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Username: chevy42083

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Make: Nissan
Year: 2009
Model: Xterra
Trim: S
Color: Lightning Silver
Latest Mileage: 84,500 - March 2018

Options:
  • 4x4
  • Automatic
  • OEM Tow Hitch Package
  • Otherwise pretty basic... hence being cheap on a luxury dealer used lot.
MODS

Accessories:
  • receiver hitch Shackle mount - Reese Brand
  • throw away recovery strap - Cheapie offbrand
  • Snatch strap <8000kg / 17,500lb> ARB (2/14/2016)
  • Soft shackle <7/16 / 32,000lbs> Bubba Rope Gator jaw (2/14/2016)
  • TRED Pro sand ramps <7/20/2016>
  • Folding shovel and case <6/4/2016>
Drivetrain
  • SMOD prevention radiator Bypass <ea215 radiator> (2.1.16 @66k miles)
Interior:
  • Pioneer AVH-X2800BS Headunit (3.21.16 @ 67k miles)
  • Window tint
  • Rex Rug aka Rear cargo mat cut from large business floor mat (home depot)
  • Good Year Dog hammock... used with back seat backs up, bottoms flipped forward
  • $15 amazon cargo envelope net <with cheapie anchor points added for bottom mount points> (7/2/2015)
  • OEM nissan cargo cover <6/4/16>
  • Overkill way bright cheapie LED interior lights <6/4/2016>
Exterior:
  • Melt Mod (5.30.15 @ 60k miles)
  • Cheapie LED reverse lights off ebay (oem replacement bulbs) (installed 7/2/2015)
  • Updated reverse lights - JDM Astar<6/4/2016>
  • Sylvania SilverStar Ultra 9007 Headlight bulbs (installed 1/10/16 @ 65k miles)
  • NiLight 6.5in flood lights in grill mouth <9/6/16>
  • <Removed steps> (5.16.15)
  • <Removed mud flaps> (5.16.15)
  • Custom "Natures Love Pin-striping" - hopefully replaced with vinyl wrap at some point.
Armor:
  • steel engine and transfer case skids - Shrockworks; Painted with Tractor Supply "Majic" paint <3/6/16 @66k miles>
  • Aluminum Gas tank Skid - Hefty Fab; raw metal - eta 6/2016
  • Rear bumper w/ hitch - Hardcore Offroad (no tire carrier). <Ordered 2.29.16 / arrived 3.23.16>
  • Sliders - White Knuckle <Ordered 3.2.16 w/ 4-6wk turn time> <installed 6/10/17 @77k miles>
Suspension:
  • Nisstec 2in coil spacers (4/26/15)
  • Nisstec adjustable shackles (at highest setting) (4/26/15)
  • Bilstein 5125 rear shocks (#33-185590) 21.54 in./13.58 in. Extended/Collapsed (3/6/16 @66k miles)
Tires:
  • 285/75r16 BFG KM2 Mud Terrains. (5/30/2015)
  • <Removed: 265/70r16 BF Goodrich Long Trail T/A>
Maintenance:
  • Battery - O'Reilly Super Start - 24REXT - 725cca - 890ca - $136 - 1/23/14 to 12/20/17 (Slow starts for ~1month)
  • Battery - AutoZone DuraLast Gold - 24F-DLG - 750cca - $142 (+$18core) - 12/21/17 to ???
  • Wiper Passenger - RainX Quantum Wiper Blade 19in <probably could fit 21> (1/10/16 @ 65k miles to 12/12/17 @ 82k miles) (scratched window)
  • Wiper Driver - RainX Latitude Wiper Blade 24in Driver (1/29/16 @ 65k miles to 12/12/17 @ 82k miles) (scratched window)
  • Wipers Passenger (20in) and Driver (22in) Wiper - Trico Force (12/12/17 @ 82k miles)
  • Evap Valve (3/26/18 @ 84,500)
Height After lift WITH tires:
Floor to Front fender - 36.25
Floor to Rear fender at door seam - 37.75
Floor to Rear at bumper/gas door - 38
Floor to Rear Shackle - 16in
Floor to Frame, driver door - 13.5
Floor to Front leaf perch - 13.25

Comments:
Goals for rig may change. Been wheeling passenger with my brother, but tired of not having others be able to join due to low seat count. Starting mild with the Xterra, try to keep up... if i like it, and it works... it'll get a bigger lift, skids (some given Xmas 2015), bumpers, sliders, etc. Trying to MOSTLY keep up with a 2dr wrangler on 33s, or at least be able take the bypasses on the trails he's doing.
Offroading isn't my main hobby... I've got 2 motorcycles and a pickup hotrod project to also squeeze my bank account.

