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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Those of u with extended radflos, how is the ride cranked up to 3"?? I dont kno how much the shop would charge to press out the bolts. Does the shock need to be dissambled all the way to press in m out the bolts? Also any markings on the radflo indicates they are extended
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the ride depends on the spring rate and how much downtravel you have, also what are you trying to compare them to?

i have no clue what bolts you are trying to press out so cant help you there.

again, no clue what bolts your talking about.

no markings, you have to measure the length. the difference between the extended and stock travel is the stock travel shocks have a spacer installed that limits the travel, so stock length coilovers can be converted to extended travel, they just need to be disassembled and the spacer removed.
 

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I think the bolts you're trying to "press out" you mean are the bolts for the top mount. On the PRG coilovers I believe there are no studs pressed in anywhere...they are bolts that you just bolt through the coil bucket and top plate.
 

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i think the 2.0 use regular bolts, never owned them so dont know. the 2.5 use bolts that are captured in the top aluminum mount. to install a spacer on the 2.5, you need to remove the top mount, which requires relieving the spring tension. then you can remove the bolts and install longer bolts for a spacer.
 

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i think the 2.0 use regular bolts, never owned them so dont know. the 2.5 use bolts that are captured in the top aluminum mount. to install a spacer on the 2.5, you need to remove the top mount, which requires relieving the spring tension. then you can remove the bolts and install longer bolts for a spacer.
I'm getting saw 2.0's...non titan swap.
 

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i think the 2.0 use regular bolts, never owned them so dont know. the 2.5 use bolts that are captured in the top aluminum mount. to install a spacer on the 2.5, you need to remove the top mount, which requires relieving the spring tension. then you can remove the bolts and install longer bolts for a spacer.
Thats not entirely correct. I have 2.5 radflos and I bolted the PRG spacers on mine with out any issue. The only thing that you need to change is the nut that goes ontop of the bolt. If you use the nuts that come with the 2.5 Radflos you will be unable to tighten them. IIRC the nuts Greg provides for 2.5 Radflos that will be used w/o a spacer are the self locking type. If you swap those out for the non-locking type it works just fine.
 

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Thats not entirely correct. I have 2.5 radflos and I bolted the PRG spacers on mine with out any issue. The only thing that you need to change is the nut that goes ontop of the bolt. If you use the nuts that come with the 2.5 Radflos you will be unable to tighten them. IIRC the nuts Greg provides for 2.5 Radflos that will be used w/o a spacer are the self locking type. If you swap those out for the non-locking type it works just fine.
your correct, it would depend on what size spacer your installing, greg sent me a 3/4" spacer to install on my 2.5 with my titan swap so I needed to install longer bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My nisstec radflos have bolts pressed in the top. In order to put the 1" spacer i would need longer studs. I have da nisstec extended ultimate kit.
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My nisstec radflos have bolts pressed in the top. In order to put the 1" spacer i would need longer studs. I have da nisstec extended ultimate kit.
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what kind of spacer are you guys running? my PRG spacer bolts to the strut mount and has separate holes and bolts to mount to the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have my extended radflos set at 2.5, spc control arms clear the bucket fine. Why am i getting a thumping noise
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IBecause you have almost no downtravel because of the preload on the rads

The more you crank them the more shock shaft gets pulled out and it can only.come out of the body So much before it stops and makes a clunk

If you have a Buddy rock the truck back and forth you will see and hear the rads fully extend and make a clunk

Been there done this

I recommend you get a spacer that has 6 holes In them. 3 would be threaded, it would slide over your studs on the shock and you would then bolt the spacer on with shock bolts.

Then you would install the shock and bolts provided with the spacers would go through the coilbucket and into the other 3 threaded holes


Or just press new longer bolts in and use any style spacer

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Tried to rock the truck, couldnt get it to clunk. Possible sway bar links/joints? I cannot mimic it standing still. Tried rocking it from driver door very roughly. For how ever much down travel i have considerin its only 1/2", rocking the truck manually did not create any clunk. Will try to disconnect sway bar and see what happens
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How hard did you rock the truck? I bet that you just didnt rock it enough. Get two of your heavier buddies and then try rocking the truck with the sliders.
 
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