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How are you mounting those leaf springs? That's what, about 10 inches longer than stock xterra springs?
 

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I looked at mine not too long ago to see where you could increase the length without putting the mount under the frame or moving the axle forward and it looked like it would have the shackle mount hanging out beyond the rear bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I looked at mine not too long ago to see where you could increase the length without putting the mount under the frame or moving the axle forward and it looked like it would have the shackle mount hanging out beyond the rear bumper.
Did you take into account moving the front hanger too?

I'm figuring this all out as a go, but from what I understand when installing longer leafs to figure out the approx distance for moving the front hanger you take the difference of centerpin to front eye of leaf from New springs and old and for rear shackle hanger it's the same thing minus the length of shackle (which will probably be around 9" if running under frame , longer if running thru frame or above frame).

Of course this just get you in the ballpark you Still have to cycle everything to check clearances and if shackle angle is okay at droop and bump.

Also I talked to cjd and he runs 62" deavers on his underleaf kit for the frontier and i realize frontier frames are longer but if you look where he mounts his shackle hanger it's a long ways from the bumper. (12" shackle above the frame)

And this 4runner is running the exact same springs with a 9" shackle under the frame and they have the same wheelbase as xterra (105" 4runner vs 106" xterra.)

oI realize these are different vehicles so it doesn't mean it's gonna work on the xterra, but I haven't really been able to find any other xterras running the same set up so I don't have much to go off of

4runner:
Automotive parking light Tire Automotive tail & brake light Wheel Vehicle registration plate

CJD 62" deaver underleaf on frontier
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Also i didn't want to pay the extra $4-500+ to get custom springs and wait 3+ months. And the few custom spring makers I called didn't really seem that interested in making custom springs for what I'm trying to do (and these spring were what deaver reccomend based on its what all thr long travel 4runners run).

So ya I'm kinda taking a gamble on whether or not this whole rear end set up will work out. I'd like to be able to just drop it off at a fab shop and have them figure it out but I don't have the $$$ for that.

So if anyone has some advice or suggestions lemme know cuz like I said I'm figuring this out out as I go....
 

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I didn't take any measurements, just eyeballed it from theoretically mounting the front of the spring with where the frame starts to kick up and then looking where I thought the rear eye would land was about the edge of the bumper. I was only thinking about it because mine were wore out and Chevy leaves are longer, ride pretty good, and are easy to find. I stopped thinking about it once I bought my lift, though if you can figure out how to get it done it may be back on the table later on down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Got my extremely well used 2.5 x 16 Kings shocks today. I might upgrade to bypasses in the future but i couldn't justify/afford spending over 3x as much as I paid for these used smooth body remote resi's and also wasn't sure how obnoxious the clicking would be with running the bypasses since they will be mounted inside the cab.

I got a good deal at $400 for the pair but kinda pissed to find out after they were delivered that the top and bottom bearings in both shocks are completely shot after asking the seller multiple times if there was anything wrong with them and him telling me "they are good to go nothing wrong with them besides a little dirty" 🤬😤😠.

(Not to mention him charging me $204 for shipping and when they arrive the shipping cost Is posted on the front at $134....)

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Got a decent tax return a couple weeks ago so I went ahead and Ordered my ARB rear locker for the C200K axle and ARB compressor (the one for $300 that you can run the lockers and air up your tires). Installed the compressor myself in the engine bay next to the driver side headlight (dont reccommend that spot...its a SUPER tight fit and akward anytime you have to remove the headlight especially with these aftermarket SPEC-D/HID conversion lights). I was originally wanting to install it in the rear cargo compartment but the wiring harness they give you is not long enough and I didnt want to deal with having to splice a bunch of wires together to lengthen it.

After getting the compressor and the switches and airline for the rear locker installed, I brought it to a local shop last week to have the locker installed . BTW if anyone is in the San Jose/Bay area and needs locker or gears installed check out MS Gears in Santa Clara. They charged $500 for the rear locker install which was about half the price of what other shops quoted me (everyone I called wanted $900+) and they seem to do quality work and have good reviews on yelp.

