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Discussion Starter #1
All,

I've read many of the "leaking pinion seal" posts and haven't found the info I'm looking for.

While getting new tires on my son's Xterra (2006 S 4WD, auto), the mechanic noticed leakage from the rear differential front seal. The other seals look fine.

He says that seals rarely just go bad on thier own and that typically the pinion bearing needs replacing. A bearing accounts for $125 of the $445 quoted (half the cost is 3 hours of labor).



Does this sound reasonable? I could not determine this from the posts here.
 

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Well, it's not a simple yes or no question here.
Here is some pretty good info:
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57000&highlight=replacing+pinion+seal

I would double check that your mechanic is actually following these steps if he plans to do the seal. I checked my local Nissan dealership just to see what they said the process was, the service writer didn't know so one of the actual technichians came out to talk to me. His exact description of how they did it was "just zip it on with an air gun". Not cool. He went on to explain that it was so "high torque" that the air gun would do the trick. I took my ball and went home.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. The posts helped clarify what I was reading in the shop manual.

Will speak with the mechanic and see if his replies match up with the manual and what I've read here.
 

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I would try the replacement myself, but don't have a garage or proper tools at my son's apartment here in Laramie, and I fly home Friday. I did find a different shop here in Laramie to check this out, though. A lot of their work caters to the local off road crowd, and two other places recommended him when I asked around.
 

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Just got back from the dealerhip and they said the seal is bad on mine too. (80K miles) They quotes $300, but a 4x4 shop in town can do it for parts plus $90 for labor (with warranty).

What parts will I need to get from the dealership to bring to these guys? (I also need a breather valve.)
 

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Mark the position of the nut to the flange with whiteout, paint pen or scribe and when you put the nut back on match it up.
 

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Mark the position of the nut to the flange with whiteout, paint pen or scribe and when you put the nut back on match it up.
Nut to pinion, not nut to flange. You can put the flange on at different indexes to the pinion splines, making your reference mark pointless.
 

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I'm sure Buck is implying that the companion flange is also put back in the original position as well, allowing for the factory alignment of the driveshaft. The markings should align the pinion, nut, and flange to original position.
 

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Same thing happened to mine, seems like this is not just me having the pinion leak. cost over 400 bucks in the Bay Area but this is a very expensive place to have a car/truck fixed.
 
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