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This winter I've noticed that there seems to be some valve train noise on starting the engine when it's below 40 degrees or so. The noise isn't very loud, more like a soft thud-thud-thud than a clicking sound, and only goes away when the engine fully warms up--3-4 minutes after starting. Oil pressure looks OK (it's an '05 so it has a functioning gauge), using a Nissan filter and 5W30 oil (dealer does the changes; yes, I'm lazy). Oil level is normal. The engine seems to be running fine while it's making the noise, and on warming up the noise is completely gone. The noise has persisted through several oil changes and, as I said before, doesn't happen if the temperature is above 40 or so. Is this happening to others? Something to worry about or just normal? Thanks for your help!
 

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I get same thing also. Much less with synthetic oil though. It quit when I put Amsoil in, but I just heard it this cold snap. Kinda like hydraulic liters pumping up. Don't see no reason to worry about it. Seems normal. I agree a new car should not do this though. Everything has a quirk.

Edit, Oh, that guy that posted above me, he has vast mechanical knowledge of the workings of a Nissan ICE but he don't give up any secrets!
MC
 

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Man I head the same noise and also got concerned, since the last car I had it did have valve problems, and I really wasnt looking forward to a warranty deal like that.
 

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It's been freezing here the last few days. Ice and all that. I keep the X in the garage but it still got cold in there. I backed out of the garage and let the X idle for a few. And I heard some engine noise I had not heard before. It went away when it warmed up. Since the weather is a little better, I don't hear it on cold startup anymore. Hmmm?
 

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same here, I also use Amsoil synths...doesn`t this have anything to do with variable valve timing or hydraulic lash adjusters???...PR...
 

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I'm about sure the pre oiler would eliminate it, but bang for buck? This engine will go like 300K without a pre oiler. Plus, the oil filter is anti drain back, so that is kinda half a pre oiler eh? It only happens to me about once a month, can't figure why. I also get a whistle type noise about the same frequency. Once a month. 5 seconds and it's over. MC
 

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Does anyone know a good place to tap into the oil gallery, following is one idea, but I would like to get other thoughts on this before doing it. Do the light and the gauge run off of the same sensor?

I found where the gauge taps into the engine. The problem is the flow of pressure in the oil galleries(Back to the pan). What I'm thinking is, cutting the line into the oil filter and inserting a check valve before the Tee fitting to prevent backflow to the oil pan and installing the line for the bottle there. I bought the 20 oz. Co2 bottle for paintball gun at wallmart (Rated at 1800 PSI)for $26 removed the valve which comes with 5/8-18 thread, tapped it with a 3/8-18 NPT)Very little material removal). I purchased a solenoid valve on line for $30(still waiting for it). Moroso makes a check valve I can buy for $20, but I'm going to look locally first. I figure with oil line and fittings I can put this together for about $90. What motivated me was the overpriced kits that are sold online. A similar kit sells for $210 and I could not justify paying that price when I discovered how much the components cost. Whether people think it is a waste or not is up to them, I am only posting this for those who might think it is usefull, I am already convinced it is. When my wife starts her Xterra I hear what the engine sounds like and it's not good(Revs up to 2,000 RPM, DRY), and considering at 30,000 miles we have had to replace both secondary timing chains and tensioners(under warranty) it cannot hurt. NOTE that when tapping the bottle to 3/8 NPT, have a fitting to use as a gauge. You only want to tap it deep enough to get between 3 and 4 turns on your fitting or it will LEAK.
 

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:clown: Well RCH, I can't say as I blame you, for wanting to rectify your problem, just consider the following, if you install your checkvlv sys--

--1) Total loss of any warrenty coverage (engine)
--2) contaminants entered into the oil system
--3) overkill for anti backflo oil filters
--4) probability/possibility of CHECKVLV/CO2 BOTTLE failure with resultant loss of oil filter in sys


---I would consider the chances versus the results--GOOD LUCK--

-- :geek: :geek: --JIMBO
 

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JIMBO said:
:clown: Well RCH, I can't say as I blame you, for wanting to rectify your problem, just consider the following, if you install your checkvlv sys--

--1) Total loss of any warrenty coverage (engine)
--2) contaminants entered into the oil system
--3) overkill for anti backflo oil filters
--4) probability/possibility of CHECKVLV/CO2 BOTTLE failure with resultant loss of oil filter in sys


---I would consider the chances versus the results--GOOD LUCK--

-- :geek: :geek: --JIMBO
1) The Dealer would have to prove that my modification caused the failure, and they already have a problem. How can having oil pressure at start up be bad for your engine?
2) It is a closed system that feeds directly from the oil pan and would circulate through the oil filter. eliminating contaminants.
3) The back flow filters don't work properly most of the time anyway.
4) these check valves are installed in racing engines, and Moroso has a good reputation in the racing industry.For that matter, your oil pump can fail too which would be just as bad. I would doubt that with all that oil passing through it that there would be a problem with it. (Even though, anything is possible).

Oil from the engine is fed into the bottle when it is running by way of a solenoid valve. When the ignition is on the valve is open pressurizing the bottle. When you turn your key off, what ever your oil pressure was at the time you turned your engine off is the pressure you will have when you turn your key on at the next start. Then the cycle starts again. I'm not being sarcastic in the least, just trying to answer point by point.
 

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:clown: RCH, you're probably right--

--Just remember, the dealer doesn't have to PROVE anything, he can just deny you service, it's up to you to initiate action--

--And you're right about MOROSO, they have a fantastic reputation, all you have to do is maintain your X 4.0 liter V6 at 6000 rpm constantly and there should be NO PROBLEMO--

--Good luck and I mean that--JIMBO
 

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I'm with jimbo on this one...The burden of proof lies with the accused (sort of like the legal system:)).
 

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mike100 said:
I'm with jimbo on this one...The burden of proof lies with the accused (sort of like the legal system:)).
Is that an opinion or have you had an experience in that area? I Have a good relationship with the service writer because he used to work at a GMC dealership and when I dropped off my wife's Xterra I told him I didn't like the GMC dealer where I had just purchased my 1 ton 4wd with the Duramax diesel. That's when he told me he was at a GM dealership, then he told me that a mechanic who knows diesels came with him. I told him what I planned to do(Pre Oiler) and he thought it was a good idea. So I'm not just "shooting from the hip" here. I have been a machinist in the aerospace industry for 30 years and have a racing background. Maintaining and improving my equipment as well. With all that said, I do realize that, that and a dollar will get me a soda. Without trying to upset anyone, all I asked was a simple question. I didn't ask for opinions on whether I should or should not install this. As far as you analogy goes, The "Burden of proof" would be on them because I would be the one acused of violating the warranty conditions.
 

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it's cool that your local service guy know you aren't a complete jag-off with no technical skills, but what if you need to get work done while on a trip out-of-state? How is it that people don't believe that a dealership won't take the easy way out and say they won't fix your truck under warranty?

So, in essence, you will have to show nissan that the pre--lube system wasn't the cause of whatever hypothetical situation-possibly in arbitration, court, or where ever.

The (financial) burden of proof is on you to prove your point. Major lubrication modifications make for such an easy 'out' for the manufacturer.

On the other hand, the power train warranty is only for 5 years and you'll likely get through it soon enough, in which case this will all be moot.
 

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To address the original question:

would the pre-lube system delay the starter engagement until a certain pressure is reached or would it be an optional thing you could activate with an entirely seperate switch?

My feeling is that the valvetrain noise is not pressure dependent more than it is oil viscosity related as others mention the synthetic helps the condition.
 
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