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Discussion Starter #1
Had the shop look over my overland built 2007. Please
Let me know what you think about what the shop told me.
Trans oil temp code: need to pull the trans to fix, once out if I wanted a full rebuild would $3000
ABS light: rear wheel sensor code, need to replace, said we’re broke off and would need to drill and retap, new rear end if can re-thread holes
Upper ball joints are bad - see previous post with pictures , is this a titan swap? I think I will replace myself
Exhaust leak: Manifold gasket - waiting on price but I can fix my self
Code: stealing angle sensors - need to replace clock springs? Incollum. I have never opened opened up a starring colum. Advise.

Any and all advise is welcome, I bought this truck with hopes ( what I can afford) getting her up to speed would be less tha $1500. It’s looking bad at this point.
 

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couple things:

descriptions are ok but what are the code #'s.

im esp interested in the trans temp oil code. makes me wonder if the previous owner bypassed it and the trans over heated..if thats the case it shouldn't require pulling the trans. so, does it shift ok? if it shifts ok i'd start by getting some new fluid in it. speaking of trans fluid, check for SMOD.

steering angle sensor probably just needs to be reset with a consult scan tool.

upper ball joints not a big deal..

rear axle may be an issue if that sensor bung is really broken and cant be fixed. I see they did the rear diff breather mod so hopefully the axles seals are ok.

just start tackling one thing at a time.

I kinda was wondering why someone would let a rig that is so built up go.. esp at auction. perhaps it was traded in... but it seems like there are also a few reasons it wasnt resold on the lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The truck shifts fine, I do hear a very slight click/cluck on downshift at low speeds. Worries me a little. Could be trans or other driveline slack. What is a breather mod? I will get codes soon, I just found out my specialty shop is under new ownership and new mechanics. Truck is getting moved to an off road shop for a FREE assessment.I am hoping the person who did the MODS “free 2015” got married, had kids? And sold to someone who finances it and could not afford it.
 

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Yep... my brain immediately thought ; wait...a 2007 ? SMOD. You absolutely should check the radiator cap or transmission fluid - see if it looks like a Strawberry Milkshake. I crossing my fingers right now for a solid : No it doesn't.

And read through all of this one :

 

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The truck shifts fine, I do hear a very slight click/cluck on downshift at low speeds. Worries me a little. Could be trans or other driveline slack. What is a breather mod? I will get codes soon, I just found out my specialty shop is under new ownership and new mechanics. Truck is getting moved to an off road shop for a FREE assessment.I am hoping the person who did the MODS “free 2015” got married, had kids? And sold to someone who finances it and could not afford it.
I also have a 2007. And I also hear a slight knock when it downshifts. I think it might be normal. I don’t know for sure though. But mine did it before and after I put a new transmission in last weekend.

Hopefully the prognosis of yours is better than mine was. I had to replace the trans, radiator and cooler. Cost me $3300 but I didn’t have to pay for labor costs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pre 2015 not free
I also have a 2007. And I also hear a slight knock when it downshifts. I think it might be normal. I don’t know for sure though. But mine did it before and after I put a new transmission in last weekend.

Hopefully the prognosis of yours is better than mine was. I had to replace the trans, radiator and cooler. Cost me $3300 but I didn’t have to pay for labor costs.
that makes me feel better, I really don’t have $3000 to put in the truck right now. No milkshake. When Ohio warms up I will get some pictures of the radiator so we can confirm the milkshake issue has already been addressed.
 

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Pre 2015 not free

that makes me feel better, I really don’t have $3000 to put in the truck right now. No milkshake. When Ohio warms up I will get some pictures of the radiator so we can confirm the milkshake issue has already been addressed.
well its good that it doenst have the SMOD, however, that radiator looks pretty clean, is it new? could have had smod, then had the rad/ fuilds changed, but there could have been some damage done to the trans. if its shifting fine and has good fluid i probably wouldn't do anything to it just yet.
 

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I picked up my rig from the shop drove 20 miles before the engine light came back on. I just purchased a $15 scan tool that works with my phone. No transmission code just po420 catalytic bank 1 below threshold. Any way I can fool whatever sensor is through in the code. Just for a while. I will be finding an exscuse to put my rig down the highway for an hour so . Just want to confirm my trans. Code does not comeback.
F
 

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Discussion Starter #11
And I just found out my super cheap scanner does not pull "advanced codes" like ABS, transmission . The codes I really need and want to clear after repairs.
 

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To keep the P0420 away temporarily, look up "spark plug non fouler and P0420" on google. Cheap mod to keep that code away, for testing and educational purposes only of course

Firstly, have you personally checked the ATF level per owner's manual? I have the same transmission on a different vehicle and was getting high temperature readings off the A/T. Turned out I was just low on fluid and that problem went away when topped off to the proper level.

If ATF level is good:
For your transmission temperature, is it a check engine light AND P0710 code? or is it the "A/T oil" icon you are seeing?

If it is the latter CONTROL VALVE (ATM). Nissan Xterra | HYMAN BROS. NISSAN, Midlothian VA
check part 31937-90X03

Also, the wiring for the transmission valve body is a bit finicky, could be a loose or pinched wire if the valve body was removed for service for any reason, including SMOD. There are quite a few wires that could have gotten pinched if the transmission pan was removed and replaced if the wire retainers were not installed correctly after service. If you're seeing P17xx series errors, it is most likely a bad trace in the TCM, pretty easy to fix IMO. I wrote up something on how to fix that on the RE505A transmissions, and there is quite a bit of additional info about that on here as well.

The transmission pan and valve body are relatively easy to remove, but tedious with the large number of bolts, you can skip trying to punch the electrical connector down from the top of the transmission, there is actually a plug on the inside that can be removed as the plug in the FSM is actually a coupler, saves you an O ring and potentially introducing a new leak. You will lose quite a bit of ATF with the pan removed, it will keep dripping and dripping. Have 2 gallons on hand to refill after servicing valve body or sensor. I can suggest drawing an outline of the valve body and a piece of cardboard and punching the bolts through the corresponding locations to make re-install much easier, there are several different length bolts. Make sure to keep the shouldered locating bolt separate from the rest as well, this is very important.
 

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for P04X0 you need to fix it sooner than later. I dont think think its worth it to try trick the system. just replace either the cat or the primary o2 sensor.

I found both on amazon for very reasonable prices.
 
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