Still havent got a chance to really test it out yet but heres a few pics. As you can see its a clusterfcuk or wires/airlines right by the hotass compressor which has me a little nervous.....I did cover the entire airline in some 1/4" electrical plastic serrated tubing ?? (dont know what its called exactly) then wrapped the entire 1/4" tubings with some high temp 220deg rated electrical tape so hoping that helps protect it a little...

View attachment 137229
Do you have a way to take the compressor out without taking off the airbox and headlight? I'm planning on putting mine in the same place but can't figure out how to mount it in a way where it can easily come out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Do you have a way to take the compressor out without taking off the airbox and headlight? I'm planning on putting mine in the same place but can't figure out how to mount it in a way where it can easily come out...


Ya Its a tight squeeze but its doable. i mounted it right in between the radiator and driver side headlight. ill take a pic for you just give me a a little bit.

EDIT: wait nvm didnt understand your question the first time reading it, and i forgot i already posted a pic on the first pic. I dont really have any other recommended spot but you can still get the compressor in and out without removing the headlight or airbox. and i havent had any issues yet with the compressor getting hot and melting wires etc. but then again I dont ever have it running that long cuz even with the locker on it only runs the compressor for a second and havent got the accessories yet for inflating tires....
 

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Ya Its a tight squeeze but its doable. i mounted it right in between the radiator and driver side headlight. ill take a pic for you just give me a a little bit.

EDIT: wait nvm didnt understand your question the first time reading it, and i forgot i already posted a pic on the first pic. I dont really have any other recommended spot but you can still get the compressor in and out without removing the headlight or airbox. and i havent had any issues yet with the compressor getting hot and melting wires etc. but then again I dont ever have it running that long cuz even with the locker on it only runs the compressor for a second and havent got the accessories yet for inflating tires....
Yeah I guess I just can't figure out how you were able to get a wrench in there to bolt down the ARB to the frame. Or did you take the compressor off of its bracket and mount that first...
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
I got the deaver h70hd 62" leaf springs installed last week and good news is it looks like theres the potential for 18-20" of travel but bad news is now the driveshaft doesnt want to line up :mad: it looks like that crossmember piece that supports the gas tank is keeping the driveshaft from drooping down far enough for it to line up with the rear axle. Has anyone had to modify this cross member piece before?
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Here's some current progress pics of my rear long travel project. "Bedcage/cabcage/upper shock mounts are almost done (just need to add a few more support tubing and small misc things and then I need to just figure out my driveshaft issue and fill in all those huge holez I made in the floor and then it should be done.......

and if all goes according to plan cycling 17"-19" bumped and strapped

But then again things seem to never go according to plan so who knows....

this project has made me realize how much easier it would be if I just picked another vehicle ( like a tacoma/ranger/silverado or basically anything else) To build instead......

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Have an 05 Silverado I picked up, turning it into the fast vehicle while the Nissan moves to solid axles.
Nice. Sounds like a solid plan. Post some pics of the chevy when you start building it.


So I ended up figuring out the driveshaft issue and didn't have to buy a new driveshaft or modify mine. All I had to do was move the axle 1.5 inches more forward (btw everything still clears I checked....) and then I had to cut out a piece of the gas tank crossmember and weld in a "u" shape brace to allow the driveshaft to droop down far enough to get the full 18-19" travel (see pic. Below)

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting


So I was able to drive it for the first time with the new long travel rear set up and everything seems to be working alright except I realize now the used king shocks I bought are beat to shit and need to be completely rebuilt new bearings and possibly new shafts. I guess that's what I get for buying used shocks on Facebook . 🤬

What's shitty is by the time I buy all the parts to rebuild them I probably could have bought a brand new set.......

Also since the xterra is gonna be down while I rebuild the shocks I think I'm gonna take the time to switch my shackle set up to 12inch shackles mounted over or thru frame (vs 8 inch shackles I'm running currently from bottom of frame).

Its gonna be pain in the ass setting them up like this but everything I've read online about these springs this is the proper way to run them and I'd rather do it once the right way and be done with it.

Here's a picture of the current shackle set up below (temporary test fit shackles shown) and what I'm gonna switch it to (2nd pic below)
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