Updates aka Table of Contents aka Timeline:
Post 2: TRIP: Playing on the Beach (San Luis/Surfside) - 4.11.15
Post 3: MOD: Nisstec 2in lift - 4.26.15
Post 5: MOD: Removed Steps - 5.16.15
Post 6: MOD: 285/75r16 BFG KM2 and Melt Mod - 5.30.15
Post 8: TRIP: Abandoned HWY 87 between Sabine Pass and High Island - 6.6.15
Post 13: MOD: LED Reverse Lights <cheap> - 7.2.15
Post 17: MOD: Christmas Collections: Skid Plates - 12.25.15
Post 19: MOD: Prepping Shrockworks engine and transfer case skids - 1.18.16
Post 20: GEAR: Gator Jaw Shackle and recovery strap - 2.14.16
Post 33: MOD: Hardcore rear bumper arrival - 3.30.16
Post 45: MOD: Hardcore rear bumper install - 3.30.16
Post 46: TRIP: Hidden Falls Adventure Park - 4.2.16
Post 49: MOD: 285/75r16 KM2 MT behind hardcore bumper - 6.4.16
Post 50: GEAR/MOD: Shovel, cargo cover, LED reverse, LED dome - 6.4.16
Post 51: GEAR: TRED pro sand ramps - 7.20.16
Post 52: Cleaning: Meguiar's Ultimate Black on plastics - 7.20.16
Post 55: Mods: Choosing Fog Lights - 8.04.16


Future mods:
I live in Houston, so full Shrock setup makes sense money wise (without shipping, its cheaper than most any other option), but might look into custom bumper. I prefer the lighter tube work like a Hefty/P&P/N-Fab RDS.
Some extra spacing to keep the doors off the rocks.... wheel spacers, wider offset wheels, TS? (in my dreams).
Lokka? Probably the next most achievable "big" mod.

PHOTOS

(I'll keep the comparison and tech shots in the posts, just a few cool shots here)

4.11.15 - Bone Stock flexing


5.16.15 - Removed Steps


6.6.15 - New 285/75 BFG KM2s and 1st time 3 wheeling... extremely uneventful


3.29.16 - Installed Hardcore Offroad rear bumper
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Playing on the beach
Nothing wild, just an excuse to use 4wd on the beaches around San Luis Pass and Surfside. This was pre-lift, bone stock. Friend just got his truck on the road, and wanted to cruise the beach, even though his 4wd isn't working right now.

Saw a log, decided to climb it... without risking going over and smashing the steps.


He couldn't climb it because of broken 4wd... just pushed it around.

Found a fairly steep washout out to climb...

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Nisstec Lift Install
2in spring spacer / adjustable rear shackle at highest setting (2in)

Height before lift:
Floor to Front fender - 33.375
Floor to Rear fender at door seam - 34.375
Floor to Rear at bumper/gas door - 34.625

Height After lift:
Floor to Front fender - 35.25 (1.875 lift)
Floor to Rear fender at door seam - 36.5 (2.125 lift)
Floor to Rear at bumper/gas door - 36.75 (2.125 lift)

Nisstec spacer is actually ~1.25in thick, advertised to produce 2in of lift.

With 265/70/16 tires and lift installed, Height from floor to frame is 12.75 front and rear. My rear sits higher than front, but the frame steps down in the back too, so same clearance by both front and rear body mounts.

Rear Install time was 45min.
Front install time was 1hr 30min.
Gotta love having an ex-mechanic brother with all the right tools at home. Getting paid clock hours meant the right tool was worth purchasing... so he has quite the collection.

Droop on the front is only 3in. Measured by jacking up that corner of the truck and measuring the fender height when tire just BARELY touches the ground and comparing to the resting fender height. I realize this also takes into account some tire compression with weight on it.... which means actual suspension droop is LESS than 3in? No wonder CBC happens so often and people itch to titan swap. :grin:

Bone Stock....



