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Driveshaft Upgrade

5K views 27 replies 9 participants last post by  Tlrtucker 
#1 · (Edited)
Grateful for the driveline shop on Long Island hooking it up for me! Brand new rear driveshaft with 2 Ujoints, no more CV joint. I didn’t go with the double cardan because of my angles not being too far off. If I lift my X higher than maybe I’ll upgrade to a double cardan. GOODBYE VIBRATIONS!
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#11 ·
Grateful for the driveline shop on Long Island hooking it up for me! Brand new rear driveshaft with 2 Ujoints, no more CV joint. I didn’t go with the double cardan because of my angles not being too far off. If I lift my X higher than maybe I’ll upgrade to a double cardan. GOODBYE VIBRATIONS! View attachment 143358
How much did this cost? I saw another post mentioning driveshafts and looked it up...$400. That's more than I could pay for a part that's not broken.
Came to 595 after taxes.. the constant vibration can end up destroying seals in the transfer case and more.. upgrading can save you extra costs down the road.
 
#15 ·
Yea they actually got worse. Originally I just had a vibration at 20-30mph. When I went to the two Ujoints, I had vibes from 20mph to 60mph. So I put my old shaft back on and brought it to the shop for the cardan upgrade. The angle at the transfer case is the cause. The cardan should take of that.
 
#23 ·
I took my stock driveshaft, and with a pinion adapter plate from Tom Woods & a bronco yoke, had it redone to eliminate the stock rear CV joint. (old thread here somewhere I did on it).
Worked outstanding for years, and thru the first revision of the TS.
Then when I upgraded my rear 2.5" #400 alcan leaves to 4" #800 leaves, I was getting odd harmonics when the driveshaft became unloaded between coast and load. Not really vibration, but you could hear it. It's a fine line in lift where the standard u-joint shaft no longer runs without vibration.
Had Tom Woods build me a double cardan unit, and no more problem. Too bad they quit making them, but it's good there are other choices out there I'm told.
Now I carry the old one on the roof rack for a spare just in case...

When I do the fronty lift/TS after moab, I'm hoping I can get away with just double joints and no cardan as the driveshaft is much longer and less angle (I hope, 6"DB & TS :rolleyes:).
Guess we'll see....
 
#28 ·
Old thread revival...

Why did you think the vibration was from the CV joint in back, and a single u-joint would be better? Generally CV joints handle more angle with less vibration that a u-joint. There must be something I'm not getting 😉
u joints are stronger off road, and cheaper to replace. CV joints are better for on road, and handle more extreme angles better. If your driveline is straight inline with your t-case output shaft and the rear diff pinion, a u joint will be just as strong, if not stronger. Plus, trail repairs are MUCH easier with a u joint.
 
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