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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Threaded holes in aluminum, glue in the grooves. But automotive motion resistant hold? Flexible glue which can stretch and not break.
Metal stores, even Ace or Home Depot sell metal strips and aluminum strips.1” by 1 ft and longer.

good project if the product was at DIY price…half
 

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Midnight Blue 2007 X
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@Sturmvoik look at Bushwacker pocket style flares and find a similar wheel size on another SUV. Or cut Titan model? $285 for fronts. Made with ABS plastic. Softer, more flexible, bolt on look without bolt on. Must have flat area to double tape to steel.

View attachment 146847

mine have hole flaws, most likely next to too thin wall thickness. Small, but no holes are good. View from inside into the sun.
Out of 6 pieces, holes show in 3-4, smaller then below. They should be re-enforced for piece of mind (or manufactured better? inspected?)
View attachment 146845

thickening the wall on front right. This is all inside.
View attachment 146846
Hmmm thomething to think about for the next spring/summer project... I do need some kind of flares to prevent mud and dirt spraying all over my truck when wheeling

Shame about those holes there... forthat much you would think they would try to make it better and check before shipping.. but after I got threadless bolt from Nessticlifts I am no longer surprised by anything lol
Gas Office supplies Wood Bumper Nail
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
@Sturmvoik wow threadless bolts . Were they on sale?

the first post photos make the flares looks gray and match front bumper. Is bumper matching a better choice than black flares on mine? Anyone?
I like the darker color like in the orange demo photo:
Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Automotive tire

And black becomes dark gray when dirty and dusty
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@Sturmvoik wow threadless bolts . Were they on sale?

the first post photos make the flares looks gray and match front bumper. Is bumper matching a better choice than black flares on mine? Anyone?
I like the darker color like in the orange demo photo:
View attachment 146867
And black becomes dark gray when dirty and dusty
View attachment 146869
View attachment 146868
I dont know what they been smoking or drinking but thats what they send me the guys from Nisstec Lifts for my 2 inch body lift kit.. not only they send 8 bolts and not 10 but one of them is like that.

One of my frineds here from the local Xterra group has those flares we keep teasing him to lets use your to make something like that use them as a templet but dont think it will happen
 

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Looks very good !!!
ah and yeah.. !! just the bolts washers and all little stuf adds up really quick .. I know it as well from doing the skids and some other small fab stuff to my X..
but looking good.. I like the look more rugged more aggressive
it should help me with the mud splash AND this might be the more expensive solution to fix my rust spot at the gas tank...
Because now I could simply work on it.. fix remove all the rust patch it if I need to paint it black to seal it. Dont have to go crazy to color match and then the fenders will cover that spot
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Black metallic would be nice


From here

 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·

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I've know people who used VHB tape rather than drilling holes.
They usually found a way to put a bracket up the back or at the front/back edges to have a physical hold there.
Then just glued in screw heads or used plastic pop-in caps to fill the holes.

The idea stemmed from not being able to reach behind all the holes and the fact that self tapping stuff usually works its way free from sheetmetal while well nuts end up free spinning eventually lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Good info, benefits to different ways. My way is invasive with 5/8” holes but seems not invasive afterwards, rubber only touches sheet metal. Multiple on/off possible now and after final install. I needed fitting now. Paint later. If something happened to them and they have to come in the future, tape on sheet metal would be messy but without real damage, just time to clear off old tape. My way is not cheap. $2/well nut and 16 in front, 6 on back, and that’s not the end of fasteners. Bare bolts alone are $22 if I get 100 for $80. With nice button heads.
 

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Good grief, that's a lot of money and pain.. thanks for the detailed account, looks like you're well on your way to getting it done!
I remember when these flares first became available, they were seriously appealing. So glad that Rox gave us a detailed install account before I decided to buy anything. This install looks way more complicated than I expected!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
@AlbatrossCafe it’s a DIY with WTF moments, you need patience and I bought it because I wanted a thought out solution ready to be applied, not having to cut fiberglass because after 6 years of sales the fit is off.

it looks great but if you are doing the work, you will discover little issues which can be big issues to fix the right way. If you stress fiberglass, then it will break, where plastic would just deform. So you can’t take “close enough” shortcuts as the installing buyer.

no drill features could be done with flat surfaces to double side tape.
that horrible rear door overhang is just neglect and shortcut, door bottom should be flare end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Day 5:
Both front flares mounted. 200 miles driven with them. Horrible $ estimate for body shop to cut fiberglass to fit and paint (sand, primer, paint).

after evaluating my other options with less professional, or new, or my painting, I picked the shop I know, they will shape (cut a different contour) that last 6 inches from the fronts bottoms to actually follow Xterra contours. Then paint in matte black, not from cans. Car paint, not bed liner. Not my desire to paint such highly visible area.

backs? In 1 week I will be involved in cutting backs, I will have help, you don’t want to learn with cracked fiberglass they shows. By then my fronts will be painted so quitting/delaying then would be ok for backs. I have other commitments or I would be spraying instead of waiting a week.

as I said the looks are there, it’s just not install friendly, and contours are off all over the place, not a product I would be proud of and sell, it’s half done.
 

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This is all sounds and looks like alot of hustle and bustle for alot of money..
I am not afraid to do the work when its needed but I would felt that for so much money " you get what you pay for " meaning it would be a finished product with easy of install and all hardware provide
At this point I would probably consider doing something else perhaps and not going same route something simper and cheaper it might not look as good but it might cost me only $60 to $80 tops after is all finished and done.
 

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Not that I'm prepared to jump into these right now... following your journey with these flares so far makes me glad I am not! Kudos for them bringing them to market, but the vendor's molds and design definitely need some improvement. Adding a flexibility improver to the resin used, something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3gHLIT1kDs should make them easier to fit and as a bonus, improve resistance to cracking when they have branches, etc... dragged across them while slogging on trails out in the wild. OR start off with a resin designed for use in parts that need to have a better ability to flex than traditional resins, such as: https://www.totalboat.com/product/flexepox-flexible-epoxy-adhesive/?attribute_pa_size=32ouncekit&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqoPinIKD-gIVydSGCh2K9QH-EAQYAyABEgLCCvD_BwE
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The finished great looks don't tell the full story, hopefully there was benefit to others too, now and in the future, seeing my challenges.

And moving on to the challenges of the backs

1) Right door, the only flat mounting area of the set (and on the other door)
How to attach the top though? Surely not drilling into the door, hitting glass, etc, not so simple as front quarter panels
Plant Rectangle Body jewelry Tints and shades Jewellery


2) very backs. Focus on precision. Just 1 inch off. This is why trimming is recommended in instructions. To fix design flaws.
Plant Water Tire Hood Automotive tire


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Good start then 1" off
Plant Branch Water Sky Tree


Back to doors. This big overhang needs to be cutoff, leaving a big open end. The alternative is removing body mounted stock mini plastic flaps. Even without those stock pieces, big open dirt catchers on the doors? Who wants this? Direct path from wheel well debris traffic.
Hood Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Wood Automotive tire


A WTF moment. No you can't go lower around the lip, the velcro would be off the door then
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The overhang showing from outside
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