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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm putting a bull bar (Yea, I know they suck) on my truck. Both of the holes in the frame that didn't have the Tow Hook are a huge bitch to screw into. I literally can't screw either screw in completely, about 1/4 is left.

Any ideas? I don't have a torque wrench or anything.
 

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Take them off

Clean the holes with small wire brush and grease

Is there a lot of resistance from the beginning or does it get tighter the further the screw goes in?

Is it all 4 bolts?

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[Damnit Phong, you beat me]

I think someone is telling you something: *hint-hint*

I Kidd I kidd. Try to clean out the threads with a cylindrical wire brush. Usually found in the brass pipe section of a hardware store. (used to clean out holes and tubing)

By trying to tighten it more, your compressing the rust deeper into the threads thus causing unwanted binding against the bolts. Once the threads are cleaned out and less rust buildup is in there, a little anti seize and it will thread like butter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Take them off

Clean the holes with small wire brush and grease

Is there a lot of resistance from the beginning or does it get tighter the further the screw goes in?

Is it all 4 bolts?
Phong, my man.
They start off easy and get progressively harder.
Just the bolts on the right (When you're looking at the Truck.) If there was two tow hooks it wouldn't be a problem, those screws went it easy.
 

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North American Curt-Phong Love Association aside, if the cleaning doesn't work, your next option is to re-tap the threads, though the last time I tried that I broke the weld nut inside one of my frame members and couldn't recover the tap (the top half of it, along with the nut, are still bouncing around inside that frame member). Hopefully the the weld nuts for the tow hook are made of sterner stuff.

Failing that, drill out the threads, tap for the next biggest size, and use corresponding bolts.
 

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I just re-tapped the hole in my frame, same holes you're having problems with, to install my shrock. Ran the tap through it and the bolt threaded right in. $6 tap off eBay and my problem was solved.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
At least he removed his mug flaps!
At the running boards as well. This is a bit of an old picture.
I just re-tapped the hole in my frame, same holes you're having problems with, to install my shrock. Ran the tap through it and the bolt threaded right in. $6 tap off eBay and my problem was solved.


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I'm gonna hope it doesn't come to that. lol

I went to Lowes and they didn't have a tooth brush sized metal brush, so I got the smallest they had. I also picked up some steel wool that's the most abrasive they make. I didn't get a chance to really play around with it. I'll grab a screw driver and use that to try to make sure I can clean the top of the hole. We'll have to see.
 

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steel wool isnt gonna do crap, and if you didnt get a small enough brush to fit in there, thats gonna do absolutely nothing either. If there has never been bolts in those holes before, its probably rusted too much for a wire brush to even clean. You NEED to run a tap through those threads. Its really easy to do, but its one of those things if you don't have the right tool, you're not gonna get it to work. Get the right size tap, put some oil on it and start running it into the threaded hole. Make sure youre not tapping NEW threads into the thing, just cleaning the existing ones. Once you get it started, turn it maybe 1/2 rotation, see if it starts to get hard to turn. If it does, back it off 1/4 turn, and then go another 1/2 turn (repeat this process until you can thread the tap all the way in and it runs through nice and smooth). You'll start to feel when its cutting rust out and when its not. The key is, that you don't want to just run the tap all the way straight in. Thats how you break the tap off in the hole, and then you're in a worse situation than when you started. Take your time, use lots of oil for lubricant, and do it right. I should've done this when I installed my shrock bumper, but instead I thought an impact gun would just break the rust free...well I busted the weld nut on the inside of the frame so now one of my bolts is about 1/2 tightened and will just spin. Just do it right the first time and you won't regret it. BTW, "doing it right" this whole process may take you a whopping 5-10 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
How much are taps? Sorry, my knowledge with tools isn't a strong suit lol
 

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http://www.amazon.com/M12-1-25-HSS-Hand-Taps/dp/B005RG8V6M

I wouldn't pay $12 to ship one...try a local Fastenal. For some reason I can always find metric taps there, but never the bolts to match...

Technically you do need a tap holder, but an adjustable wrench will work in a pinch (even a box-end wrench or ratchet). Just keep it straight.
 

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How much are taps? Sorry, my knowledge with tools isn't a strong suit lol
If you just buy the one you need, its prob only a few bucks. You'll need a tap handle tho also. I say with the tap handle, 10-15 bucks. You shouldn't need to go crazy and buy a top of the line super hardened tap, you're just cleaning out the threads, but at the same time you probably want something a little better than a cheap china piece of junk. Personally, I bought a tap and die set from harbor freight for like 20 bucks or so that comes with almost everything you would ever need. Its cheap as ****, and the handle is busted (which I need to replace and get something nicer) but for how cheap it was, it has served its purpose many times.
 
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