Has anyone tried to setup dual batteries with a dual battery management system? I was reading about this in the 4wd and SUV magazine (the one with the rocksliders being installed on the X) and it seemed like a great design. Normally the X might not need this, but with an under seat air compressor, AND a winch (since I just got my bumper today), AND a power inverter, AND essentially 8 after market lights (2 on front bumper, 4 on roof, and 2 in rear) that seems to be a lot of juice. Plus I eventually plan on throwing a little stereo in there too.
Dual Batteries?
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I thought that too, but a lot of dual batteries can be wired to any location; under hood or in the rear. If no where else, there seems like there could be room by the intake. I have a K&N, and it looks like some of the casing could be modified to make enough room for the battery. I am not standing in front of it, but I thought there could be enough room in that area.
Maybe with the K&N you might fit a battery in there, but doubtful. I could even fit my compressor in there with the stock intake box on.
Also, if you plan to ever see mud, you might want to rethink that K&N. My stock box has been covered in mud before.
Also, if you plan to ever see mud, you might want to rethink that K&N. My stock box has been covered in mud before.
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Oh it can be done, I'm not sure it would be worth it. That's a lot of work and money for a small gain. I'd just carry an extra battery in a box on the floor of rear. When you need to winch hook it up.
When you do duel battery's it's pretty much standard you must buy like two identical battery's made in same batch alike for it to be a good install. (Or one Bat will drag other to it's level)
But anyways, according to the volt's on my scanguage, and I have all the toys you mention, what I have holds 12.8 with it all on at once, or what you would have on at once. I think I can winch in the dark with one set of lights. It's not what you have, it's what you will use at once.
You won't be running all your lights, listening to a high amp stereo, winching and airing up your tires all at the same time.
So maybe an upgrade of the single battery to the aftermarket one will be good, but kill what you have 1st is my theory. MC
When you do duel battery's it's pretty much standard you must buy like two identical battery's made in same batch alike for it to be a good install. (Or one Bat will drag other to it's level)
But anyways, according to the volt's on my scanguage, and I have all the toys you mention, what I have holds 12.8 with it all on at once, or what you would have on at once. I think I can winch in the dark with one set of lights. It's not what you have, it's what you will use at once.
You won't be running all your lights, listening to a high amp stereo, winching and airing up your tires all at the same time.
So maybe an upgrade of the single battery to the aftermarket one will be good, but kill what you have 1st is my theory. MC
I had dual Exide Orbitals in my previous Jeep, they were identical batteries but purchased about a year apart. I had them isolated with a $20.00 constant duty RV solenoid and had no issues at all. The primary battery did have to be replaced after about 3-1/2 years but I am sure it was because I completely drained it a half dozen times. I had a small ignition off current draw (modified the flasher to work with LED's) for over 3 years before I discovered it and also left the ARB fridge plugged in with the ignition off for numerous days on a few occasions.usmc xterra said:
I just replaced the dead battery and it was still fine when I sold the Jeep 6 months later.
Vince :clown:
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I said:
"for it to be a good install." Not going to explain myself. If someone clicks around enough they will see I am right about matching the battery's.
It's not like it's a boat and someones life depends on it. Huh?
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_11/5.html
http://www.hellroaring.com/4wheel.php
http://www.zbattery.com/seriesparallel.html
http://www.boatus.com/husick/techno01_01.asp
http://www.boatus.com/husick/techno3_01.asp
You "Can" get away with a lot of such tricks but not me. I know better.
Do that again though and take all the measurements. Then do it with two new battery's of same batch, be way better numbers. I've done it. MC
"for it to be a good install." Not going to explain myself. If someone clicks around enough they will see I am right about matching the battery's.
It's not like it's a boat and someones life depends on it. Huh?
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_11/5.html
http://www.hellroaring.com/4wheel.php
http://www.zbattery.com/seriesparallel.html
http://www.boatus.com/husick/techno01_01.asp
http://www.boatus.com/husick/techno3_01.asp
You "Can" get away with a lot of such tricks but not me. I know better.
Do that again though and take all the measurements. Then do it with two new battery's of same batch, be way better numbers. I've done it. MC
If you use an isolator you don't even need the same type of battery. Most people user a red top and yellow/blue top with an isolator between them. This is actually the most common setup for wheeling.
http://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/battery_isolator.shtml
http://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/battery_isolator.shtml
yea, my K&N filter is covered in mud now... maybe i will put a pre-filter over it. i have an extra one from my jeepmuzikman said:Maybe with the K&N you might fit a battery in there, but doubtful. I could even fit my compressor in there with the stock intake box on.
Also, if you plan to ever see mud, you might want to rethink that K&N. My stock box has been covered in mud before.
That was informative reading, thanks for posting it.usmc xterra said:
I still may try and do the dual batteries in the stock location, if I do, I will reconsider the method I connect them with.
I currently have a single Exide Orbital Deep Cycle/Starting battery that should be sufficient, time and use will tell.
My biggest reason for wanting dual batteries is the insurance it provides in the event I leave something on and the battery drains.
