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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Intro Comments: Bought the truck back in August 2015, with 53K but haven't had anything exciting done to the X to make it worth it. After 2 years, here I am, finally taking a few hours making my build page.



Xterra's Nickname: X



Make: Nissan

Year: 2011

Model: Xterra

Trim: S 4x4

Color: Super Black



Sitting at 86k as of JUNE 23, 2017; 100k as of March 28, 2018;110k March 18, 2019



MODS



Suspension/Tires:

-BFG KO2 265/75/16 Tires

-1.25” wheel spacers (precision european motorwerks(ebay))



FRONT

-Radflo 2.0 Extended Coilover w/650lbs

-Nisstec 1" spacer

-New Bolt to Fix Radflo Clunk

-SPC UCA

-Moog Cam Bolts



REAR

-PRG Dual AAL

-3 Degree shim

-Bilstein Rear Shock 5125

-PRG Shackle

-timbren bump stop (6/12/2020)


Powertrain/Under The Hood:

-Gas Strut Hood Mod

-Xentec HID Kit

-Oil Catch Can

-Rear Diff Breather Mod

-K&N Drop-in Filter

-Pyle plus PA

-Odyssey 35-PC1400T

-XTP IMS (7/30/2019)


Exterior:

-roterra rear bumper (6/8/2020)

-P&P Full Skids

-P&P Sliders lvl2

-Custom DepHep Roof Basket

-No Spill System

-Curt Hitch Receiver

-Locking Wet Box Handle

-16” Rear Wiper and Spring Mod

-Stubby Antenna(broke off 9/9/17)

-ARB Awning 2000

-Firestix FS3B

-Firestik K4

-Diamond k-400

-Hidden winch(wam bumpers)

-Airflow Snorkel



Lighting:

-(2) 4” 120W spot light (swap to yellows 6/20/20)

- 42” LED light bar

-(2) 6.3”x1.8” 18w spot light for rear

Interior:

-2 x 17" Craftsman Storage Under Seat

-Interior LED Lights

-Pioneer AVH-X2700BS

-Pioneer ND-BCD6 Universal Rear Back-up Cam

-Bracketron MVM4505 Multi Vechicle Mounting

-Hidden Garage Opener

-Heavy Duty D-ring Cargo

-Xterra OEM Frist Aid Kit

-Cockpit Holster

-Compass Mirror

-Midland 1001LWX CB



Recovery Gear:

-ARB 30ft Snatch Strap

-Rugged Ridge 3/4 D-ring (2)

-TRED PRO

-Tuff Stuff Receiver Hitch

-Smittybilt XRC-9.5 Gen2 Winch with Synthetic Line

-Smittybilt A.W.S

-TGL 3" 8' tree saver 30,000lbs

-Hi Lift jack

-Scepter MFC 5gallon x2

-HF shovel

-ARB shackle 9000





Removed:

-Front & rear Sway Bar

-Mud Flaps

-Lobo Rack

-Rear Cargo Rack(got abuse)





Future Mod:

-Hidden Winch (done)

-Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier

-Gobi Ladder



PHOTOS


Day I tied the Knot.





And as it sits now. (2/17/18)








10/27/18





 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Got a local welder to fab a dephep for me.

powder coated

installed


Suspension lift came in

stock w/ 1.5 spacer vs radflo extended 2.0

Got them installed



New shoes KO2
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Why'd you get rid of the Lobo shelf? I'm still loving mine.



And I'm definitely planning some sort of rear cargo rack like the one you linked to.


I needed more space on top when using the cargo rack. So i had to take it off.


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Discussion Starter #9
I was just curious about my alignment. I read threw some of the threads and didnt want to resurrect any old threads. But took my x back to tire plus (a diff location then the first) to get another alignment done. Hoping that they would be able to fix my toe. But they didnt. I do have cam bolts and SPC Uca and they still couldlnt set it straight? Are they not adjusting the SPC? kinda funny how they noted that my lift kit will void the life time. When the first time i went to the first tire shop, they ask me why i needed an alignment and i told them that i did a 2" SL, they offer and told me about the lifetime alignment.







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looks like all they did was adjust the Toe... I'd either take it back, or cut your losses and go to a shop in the area that specializes in lifted vehicles and knows what they are doing.
 

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Toe is adjusted last. They should be adjusting camber/caster with your cam bolts and SPC arms first, and then do the toe adjustment at the very end. The toe is adjusted using the tie rods and SPC arms/cam bolts should not affect the ability to tune in the toe at all.

