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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Got a link to what you ordered? I didn't know they made something aftermarket like that...
Here. I had the style with 3 large set bolts and it worked well with the oem hitch, but it wouldnt sit right and lock onto the new hitch properly.
 

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Definitely looks sturdier than my 'standard' version of the bumper. I don't tow, so I wasn't too worried about it.
Just FYI, lots of hitches, and some bumpers extend forward to another set of holes in the frame to spread the force out a bit and not chance bending the rear of the frame. You could weld on an extension... or even bolting on a flat plate as an added brace forward might help.
I used the same style plate lights. Wish I'd put on a license plate frame first... gotta screw with wiring to pull the plate off lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Definitely looks sturdier than my 'standard' version of the bumper. I don't tow, so I wasn't too worried about it.
Just FYI, lots of hitches, and some bumpers extend forward to another set of holes in the frame to spread the force out a bit and not chance bending the rear of the frame. You could weld on an extension... or even bolting on a flat plate as an added brace forward might help.
I used the same style plate lights. Wish I'd put on a license plate frame first... gotta screw with wiring to pull the plate off lol
Yeah I dont tow anything too heavy overall but i regularly haul my dirtbike on a hitch rack down dirt roads. Which is about 325lbs total bouncing on that bumper. Im gonna keep an eye on everything underneath for a while but I dont foresee any issues. I wish id put a plate frame in too. The plate laud nice and flat when I test fitted it, but once snuggled up it bends out slightly. Not enough to catch on anything I dont think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 · (Edited)
Its finally time to TS the front suspension! After upgrading to extended travel Radflos a hand full of years ago, and spending nearly the same $$ overall to iron out the bugs. I always promised myself that once the front suspension was tired I'd do the swap. Well, last week I pulled front the wheels to make some long needed alignment adjustments (more caster) and found that just about everything is near EOL. My CVs have been clicking for years but the click has finally evolved and is now loud and constant. Both upper ball joints and tie rods are floppy. At least one lower ball joint is starting to knock, at least one front hub assy is starting to go. Rotors look done. LCA bushings are done. About the only thing thats not worn out are the Radflos.

With all of that I pulled the trigger on all new front end. SPC UCAs, LCAs, all new tie rods, Nisstec MKll TS coilovers, new cv's (keeping R180), new Timken hubs. Just gotta make a choice on rotors/pads and then everything is on the way. Likely wont have coilovers for at least a month or two. Looking forward to proper alignment, no front wheel spacers and of course that ~9" of travel.

With still being my primary vehicle, it's nice to be able to justify the cost of a TS as needed maintenance 🙃
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
Now officially titan suspension swapped!

A couple interesting finds with MKII coilovers. I had about 1.5" of additional range in the suspension before anything began to bind, so I swapped over the 1" top spacer that I ran with my extended Rads. I dont recall this being a thing with TS' and Radflos. With the spacer in, I was still about 3/4" shorter "eye to eye" on the coilover than what could fit, but thats a comfy spot knowing I well shy of binding. Hopefully the spacer helps protect my fender at full stuff. Hoping to flex it out today and see how close it is.

2nd note, the CDJ Racing axles have a much larger outer cv housing than the oem. I was not expecting this based on other extended cv's Ive seen. A larger house can mean ateeper operating angle so maybe this is how I ended up with the additional droop. Or maybe everyone is getting that with the MKII's?

As for the MKII's themselves. The build quality looks excellent. Superior to Radflo in many ways. Better spring collars, a functioning spanner tool, both pivots have spherical motion but are sealed with o-rings, where Radflo are completely exposed, stouter lower mounting spacers with more surface area. The inverted "body-up" style solves clearance issues with the cv shafts.
Coil spring Gas Suspension Household hardware Auto part

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood

(Full droop, no weight on the dollys)
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Well Murphey's law. Do an upgrade and or spend money on something and something else immediately breaks. My driver window motor died with the window stuck down. relatively cheap and easy fix. just cant help but laugh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
What are your thoughts of the AT3? They seem to be very affordable compared to other all-terrains.
One of the better AT tires Ive had. Dirt where I'm at is mostly a decomposed granit base that can be hardpack with a loose marble on top, and the AT3's have done great. They will pack a bit in mud conditions but tend to clear the tread decently. On pavement they are superb. Quiet, smooth and are fantastic in wet weather. A lot have claimed Cooper tires wear quickly but so far mine have held up great for me. The only negative I have is that they do seem to pick up quite a bit of small rocks in the tread. Especially in gravel.
 

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One of the better AT tires Ive had. Dirt where I'm at is mostly a decomposed granit base that can be hardpack with a loose marble on top, and the AT3's have done great. They will pack a bit in mud conditions but tend to clear the tread decently. On pavement they are superb. Quiet, smooth and are fantastic in wet weather. A lot have claimed Cooper tires wear quickly but so far mine have held up great for me. The only negative I have is that they do seem to pick up quite a bit of small rocks in the tread. Especially in gravel.
Thanks for the insights. I am in Colorado, and my only real concern is sidewall punctures. I thought I read these are a 2 or 3 ply sidewall, but can't seem to find where I read that now. But, perhaps I am overthinking it: What AT tires have 3 ply sidewalls? Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Thanks for the insights. I am in Colorado, and my only real concern is sidewall punctures. I thought I read these are a 2 or 3 ply sidewall, but can't seem to find where I read that now. But, perhaps I am overthinking it: What AT tires have 3 ply sidewalls? Thanks again!
I seem to recall from when I originally researched them that the XLT version was 3 ply and the LT was 2 ply? I could be wrong on that. Website doesnt seem to say anymore.

The XLT has notable sidewall armor for an AT tire and Cooper uses a high silica content in their rubber compound. Ive been impressed with the abrasion and cut resistance of the tires too. I haven't had any slices or gouging in my sidewalls yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Happy with the CDJ axles?
I know Nisstec offers a set that is a little more $, but I don't see the point if the CDJs are solid.
No issues so far. Nothing concerning stood out about them upon inspection and zero issues with install. Only comment would be that they didn't include new cotter pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
New Ironman leaf packs ready to go in. Heres a side by side comparison with my old leaf pack(oem with dual AAL). The old pack never went flat but the initial spring rate had gotten real soft and was very imbalanced with the new front suspension. It was giving some odd handling behavior on the street.

On the new pack I removed the overload leaf and #3 leaf. Should give me about 100-150lbs more load capacity over what I had(roughly 350lb over bone stock leafs) and feel much more balanced.

Automotive tire Wood Auto part Terrestrial plant Electrical supply


Also I never expected to be impressed by a u-bolt, but the Ironman u-bolts are quite nice! Powder coated and a size or two larger than oem u-bolts. I do have to hone out the holes in the axle plates for them to fit, but not much. Basically just removing imperfections from the stamping process.

Wood Auto part Metal Tool Pipe
 
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