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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a set of extended lines to install, I'm contemplating having a local place do it and flush the fluid,but have a few questions before I decide. I try to do all my own work but have never installed lines, how much fluid comes out when you disconnect them? I can figure out the bleeding part based on info I've read ,how long should it take to swap 4 lines and bleed? I don't have a garage, and its pretty cold out, so we'll see.

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It took me about 10 min to remove the front ones (needed a torch to loosen them) and 5 min to install the new ones. Just make sure the banjo bolt has 2 washers; 1 between the brake line and the caliper and the other between the banjo bolt and the brake line. Bleeding is easy if you use the hose into bottle of fluid method (this way you can bleed the brakes by your self as the fluid will prevent the tube from sucking air back in the line if submerged).
 

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Super engineer Jeff's quote straight from the FSM...
Bleeding instruction from the FSM. Power needs to be off to the ABS actuator and the bleeding sequence is not intuitive:

• Do not let brake fluid splash on the painted surfaces of the body. This might damage the paint, so
when splashing it, immediately wipe off the area and wash away with water.
• Before servicing, disconnect ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) connector or battery negative
terminal.
• While bleeding, monitor the master cylinder brake fluid level.
1. Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) connector or battery
negative terminal.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear right bleed valve.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With brake pedal depressed, loosen bleed valve to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten bleed valve to the specified torque. Refer to BR-33, "Exploded View of Brake Caliper" (front disc
brake), BR-38, "Exploded View of Brake Caliper" (rear disc brake).
7. Perform steps 2 to 6 at each wheel, with master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air
from the front left, rear left, and front right bleed valve, in that order.

Cheers,
Jeff
How To Bleed w/ 1 Person (this is just to show you the bottle technique I was referring to, no need to watch the whole thing):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5fAK6qj4tc
 

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Cool,thanks. I may pull the trigger on a motive bleeder system and be done with it.

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Please let us know how you make out with the motive... I attempted a DIY power bleeder and was not impressed. I'd like to know if the Motive works out well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Please let us know how you make out with the motive... I attempted a DIY power bleeder and was not impressed. I'd like to know if the Motive works out well.
I will when I get it. Your in CT too,weather has not been great for messing with brakes outside as you know.

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Good info. How long are the factory brake lines? Front and back. I"m looking at getting a few xtra inches because i'm putting in a spacer and shacke lift
thanks
 

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So I guess this is an appropriate semi-dead thread to resurrect.

I bought Extended lines from Nisstec when I got my Alcan's and Radflo's. I did the rears no problem, but when I got to the front I noticed I had a 2-piece setup. It was also waaaaay longer than it needed to be. I thought it was maybe supposed to replace the 2 line setup, but it didn't seem to have the right fitting on the distribution block-end so I didn't even attempt it.

So my questions are:

1. Are the extended brake lines supposed to replace the 2-piece setup, and if they are, could someone post a pic of where it is supposed to land? Again, I traced the second line back to what looked like a distribution block, but my end on the new hose didn't seem to match the end of the stock hose.

2. I ordered a set of non-extended SS brake lines with the front having 2 pieces. After my lift the brake likes look fine at full droop, but I do not have new UCA's yet. Do I need the extended lines once I get the UCA's? I have read other people saying they have 3" SL and 2" BL and they don't have any issues.

3. Would you return the stock-size ones, and try to make the extended ones work with my setup (2" SL, and never plan on anything bigger unless I T-Swap) or would you use the 2-piece fronts, even knowing that I'm getting UCA's at some point?
 

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JSexton, I have 2.5" Extended Travel radflo's, no UCA's yet, but I plan on adding them. I do not plan on adding spacers. And if I TS, it won't be for a long time and this will be moot anyway.

NYX,

This is what it looks like just held up to the stock rubber line. It is waaaaay too long:

Another view of where it lands:


However, if I kind of line it up like it would be going into the distibution block, the length looks more reasonable:



What I'm calling the distibution block


The non-caliper end has a female fitting. The rubber hose ending has a female ending, and the block has a female to accept a male-ending hose. So logically, it would seem as though it would only replace the rubber line, but how is it that 'fing big! Is it supposed to be like that? Do I zip tie them to the control arm or something>
 

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Damn dude, I have TS Specific extended lines and they are much shorter. Those may be specific for replacing the "2" piece design if the length works, as you suggested. i just never heard of the option. With the fitting mid line, that would have to be for both lines. As the standard extended lines don't have that extra length past the fitting.
 

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OR, does this end go into the end of the brake line? Provided the size is right...


I guess I don't know what that block is, but now that I'm thinking about it, it just looks like a simple connector. Am I right?
 

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Damn dude, I have TS Specific extended lines and they are much shorter. Those may be specific for replacing the "2" piece design if the length works, as you suggested. i just never heard of the option. With the fitting mid line, that would have to be for both lines. As the standard extended lines don't have that extra length past the fitting.
OK, so yeah, it seems as though I have much, much longer lines that what most people who get extended lines would get. I bought the 4" Extended lines from Nisstec (at least I think I got them there, I don't see any goodrich lines on there now), and these look to be about 12" extended lol.

I guess if that block doesn't do anything, I can use the male end coming from the ABS going into that block to fit into the hose, then just secure the hose.

This is one damn long brake line....
 

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Does the "non caliper" end have a hole to remove the block and mount the line? I'll be a nisstec Friday and can check out what they have. But I feel you would remove the distribution block and screw the end into the new brake line. However the only point of swapping in the SS lines if to replace the rubber lines from expansion, thus providing a quicker response. So to replace the hard line as well doesn't seem necessary, but a nice option.
 

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There is a really good video on youtube to change brakelines for an xterra or frontier. I'd link you but youtube is blocked at my work. should be really easy to find. Its really detailed on how to put on the stainless lines.
 

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Does the "non caliper" end have a hole to remove the block and mount the line? I'll be a nisstec Friday and can check out what they have. But I feel you would remove the distribution block and screw the end into the new brake line. However the only point of swapping in the SS lines if to replace the rubber lines from expansion, thus providing a quicker response. So to replace the hard line as well doesn't seem necessary, but a nice option.
Yeah, the more I look at those pics, the more I think you're right. The length makes sense where it would replace the rubber and the hard line. But, like you said, it doesn't seem to need it since it is already a hard line, and honestly is probably better than a SS section.

There would be a hole, if I remove that bolt, I can then take the block off, screw the male end of the top hose into the female end of the brake line, and zip tie it through the hole to secure it.

I can't believe I'm the only one who has ever had a line this long. The kit is Goodrich 4-21115 Xtera(sic)/Frontier Extended 4" 05+ according to the box.

Oh well, if that male end will fit into the end of the hose, I'll do that and call it a day, and return the SS kit that is coming.

Thanks!
 

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Wait, just googled the kit number, and it says for 05-06 Xterras and Frontiers. I don't see how it would ONLY fit and 05 and 06, unless something changed I'm not aware of. But the box says 05+. Im so confused :confused:
 

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Finally got around to this, finally figured out that this end, does in fact thread into the long brake line:


However, there must be 2 different sets floating around. One set has one single long-ass line like I showed in the pictures above. And another set had a 2-piece. I bought both, so I don't need the 2-piece. But Holy ****, what a difference these make! The bleeding sequence sucks, but once you get it right it feels like a completely different truck. I also installed my EBC Yellow Stuff and Slotted/Dimpled Rotors at the same time, that also probably had something to do with it also. But hot damn, I can stop quick now, even with all the extra weight.
 
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