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Discussion Starter #1
Got around to getting the shackles on today. I didn't take any pictures since there are good ones posted already (good enough for me to follow - thank you MC and Speedy_Parker). We got stuck twice: getting the stock nuts off the shackles (factory guy must have been a gorilla) and then pulling the shackles off. They weren't crudded up or anything, even the bushings still had their grease on them. The problem was too much tension from the spring. After getting the left one off with much grunting and pry bar action, the spring went flying up to it's resting position. We used MC's bottle jack technique to bring it down in position to line it up with the shackle. That's when I got the idea to put the jack in place before removing the shackle on the right side. Sure enough, with the tension off of the spring, the outboard side of the shackle came off easily (after the battle with the factory nuts). Another snag was getting the other half of the shackle off on the right side. Since it is real close to the tail pipe, it took some wiggling and adjusting the jack until we could get one of the bolts out of the spring.
Although MC's bottle jack worked well, I wish I had a long pry bar like Speedy_Parker used also. The jack worked well for reducing the tension on the spring to remove the shackles and get the spring compressed enough to get the lower bolt of the shackle in. I think using the pry bar in addition would have made it easier to line up the shackle with the spring. The spring wanted to move outwards (towards the tire) and this made it hard to get it centered in shackle. I think using the pry bar would allow you to control the spring and move it left and right and get it right in the middle of the shackle. Next guy to do this needs to try using both jack and pry bar.
 

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Well I have two days trying to get Windows Movie Maker to send a Movie to a CD, DVD, a Card, or anything but my computer. Maybe a bottle jack will work? I am about pretty freeking frustrated doing this. I can see the movie just fine, but in 2 days all I got is a stack of Coasters, and one CD that plays HI MAT format one clip in a thumbnail version only, (On a 32 in screen it's like 2X2 inches.) So, I'd of traded ya labor for Labor.
Just got back from Wal Mart, working on my new stack of CD's, I got 95 different kinds figure maybe brand is a problem.

But anyways, You got what ya started after, it is a little tricky, can't possibly mention all tricks in a how to. Just as no one can help me make a CD from a Windows Movie. It just don't work.

MC
 

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usmc xterra said:
... Just as no one can help me make a CD from a Windows Movie. It just don't work.

MC
Go to www.videohelp.com
There are far better alternatives to Windows Movies and alot are free.
FYI I had the same problem and eventually gave up with it (though my dad at 81 can use it with no problem-go figure!)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
usmc xterra said:
So, I'd of traded ya labor for Labor.
May have to take you up on that next time. Sorry I can't help w/ your video problem. I'm a Mac guy, not a windows guy. If I had the video tape (Digital Mini only), I could import it to my computer, edit it w/ iMovie, and export it as a Quicktime file and burn to CD or import it to iDVD and burn it to DVD. As a Quicktime file, it doesn't fill the screen, but at least I can make a movie that will play on a computer or be a small enough file to upload to the Web. Good luck with your windows machine and moviemaking. If it's video footage you really want to keep and reproduce, you might want to take it to a video service. They usually charge about $40/hr to convert tape (any format) or film to digital and burn to DVD. I may end up this going this route to get our old family movies into a more durable format.
 

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LOL $40 an hour would have been a deal to get something that works. I have today two that will play in my computer. But what I want is like 7 that will play in something they have. Hope I get that. It's just some small quirk that is jacking things up and I just have to keep jacking with it. I have made clips, uploaded them, all that crap. I just wanted something to send, You can't upload like an hour and 300+ clips.

Anyways, Now that you have the back on, when you getting the front on? Sorry about the hijack, really.

MC
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tip. I figured I would still have to undo the ball to drop in from the top, but if it can be slid in from below, that will be quick. I'll have to take pics in that case, since I haven't seen pics of this procedure on the forum before.
 

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Yeah, with the AC coils no need to undo the upper ball joint. There is plenty of room to take the old shocks out and put the new shocks in.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Again, good news for me. Hope it does go easy and that the 800 lb gorilla at the Nissan factory didn't hog down on any bolts. Don't those guys torque stuff to specs?
 

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I don't understand the whole deal about the bottle jack and pry bar? I put AC shackles on by myself with no need for either. I just used the floor jack to ajust the axel to where there was no tension on the leaf spring bollts and removed the them. Then, lowered the axel to where the rear leaf spring holes lined up with the lower shackle holes- I had to pull down on the leaf spring slightly with my hand to line them up. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ram190 said:
I had to pull down on the leaf spring slightly with my hand to line them up. Done.
You either have a strong hand or weak springs, LOL. I couldn't make it budge w/o the jack. When I took the shackle off the driver's side, that spring took off rather quickly, and I couldn't move it down or laterallly. Had the axle jacked up by the pumpkin, too. If I had about four more of these to install, I may have it all figured out.
 

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I had the rear end jacked pretty high, so I could lower the axel down far enough to align the holes.
 
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