In the future, I would try a different shop. Les Schwab has given me a good experience. Runs around $65 for alignment. I usually ask to see the tech when they are about to adjust my truck and make sure he knows that certain parts can be used to align. E.g. last time I went in and said "don't touch the cam bolts - I have those set where I want. See if you can align with just the SPC adjustments".
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Toe is adjusted last. They should be adjusting camber/caster with your cam bolts and SPC arms first, and then do the toe adjustment at the very end. The toe is adjusted using the tie rods and SPC arms/cam bolts should not affect the ability to tune in the toe at all.

In the future, I would try a different shop. Les Schwab has given me a good experience. Runs around $65 for alignment. I usually ask to see the tech when they are about to adjust my truck and make sure he knows that certain parts can be used to align. E.g. last time I went in and said "don't touch the cam bolts - I have those set where I want. See if you can align with just the SPC adjustments".

This alignment looks OK to me though... does it drive weird or something?


Yeah i may have to just take it to a diff shop and maybe talk a bit about adjusting the SPC. If that makes any diff.
But no it drives fine. But just the ideal of the right toe not being straight and you can really see the difference looking at it up front too that bothers me. Knowing that the right front tires will wear differently.


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Your camber is WAY out. Did you grind the coil bucket so that the SPC ball joint can be pushed to the back of the slot? If not, do.... to make sure the boot doesn't tear.

With the cam bolts and the SPC's you should be able to get the camber at or seriously near zero..... Make sure they see the 150 ft lb torque spec.

Caster looks great, and toe should damn near dead on.

Go somewhere else.

Edit: thank god you took those hideous wheel off that poor thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Your camber is WAY out. Did you grind the coil bucket so that the SPC ball joint can be pushed to the back of the slot? If not, do.... to make sure the boot doesn't tear.

With the cam bolts and the SPC's you should be able to get the camber at or seriously near zero..... Make sure they see the 150 ft lb torque spec.

Caster looks great, and toe should damn near dead on.

Go somewhere else.

Edit: thank god you took those hideous wheel off that poor thing.
you have a pic to share of how it looks like? i dont have a nice grinder, when doing the install i was only able to grind a tad bit only and thought that would do the job. but if you push yours all the way back then maybe thats what i need to do.
 

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Beg, borrow or _____ ..... a grinder the 4 1/2" angle grinder type.

If you did the install then you know how to do it. Obviously you gotta take it apart. loosen the ball joint and move it back to the very back of the slot, and check where it looks like it will hit. Grind the lip of the bucket in a nice easy arch directly behind the ball joint, until it clears easily. Put it back together with ball joint at th back of the slot and go for another alignment.

Just make sure the knucklehead doing the alignment knows how to work the ball joint in all the ways it can be adjusted.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Bonelo's X *Alignment Issue*

Beg, borrow or _____ ..... a grinder the 4 1/2" angle grinder type.

If you did the install then you know how to do it. Obviously you gotta take it apart. loosen the ball joint and move it back to the very back of the slot, and check where it looks like it will hit. Grind the lip of the bucket in a nice easy arch directly behind the ball joint, until it clears easily. Put it back together with ball joint at th back of the slot and go for another alignment.

Just make sure the knucklehead doing the alignment knows how to work the ball joint in all the ways it can be adjusted.


i will ask around to see if any of my guys have one to lend me for a day. Will try to get it done this weekend and hopefully get the alignment right.

Thank you ALL for replying


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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Bonelo's X *Re-grinding coil bucket*

So i ended up just buying a angle grinder from harbor freight. And started grinding already. I set the boot right in the middle of the slot and pull the UCA down to see where i need to grind.

This is where it sits now. When the UCA is pulled down. Is this enough space? Or i need to grind more?




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You should have enough room, with the ball joint all the way back in the slot towards the coil bucket, to move it freely until the UCA contacts the coil bucket. From the looks of it, you have a long way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Bonelo's X *Re-grinding Coil Bucket*

You should have enough room, with the ball joint all the way back in the slot towards the coil bucket, to move it freely until the UCA contacts the coil bucket. From the looks of it, you have a long way to go.


-_-" i didnt push the ball joint all the way back. i read the instruction SPC provided and it says to set it in the middle. I grind it a little more so the boot had 5mm space to the bucket. and when i put the ball joint into the knuckle it sat fine. crossing fingers that this will get the alignment straight tomorrow. if not then i will just have to push it all the way back and grind it again early in the morning when it is nice and cool. probably lost 5lbs from sweating.

 

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Mine was good in my test in the garage, but the boot was cut when I got alignment (they moved it closer). So yeah you basically want to get that joint as close as possible for your test just in case they align it that way.
 
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