 20-ton bottle jack has the lift range I need. I don't remember the specifics, but I made sure that it was low enough to fit under the rear axle and also be tall enough to lift a front tire off the ground from one of the "official" jacking points on the frame.

Muzikman, placing something under the frame is great, but I hope you are putting wheel chocks on the front tires while you are jacking the entire rear end off the ground with the Hi-Lift.
 
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