Rear adjustable shackles at highest setting, no lift up front....



Nisstec 2in front spacers and rear adjustable shackles at highest setting...

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
As mentioned in the comments, this is who I am trying to keep up with, 2003 Sahara, mild lift, 33s, bumpers, sliders, front locker. I may not go EVERYWHERE he can, but want to at least be on the same level trails. Others have modded so much they are on a completely different level.


Different level....
Once you go buggy, the jeep/SUV trails aren't any fun, so he won't be joining us usually. It rides like a Cadillac though...
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Removed Steps and Mud Flaps

I had planned on doing some wheeling at the beach, reportedly with clay mounds to climb over... so I removed the factory steps. Unfortunately, we happened to arrive at high tide, and questioned the legality of it. After some research... we are allowed to go around the sign (either in the surf, or at low tide, or just squeeze by). This section of road ran along the Texas coast between High Island and Sabine Pass. After multiple hurricanes and regular erosion, the state abandoned it. It's now no mans land.

We are parked on the oncoming lanes, I'm standing in the opposing lanes... you can see the left overs of the road that has worn away. Basically, where the drop off is has yellow paint marking the former center line. Beyond the sign, MOST of the road is gone... completely gone in some areas, leaving just a wild/rough beach, with scattered asphalt and occasional clay boulders (road base).


Since we weren't sure at the time, we turned around and headed to the plain ol' beach everyone goes to... a lowered car wouldn't have any troubles here. :(


It did make for a nice "maden voyage" with the dog. We usually leave him at home. Folded up seat, moving blanket, and a dog bed meant he was perfectly comfortable in the back.


No step bars does make it look quite a bit taller.


Next time we'll plan better and hit the more difficult beach.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
285/75r16 BFG KM2 on factory wheels with Melt Mod​

285/75r16 - ~$1300 installed for 4 tires, with warrenty/certs, and TPMS rebuild kits. Choosing size... ummm.... look around on here and you'll know it wasn't much of a decision. Biggest possible without trimming. First impression... me likey! They feel like a gravel road under 15mphs, and hum above that... but not excessively IMO. Same tire, bigger size, sounds WAY worse on my brothers jeep (soft top/no top, 315 or 305 size). The Xterra is civilized enough to keep the noise out. It is noticeably slower, but not TOO slow. It's still got more pep than the re-geared wrangler or my 4.3L S10 Blazer on 30s.
They actually ride smoother than the rugged trails over the harsh cracks/reflectors/small speed bumps. They swerve like a water bed though. I tend to drive fast/aggressive... that now needs to change a bit. On the way home from the tire store someone pulled out in front of me... I got hard on the brakes (not panic hard) and changed lanes... felt like the back end changed lanes first. Maybe the tires were still greasy.

Height After lift WITH tires:
Floor to Front fender - 36.25
Floor to Rear fender at door seam - 37.75
Floor to Rear at bumper/gas door - 38
Floor to Rear Shackle - 16in
Floor to Frame, driver door - 13.5
Floor to Front leaf perch - 13.25

I've confirmed that the OEM scissor jack DOES go high enough to lift the front tires off the ground when lifting on the frame. Haven't checked the rear because I assume i'd always be able to lift under the axle.

Melt mod - I used a heat gun, a rubber mallet, and a 1x4. Heat gun on low... high melted the plastic and it stuck to my 1x4. oops. I mainly just wedged the mallet in when I could, otherwise applied pressure with the 1x4 until the plastic cooled enough to hold the new shape. Took about 30minutes total. The bottom corner didn't get pushed in, just the flat area above it. That bottom corner MIGHT have metal behind it... don't remember. It might have just been that the plastic was really thick here. If needed, I'll pull the plastic and hammer on that area. I didn't remove anything for the melt mod, and didn't hammer on anything (mallet was just thick enough to wedge between tire and plastic.

On to the pics...

Here's the clearance with the stock size tires at the closest point (wheel slightly turned)...


Here's the clearance with the 285/75r16 BFG KM2 tires.


Close, but plenty of room. Hasn't rubbed during normal driving (in and out of driveways, etc). I haven't flexed it out while parked to see how close it'll be.