That being said, I did pickup a little device that runs inline between the power outlet and accessory that will automatically disconnect the power if the battery level drops below a certain voltage. This will leave the battery with enough energy to start the vehicle.
I also thought about picking up one of those rechargeable battery packs that you can boost from and just keeping it in the back of the X.
Vince :clown:
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2,717 Posts
http://sierranevadaairstreams.org/owners-guide/understanding/battery-config.html Read Why parallel at this link, more you read though more you know why I think the way I do. And why I know 2 battery's is not worth it, or believe me, I'd have found a way and posted a how to.
I think I am thinking "Out of the box" here because I have done this so much with boats. And with boats, it's vital you get the most bang for your buck, Isolators while cool, fail and really don't give you much bang for your buck. Most bang is a Battery switch that shares the banks, for like $12 you go A bank, B bank Or Both banks. But it's by hand. Way more reliable. I'd love to explain my set up, but it would be way past comprehension here? I have that same switch wired in backwards on a 2 bank of Parallel Deep cycle Battery's and a single Deep cycle. So when my switch is in A, my 2 banks runs Acc.'s and the motor runs off one bank and charges 1 bank. But when I go switch B My Acc.'s run off one bank and the motor charges bank one. The way I have it hooked up, I never run Both (Or the two bank will try to dump into the one bank) So basically, I used a switch as an isolator for $12 and have it to where I have a parallel set up with 2 Deep cells matched and One Deep cell that stands alone. Now why is same reason we want for our X's, So I have two High AH Deep cycles to run long drain heavy loads for long times. But, still always have a backup starter battery to get the motor going should I go below 11 Volts of either bank. Just by flipping a switch. I've had a boating Co look hard at my system and consider copying it for new boats. Maybe they will some day. The said pretty nifty, never seen no shit like that before. But with that set up, I can get stupid on the lake and still start my engine and have gobs of Power to run an Electric motor, depth sounder, GPS Stereo, Radios, and all that and never worry. I also have both banks hooked to a on board charger that conditions each bank and fully equalizes and charges it then maintains it, just by plugging it in.
Now I know all this sound unbelievable, So here are a few pics, although I am missing the rear Starter Group 27 deep cycle a Combo 24 is shown in it's place. Just never took a pic of the new one I don't think.
In this pic, just in front of the RED flashlight is a big Red switch, that's my AB Both switch I was Talking about.
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This is my 2 Bank hooked in parallel Group 31 Bank, Enough power to run from Canada to the Lake Erie Ohio shore on a Minn Kota PD55 with auto pilot, No one else I know of can do that. Plus I can have the tunes going the whole way!
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This is my Group 24 Batt in rear location mentioned, You can see the famous green tag of the Priority Start that did not work as mentioned below and was whole reason I went with this set up. This Batt is now a Group 27 Deep Cycle, enough to power all this for about 4 hrs uncharged.
![]()
Now why all the power? Well I go to Lake Erie a lot, Dangerous lake, i live on the edge. I have fun, I stay on the lake for Days sometimes, I have a camper cover and, this is home, TV, DVD, Surround sound, Garmin GPS, XM, Gigantic competition stereo system (Under waterproof cover there) An inverter (120 Volts for optional flat screen TV) and loads of other options, Heater stuff like that. This give you the idea.
![]()
Once I get home, I plug this in and it brings it all back up, tuned the battery's separately (By Bank) levels out the cells and tops them off without overcharging them, then maintains them. And so cool, it will do any type of battery, Wet, AGM, Gel. I choose Wet Cell after about 3 months of study. Best bang for the buck! This system is 5 years old and tests out same as new! We are talking testing in this fashion.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/weekly/aa101604a.htm
![]()
This is kind of the mess you have hooking all this stuff up, Kinda crazy buy a brand new boat and 30 days later take it almost all apart and re do all the electric in upgrades and add on's. A Ranger is a Better Hull but this boat has it all! Anyone wanna help?
![]()
My Grandfather rebuilt battery's for a 2nd Job at home after work, he was an electrician in a Mill. He knew a lot and he taught me. (I lived next door) From what I learned and today's technology, I devised this MC set up. Now, the reason why is because I tried a http://www.prioritystart.com/ When the boat was Brand New and it left my 70 year old father on the lake with no fricking power! (Old men tend to forget the depth sounder has been running for 6 hours on Starting bank) Everything happens for a reason.
If I was going to do a system for the X it would be matched Optima group 31 Yellow Tops hooked in parallel. Easily Start the X, and gobs of power and juice for any winch job on hand, even with the motor off. They'd be like almost un killable. NO Isolator or switches needed. Just the battery's.
Light, and off road winch friendly!
