Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
on line
Joined
·
371 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2006 OR
101,000 miles. Factory clutch (!)
Still seems to be going strong, but it can't last forever.

Two questions:

1.) When it goes, what should I expect to pay for the repair?

2.) Is this something any transmission shop can do (AAMCO, Edwards Transmission, etc..) or is it something I should pay through the nose to specifically have the dealership do?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,072 Posts
Average cost of repair for Zip Code 46219 (should be somewhere near or inside Indianapolis) is between $1490-$1899.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,072 Posts
Lots of labor. Labor guides are calling for a minimum of 9 hours of labor. Depending on labor rates $800-$1200 of the cost is labor alone.
 

·
on line
Joined
·
951 Posts
I did one a while back and it was a 12 hour job with 2 of us working on it, and we both knew what we are doing. It's not an easy job, and definately one that should not be done lying on the ground in your driveway. The transmission and transfer case come out as one unit, and they are incredibly heavy. My clutch is the original with 171k and there is some heavy towing done with it.
 

·
on line
Joined
·
371 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I did one a while back and it was a 12 hour job with 2 of us working on it, and we both knew what we are doing. It's not an easy job, and definately one that should not be done lying on the ground in your driveway. The transmission and transfer case come out as one unit, and they are incredibly heavy. My clutch is the original with 171k and there is some heavy towing done with it.
Yeah, I thought about doing it myself,....for about 4 seconds.
From what I've read in the past, it's not a job for DIY, even if you're a good mechanic.

Looks like the dealership will be getting some more of my money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
I wouldn't say a clutch is a job left for the shop. You can buy a harbor freight transmission jack and do it on stands. That's what I'm going to do when it comes time for that.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Transmission+jack


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
just did this last weekend for a deployed member of SCCX. took me and one other guy 10 hrs, never done an xterra clutch before but we both had plenty of experience between us and didnt run into any major issues. i picked up a jwt clutch and flywheel for the guy with my past employee discount. parts alone will cost you 900 retail for jwt parts, $75 for nissan oil. we did it in a driveway with the HF trans jack and it was no problemo. things you will also need are a torx plus tp55 socket, a regular torx t55 will work but ya know.

pictures from last weekend here
http://www.sccxterra.com/smf/index.php/topic,2071.0.html

dealer book shows it as a 13 hr job, so thats 13 times whatever going labor is around you.
 

·
on line
Joined
·
2,228 Posts
I have done one in a day. Full day, on a hoist. Pulling the exhaust out (it wraps around the bellhousing) is the worst part. And if any of those fasteners are stuck it gets worse. Other then exhaust it is like most other clutch jobs. Driveshafts, shifter, wires, crossmember (which is usually stuck in there pretty good). Putting a jack under the front of the engine to rock it back on the mounts makes mating the two back together a lot easier. I would not want to try it at home on jackstands. The transmission is tall, it would take a really tall set of jackstands to give enough clearance to get the transmission out. best you could hope for is to get it back and fight for room while doing the clutch.

I dread doing mine. But there is a handy external wear indicator no one knows of. Look at the clutch fork as it comes out of the bellhousing. Where the slave cylinder presses on it. The slave pushes to the back to release the clutch. When the clutch is fresh the fork is centered in the boot/hole when engaged. Moves back a little to release. As the clutch wears the fork moves forward, the slave cylinder compresses, extra fluid goes back to the master cylinder. When the clutch wears out that is the same time that the fork reaches the end of the hole in the bellhousing. So crawl under the truck and look at the slave cylinder and clutch fork. Note how far forward it is in the rubber boot/hole for it. That is your external clutch wear indicator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
How low do you have to set the aft of the transmission to get it in and out? This isn't the first time I've heard this, I would say that is the one thing that would hold you back as stated above. I'm sure my big jackstands from harbor freight would suffice.

That's two notches from the top. That combined with tilting the engine back should do it. Love those tall jack stands. Good luck with it.



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
on line
Joined
·
371 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
But there is a handy external wear indicator no one knows of. Look at the clutch fork as it comes out of the bellhousing. Where the slave cylinder presses on it. The slave pushes to the back to release the clutch. When the clutch is fresh the fork is centered in the boot/hole when engaged. Moves back a little to release. As the clutch wears the fork moves forward, the slave cylinder compresses, extra fluid goes back to the master cylinder. When the clutch wears out that is the same time that the fork reaches the end of the hole in the bellhousing. So crawl under the truck and look at the slave cylinder and clutch fork. Note how far forward it is in the rubber boot/hole for it. That is your external clutch wear indicator.
This is fascinating. I will do this tomorrow after the nasty weather passes. Hopefully I'll be able to see what you're talking about.

Thanks.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Why completely remove the transmission from under the truck? We just moved it back and it was plenty of room to remove and install the clutch. If you lift the rear of the truck as high as you can, while keeping the front relatively low, you have plenty of room to tilt the tranny and remove it. Check the pictures in the link I posted for proof
Posted via Mobile Device
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Why completely remove the transmission from under the truck? We just moved it back and it was plenty of room to remove and install the clutch. If you lift the rear of the truck as high as you can, while keeping the front relatively low, you have plenty of room to tilt the tranny and remove it. Check the pictures in the link I posted for proof
Posted via Mobile Device
Because I always have! Guess there isn't much of a reason to, I like to clean out the bell housing really good so I like to get out from underneath the truck for a little while to do that and put the throw out bearing on. Certainly wouldn't need to though. Never thought to set the height differently on the jack stands, that's a good idea.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
OP: Personally I wouldn't bother screwing with a clutch till the thing was slipping like a bastard. Why screw with something that isn't broken?

The Dakota I just traded in on my Xterra had 265,000 kms on it and the clutch never gave any indication of problems. Outside of abuse, I don't see why an Xterra clutch wouldn't go just as far.
 

·
on line
Joined
·
350 Posts
But there is a handy external wear indicator no one knows of. Look at the clutch fork as it comes out of the bellhousing. Where the slave cylinder presses on it. The slave pushes to the back to release the clutch. When the clutch is fresh the fork is centered in the boot/hole when engaged. Moves back a little to release. As the clutch wears the fork moves forward, the slave cylinder compresses, extra fluid goes back to the master cylinder. When the clutch wears out that is the same time that the fork reaches the end of the hole in the bellhousing. So crawl under the truck and look at the slave cylinder and clutch fork. Note how far forward it is in the rubber boot/hole for it. That is your external clutch wear indicator.
Wow, this is interesting. Does anyone have a photo of what these parts look like under the truck? I'd be interested in checking mine, thanks for sharing the tip.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top