Definitely changes the attitude/look of the truck...




They just BARELY stick out of the fenders. I may get some SMALL spacers, if they'll fit without trimming fender metal. The idea being to keep the doors away from ledges in off-camber ditches/ruts.


Updates:
Installed: 5/30/2015 - 61,000mi
Rotated: 3/29/16 - 67,400mi (~7,000 miles)- lots of chopping
Rotated: 12/28/16 - 74,500mi (7,100miles) - lots of chopping. I know... need to stay on this better.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
^Thank you! I know it's VERY basic... same stuff as 90% of the guys on here... but it's a start.

I made another beach run on June 6th, 2015... seeking out the "wild" beach... something a little tougher, and less beaten... the same beach we attempted to get to 3 posts up. Abandoned hwy 87 between Sabine Pass and High Island. This time around we headed to the east end, got on at the Sabine pass side and headed west to High Island. I also checked the tide charts to make sure it wouldn't be high tide this time.
At start, tide was at the mid-day low, 1.47ft. It was rising slightly to ~1.6ft by the time we left, but that's a low peak and then it drops down to 0 around midnight. Last trip was +1.78... so no worries this time.

I'll just narrate the pictures.

On the Sand portion is 18.8 miles, and took us 2hrs with one quick stop for a drink, shell hunting, and getting stuck in a DUMB way.

Last gas/drink stop in Port Arthur before heading south onto the beach.
Tire envy... the 285s LOOK big, until you see largers.


First portion is pretty wide, and pretty packed with families and fishermen. Well packed sand, no issues AT ALL for any vehicle.


Then it clears out a bit, still packed, remainder of hwy 87 off to the side... with lots of signs to stay out of that area. You can see that the recent high tides would push you right up to the old road... and it's narrower later.


I've seen pictures of this suburban from YEARS ago... not much left now. It was 20min from the east end.


By this point, my brother said i was going to slow and passed me... so we didn't lolly-gag and get out to look anything over. This boat was 45min from the east end.


My brother told me not to take this pic because it was embarassing. I'd agree... i'm hoping there will be some improvement in the future. I attempted to climb the log. 1 second later he gave me the kill it signal and said I was done. Somehow the left rear managed to dig a hole so deep it wasn't touching anymore.... that's full droop with stock shocks. Right rear was on the bumpstops (or within 1/4in). Right front was 1/3 of the way up the wheel. This mashed up shell/sand mixture is SOFT. We had traveled football field long sections of it earlier and it simply felt mushy as you drove through it. 2wd took some speed... and not stopping... 4wd was a cake walk.


Then my brother tried to drive the length of the log a 2nd time... but rear tire slid off and he got hung up on the trailing arm and shock mounts. Like i said, it's soft... dug in RIGHT away.


Nothing a couple yanks couldn't solve. I did start to bury mine in the shell stuff before moving over a couple feet to the more solid sand near the water.

The log was roughly at the 1/2 way point. Beyond that, more soft sand, more shell, nothing too exciting... but not well beaten easy to drive beach either.

Once you get closer to the high island end, there were 2 fairly deep muddy crossings. Some thick clay like mud, about 2 car lengths long. Not a problem at all with my tires and clearance... a stock 4wd, or something on street tires might've been looking to take a bypass on the old hwy just past the bushes.

Then lots more wide open beach. High tide is high enough that there isn't anything soft for most of it. Lots of black-top road debri spread around. There seems to be quite a bit of road left near this end, and no signs to say keep off it. Many 2wd people were parked on the old road and playing on the beach. Lots of clay road base around there to climb on as well, but we were in a hurry, and not really sure this area needs someone helping mother nature tear away at it.


That sign up there? That's the one we couldn't get around during high tide 3 posts above this.


The silver car is EXACTLY where we took the above pictures with the S10.


Once home i checked it over. Right tire rubbed frame SLIGHTLY when flexed out.


Left rear rubbed the plastic, but it has room to give a bit.


Not much mud stuck... it was THICK, but not soupy. Time to hose off the salty dirt, sand, and mud.
 