And thanks for letting me voice my experience & opinion. MC
I think I am thinking "Out of the box" here because I have done this so much with boats. And with boats, it's vital you get the most bang for your buck, Isolators while cool, fail and really don't give you much bang for your buck. Most bang is a Battery switch that shares the banks, for like $12 you go A bank, B bank Or Both banks. But it's by hand. Way more reliable. I'd love to explain my set up, but it would be way past comprehension here? I have that same switch wired in backwards on a 2 bank of Parallel Deep cycle Battery's and a single Deep cycle. So when my switch is in A, my 2 banks runs Acc.'s and the motor runs off one bank and charges 1 bank. But when I go switch B My Acc.'s run off one bank and the motor charges bank one. The way I have it hooked up, I never run Both (Or the two bank will try to dump into the one bank) So basically, I used a switch as an isolator for $12 and have it to where I have a parallel set up with 2 Deep cells matched and One Deep cell that stands alone. Now why is same reason we want for our X's, So I have two High AH Deep cycles to run long drain heavy loads for long times. But, still always have a backup starter battery to get the motor going should I go below 11 Volts of either bank. Just by flipping a switch. I've had a boating Co look hard at my system and consider copying it for new boats. Maybe they will some day. The said pretty nifty, never seen no shit like that before. But with that set up, I can get stupid on the lake and still start my engine and have gobs of Power to run an Electric motor, depth sounder, GPS Stereo, Radios, and all that and never worry. I also have both banks hooked to a on board charger that conditions each bank and fully equalizes and charges it then maintains it, just by plugging it in.
Now I know all this sound unbelievable, So here are a few pics, although I am missing the rear Starter Group 27 deep cycle a Combo 24 is shown in it's place. Just never took a pic of the new one I don't think.
In this pic, just in front of the RED flashlight is a big Red switch, that's my AB Both switch I was Talking about.
This is my 2 Bank hooked in parallel Group 31 Bank, Enough power to run from Canada to the Lake Erie Ohio shore on a Minn Kota PD55 with auto pilot, No one else I know of can do that. Plus I can have the tunes going the whole way!
This is my Group 24 Batt in rear location mentioned, You can see the famous green tag of the Priority Start that did not work as mentioned below and was whole reason I went with this set up. This Batt is now a Group 27 Deep Cycle, enough to power all this for about 4 hrs uncharged.
Now why all the power? Well I go to Lake Erie a lot, Dangerous lake, i live on the edge. I have fun, I stay on the lake for Days sometimes, I have a camper cover and, this is home, TV, DVD, Surround sound, Garmin GPS, XM, Gigantic competition stereo system (Under waterproof cover there) An inverter (120 Volts for optional flat screen TV) and loads of other options, Heater stuff like that. This give you the idea.
Once I get home, I plug this in and it brings it all back up, tuned the battery's separately (By Bank) levels out the cells and tops them off without overcharging them, then maintains them. And so cool, it will do any type of battery, Wet, AGM, Gel. I choose Wet Cell after about 3 months of study. Best bang for the buck! This system is 5 years old and tests out same as new! We are talking testing in this fashion.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/weekly/aa101604a.htm
This is kind of the mess you have hooking all this stuff up, Kinda crazy buy a brand new boat and 30 days later take it almost all apart and re do all the electric in upgrades and add on's. A Ranger is a Better Hull but this boat has it all! Anyone wanna help?
My Grandfather rebuilt battery's for a 2nd Job at home after work, he was an electrician in a Mill. He knew a lot and he taught me. (I lived next door) From what I learned and today's technology, I devised this MC set up. Now, the reason why is because I tried a http://www.prioritystart.com/ When the boat was Brand New and it left my 70 year old father on the lake with no fricking power! (Old men tend to forget the depth sounder has been running for 6 hours on Starting bank) Everything happens for a reason.
If I was going to do a system for the X it would be matched Optima group 31 Yellow Tops hooked in parallel. Easily Start the X, and gobs of power and juice for any winch job on hand, even with the motor off. They'd be like almost un killable. NO Isolator or switches needed. Just the battery's.
Light, and off road winch friendly!
And thanks for letting me voice my experience & opinion. MC
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141 Posts
Amen!
Thanks for the battery 101, 201, 301, 401 and 501 course - I feel smarter now. Keep on...
Regards
Thanks for the battery 101, 201, 301, 401 and 501 course - I feel smarter now. Keep on...
Regards
Here's what I have: http://www.battery-rechargeable-charger.com/vector-jump-start-VEC012B.html Can jump start, recharge, has a 12V DC outlet, and can even be recharged from another 12V DC outlet. Also has an LED work lamp to help you connect up in the dark. Got mine from Pep Boys for about $100.Vinman said:
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Yea, for what we do, all that is needed is a fully charged Item like what is above. I mean that is what makes sense. Money wise and space wise. BUT! Stay tuned because MC has some ideas and when the time comes. (Like my Battery dies) I will be adding some juice in the least expensive - most bang for the buck..... easy to copy way with a How to.
After my Boat left my Dad high and dry, I was forced to upgrade early.
But, even one of the Yellow Optima 31 series battery's is like a Major Major upgrade! Major! I think Petro truck stops have them in stock.
And yea, if you sort through all that, There is a lot of good info. Under Battery, I have like 50 bookmarks. MC
After my Boat left my Dad high and dry, I was forced to upgrade early.
But, even one of the Yellow Optima 31 series battery's is like a Major Major upgrade! Major! I think Petro truck stops have them in stock.
And yea, if you sort through all that, There is a lot of good info. Under Battery, I have like 50 bookmarks. MC
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