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Love the pictures and progress. Was wondering if you have any concerns about the angle of the cv's with the spacers up front. I'm leaning toward ordering a lift, just deciding between suspension or spacer and shackle. Again, great thread man &#55357;&#56397;
 

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Love the pictures and progress. Was wondering if you have any concerns about the angle of the cv's with the spacers up front. I'm leaning toward ordering a lift, just deciding between suspension or spacer and shackle. Again, great thread man ��
the ball joints will limit your suspension travel before your cv's start to bind, FYI.

My opinion tho, is go with a nice suspension lift and skip the spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks.

Spacers, springs, etc.... all have limited droop by the stock upper control arm hitting the coil bucket. Once you get tubular upper control arms... limited by balljoints (I think). Either way... it's not the CV. With increased angles, everything will wear more/quicker... but the lift type won't change anything with the CVs (unless you go drop bracket). Even with the larger angles, it doesn't trash them.... just makes them wear quicker (though don't stomp the gas, at full lock, with wheels at full droop).

Personally, If i armor up, I'll be swapping in stronger springs. That's why I went with the cheaper spacer option (for now). I don't know if I'm getting a light pre-runner bumper or a plate bumper and a winch, so I couldn't choose spring weight yet. Same thing with shackles. Eventually, I'll get heavier sprung leaves, with 1in/1.5in of lift, and use the adjustable shackles to get the total amount I want/need. This just gets me up in the air for beginner wheeling, start other mods, then I'll revisit the ideal suspension needed (springs, adjustable coilovers, titan swap, etc).

The oem rear springs are notorious for flattening out, especially with lift shackles. Consider that, and just how low the shackles hang, before you commit to shackle lift. I expect them to drag once I do some drop offs.... but maybe it'll save the plastic corners?

From the lift post above...
Floor to Rear Shackle - 16in
Floor to Frame, driver door - 13.5in
Floor to Front leaf perch - 13.25in
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
LED Reverse Lights <cheap>​

First of all... I didn't expect miracles. These are $2 ebay lights. I have been impressed with some cheapie LED lights in the past on my motorcycle.... I have sealed button head bolt license plate lights that light up the entire ground behind the bike. So, I decided to give some reverse lights a shot. There's a member on here selling some HIGH END reverse replacement lights that appear to give off light like an LED pod... these are not those.

Comparison
I drove for a week with just one LED installed... just to compare. Obviously a difference in light color. Main other difference is the shape of the light output... almost like floods compared to spots. Makes sense since the LEDs have multiple bulbs scattered all over. As far as actual brightness... about the same really... LED may be a little brighter. I like it better in theory.... but on the beach, or backed up to waist high grass, you actually can't tell a difference in the soft edge or brightness. But backing into a garage, it seems much brighter.

Pros
  • More scattered light. Seems to light 90deg out from the light.
  • "Brighter" white light grabs attention from others. e.g. when backing out in a parking lot.
  • Seems much brighter against light colors and reflectors.
Cons
  • BARELY fit into the housing. Had to twist them around till the odd-shaped side bulb placement squeezed into the housing.
  • Squeezed in.... so removal may be touchy. Don't want it coming off the socket and floating in the tail-light. It will just take a bit of care.
  • Didn't seem brighter out in the "wild"... beach and brush. NOT a replacement for POD lights.
  • Some slight "flickering" in the small leds on the sides.... after 1 week. Not steady, and seemed to go away. So we'll see how long they last.
These are what I bought. The large light with a lense on the top is similar looking to my really bright motorcycle license plate lights... which is why i chose these.
New 12W HID White 921 T15 White Backup Reverse LED Lights Projector Lens Bulbs | eBay

Since I know the ebay auction link will go bad eventually....


In garage comparison... picture taken looking back from driver seat with hatch open. Notice the "spot" oem vs "flood"-like LED.


True white, as compared to the sun.


I know it doesn't really tell you anything without knowing the exposure/aperture/etc... or having a matching picture with oem at same settings... but thought I'd share anyways...





EDIT: 3.10.16 -Lights seem to flicker more consistently now. Not ALL the time, but not rarely either. Its not the whole light, just like one or 2 of the individual LEDs is going out. Next time I get bored I may pull the light to see if they are all still firing... hard to tell through the lens. I'll just say, YES, they are cheapie lights.
EDIT again: Look ahead in the thread, I swapped these for some slightly more expensive lights from AStar and have been MUCH happier.
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/50-members-xterra/153113-chevy42083s-mild-rig-build-5.html#post3256786
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I keep meaning to head to Port Aransas (I've driven every bit of beach possible between Louisiana and Freeport)... time to venture further out. Please post up about your trip, i've never been that way at all, much less on the beach. I hear it's MUCH nicer than the beaches/water around Galveston.

I do have some advice, but rather than copy/paste... I'll link where i posted it.
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=163298
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Not installed yet... but collected some parts for Xmas....

Bought myself into the TRED Pro Kickstarter for their set of up coming newly improved sand ramps. Ended up being $130 U.S.

My girl got some Shrockworks goodies for me.... Engine and Transfer case skids. She called one day, was able to setup the purchase with no shipping cost, and I THINK a holiday discount... received a call the next day that they were ready for pick up. She drove on over after work and walked in wearing a skirt/high heels... luckily they loaded them up for her. So, they've been stashed under our upstairs guest bed for over a month now. So, they have a rep for a long wait time.... maybe skids are easy enough to crank out, maybe they had some in stock... but she was definitely pleased with their phone help and turn time.
They are non-powder coated... so I'll be spray canning them and installing my next free weekend. Once I decide on bumper/sliders, I may do a group powder coating of everything.
I'm holding out on radiator skid till I know what front bumper I go with. Gas skid will probably be aluminum or oem pro4x... I don't think that one will take any hits... just sliding.

Also got a pair of rear bilstein 5100 shocks from my brother, as he knew the oem shocks were limiting droop/flex.

Next on my wish list is sliders... simply cause i know EXACTLY what I want (white knuckle)... then I need to decide on bumpers.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
^Thanks. Itching to attack it like you have yours, but trying to show SOME restraint.

I've been working on prepping the few skid plates I got for christmas, Shrockworks transfer case and engine.

Debating the paint for sliders/bumper... so I wanted to test it out on the skids. Rustoleum hammered paint, or "Majic tractor/implement paint" from Tractor supply company in "New Holland Red". Yes, the entire paint line is named/matched to tractor colors. The tractor paint says it needs to be above 70deg.... so my options have been limited recently. They also make a "diamond hard" paint, but it's brush on, wasn't in stock, and as everyone says, nothing will hold up to rocks. Might be good for sliders, then just touch up the underside.

Prep work involved a wire wheel on drill, scotch bright pad, and acetone.

Before prep.


After a few coats of Hammered paint, with time to "flash dry" in between. Very hard to get an over all even look.


Getting a uniform texture with this stuff is difficult... especially on uneven surfaces. I caked it on thick to see if the big texture would come through... but it didn't evenly.


Prepping the underside for paint.


Majic tractor paint primer


"Are you done yet, I have a comfy couch inside"


No need for another post, I'll just edit and add to this. I added the first coat of "New Holland Red" Majic Tractor/Implement spray paint from Tractor Supply Co. after a some light scuffing with a heavy scotchbrite pad. It was warm enough, but quite windy... so the paint didn't go down very smooth. I'd give it a light sanding and make sure my final coat is under better weather (i was just happy to be able to paint in mid January). The paint seemed to go on pretty thin, but they say several thin coats are better anyways.





 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Valentines gifts from my girl....
ARB Snatch strap <8000kg / 17,500lb>
Bubba Rope Gator jaw Soft shackle <7/16 / 32,000lbs>


Yeah, I work slow.
Got the final paint on the underside of the skids awhile ago. I thought I'd already posted these, but I guess not. I was impatient on waiting for warm enough days, so it was pretty windy on the weekends it was warm enough to leave them out in the sun (1 week between primer and each coat). Therefor, the paint didn't go on glass smooth... has a light texture to it. It definitely "feels" harder than the Hammered rustoleum stuff, both to the finger nail and to the light scratching with a screw driver. I did 2 light coats, followed with a heavier coat. Only 1 can for both skids. but it's almost empty.

"New Holland Red". It's hard to get red to come out in bright light, but yes.... it is a BRIGHT red, despite being darker than the other tractor colors.






Close up to show "texture". It is NOT supposed to come out that way. Should be smooth and glossy, but I'm OK with it. Color is WAY off, picture was in a dark garage.
 
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