Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

41 - 55 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
681 Posts
Old thread, but I just went though the same exact thing! Needed to rev to go into reverse and sure enough same problem broken snap ring, bad reverse solenoid, bad reverse clutch pack. 84k 07 Frontier, bypassed at 27k with a fluid change at 50k. $2900 later, fixed...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,953 Posts
The warning signs were there on mine, I just didn't realize it. It slipped once going into reverse about 9 months before it went completely bad. It also stopped moving with no throttle in reverse. It happened so gradually that I really didn't notice. Also, the tranny fluid was dark like motor oil every time I flushed it (didn't smell burnt). When I got the diagnosis of the snap ring, the lightbulb turned on and all the pieces of the puzzle finally fit. Problem was I didn't realize I was solving a puzzle before hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Thread is a few months old but figured I'd ask a quick Q. Have the same slip in reverse and going into first gear for a while now. only happens every once in a while. Will check the levels, but you think I should take it to a shop ASAP?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
888 Posts
Thread is a few months old but figured I'd ask a quick Q. Have the same slip in reverse and going into first gear for a while now. only happens every once in a while. Will check the levels, but you think I should take it to a shop ASAP?
Since I went through this as well, I'd say yes since winter is coming and you probably don't want to be stuck not being able to move when you might need it most in the snow/ice.

Good luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,953 Posts
Definitely check the fluid levels first. If they are correct, I'd take it to a shop.

Mine looked like used motor oil and didn't smell burnt every time I flushed it. In hindsight, that should have been a dead giveaway something wasn't right. Did you notice this too @CroftonBilly?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
888 Posts
^
The two times I flushed my ATF prior to having my broken snap ring problem, the fluid looked reddish brown kind of like a light cherry cola. It wasn't thick brown or black like used motor oil. Now that was when I did my flushes.

I didn't drain fluid at the time of my problem to be able to see a major color difference. From looking at the rag I wiped my ATF dip stick, I couldn't notice a smoking gun color change. It wasn't bright red like new ATF, and it wasn't thick coffee used motor oil.

Since I figured my issue was a mechanical problem, I didn't bother with a flush prior to going to the Trans shop. The pricey Matic S was what I exclusively used prior to the rebuild (so didn't want to waste that flush money if just taking it to the shop anyway), but now I'll just use a non-Nissan branded equivalent.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,953 Posts
Gotcha, I should clarify - mine was dark brownish and still had a hint of slight red color. It was not thick like motor oil, I was speaking color only. Sounds like ours probably looked similar. That could potentially be a good indicator for others to watch out for.

I wish I had taken a picture of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Thanks for the quick replies guys. Unfortunately, my tranny started slipping in drive too, and the transmission fluid level looked fine, so I brought it into the dealer.

I'll update when they figure out what the problem is so that people in the future can refer to this for ideas. Hopefully it's just a faulty shift solenoid or something easy and cheap.
So apparently the entire transmission was shot because coolant from the radiator got into the transmission. Sorry for not updating earlier. Long story short, I had just bought the thing about a month before the transmission problem and it had been riddled with problems, literally since the day I bought it, and I was trying to take legal action against the dishonest dealer who sold it to me. (They had actually charged me an extra $1000 "reservicing fee" which was supposed to have inspected everything extremely thoroughly) In case by some long shot anyone ever runs across them, Rich Morton Mazda is pure evil. Stay away.

Anyway, apparently it is a known problem among the 07 Xterras, and if you qualify there's an extended warranty of some sort that drops the price for the transmission replacement to $2500. Hopefully this never happens to any of you, but if it does, call up your Nissan dealer and see if you qualify.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
897 Posts
So apparently the entire transmission was shot because coolant from the radiator got into the transmission. Sorry for not updating earlier. Long story short, I had just bought the thing about a month before the transmission problem and it had been riddled with problems, literally since the day I bought it, and I was trying to take legal action against the dishonest dealer who sold it to me. (They had actually charged me an extra $1000 "reservicing fee" which was supposed to have inspected everything extremely thoroughly) In case by some long shot anyone ever runs across them, Rich Morton Mazda is pure evil. Stay away.

Anyway, apparently it is a known problem among the 07 Xterras, and if you qualify there's an extended warranty of some sort that drops the price for the transmission replacement to $2500. Hopefully this never happens to any of you, but if it does, call up your Nissan dealer and see if you qualify.
Thats called SMOD (strawberry Milkshake of Death). You're far from the first person to experience it. All autos from 05-10 are likely to get it eventually.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Thats called SMOD (strawberry Milkshake of Death). You're far from the first person to experience it. All autos from 05-10 are likely to get it eventually.
[/QUOTE

I'm not sure how this works, but info for the group. I bought a new 2014 Nissan Frontier. At around 55,000 miles, well within the 60,000 mile powertrain warranty period, it started being slow going into reverse. I took it to the selling dealer, Moses Nissan in WV, they said they couldn't find any problem. They recommended to change the tranny fluid which I declined. Fast forward about a year and to 64,000 miles, truck in for service again with same issue, slow going into reverse. This time, out of warranty, they decide that transmission needs replaced. I thought then, and still do, that they should have repaired it under the 60,000 mile warranty, they refused and offered me a 90-10 split on the warranty repair. I again refused and continued to drive the truck. Now at 69,000 miles, no reverse at all! Nissan now says, they'll agree to 50-50 warranty repair, my out of pocket about $2,500! The new transmission would only have a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty. I'm thinking of trading the vehicle as is, but haven't decided yet. The Nissan transmissions with this problem were defective when they left the factory! A snap ring should never come loose! The truck is a good truck except for this issue. I'm p.....d as you can tell and would not recommend a Nissan to anyone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,641 Posts
@Slavens001 are you still on the original ATF at 69k miles?

For all but the easiest driving conditions (all highway miles in mild climates) the ATF should be done every 30k miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
@Slavens001 are you still on the original ATF at 69k miles?

For all but the easiest driving conditions (all highway miles in mild climates) the ATF should be done every 30k miles.
It was changed at about 40,000 miles. I'm not a big fan of factory maintenance schedules. They're just a mechanism to drive people to dealerships. There isn't any reason that I can see that if there isn't any debris in the pan, and the oil isn't burnt, why it needs replaced at 30,000. After I had the slow reverse engagement issue, I decided not to change it as it was already too late. This transmission has a MECHANICAL problem, (snap ring), not a maintenance problem, IMHO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,641 Posts
It was changed at about 40,000 miles. I'm not a big fan of factory maintenance schedules. They're just a mechanism to drive people to dealerships. There isn't any reason that I can see that if there isn't any debris in the pan, and the oil isn't burnt, why it needs replaced at 30,000. After I had the slow reverse engagement issue, I decided not to change it as it was already too late. This transmission has a MECHANICAL problem, (snap ring), not a maintenance problem, IMHO.
I'm sorry that your truck has an expensive mechanical problem, that's really frustrating.

I feel that someone more qualified than me came up with the factory maintenance schedule, and I am one to keep a vehicle a long time, so I tend to follow it pretty closely. Most drivers do meet at least some of the criteria for the more severe service tier, and on our Xterras we check literally all of the boxes:

● Repeated short trips of less than 5 miles in normal temperatures or less than 10 miles in freezing temperatures
● Stop-and-go traffic in hot weather or low-speed driving for long distances
● Driving in dusty conditions or on rough, muddy, or salt-spread roads
● Towing a trailer, or using a camper or car-top carrier

I agree with your implication that it's a big money maker for the dealerships because they charge high rates for labor. That's not really a factor for me because like many members here I do most all of the maintenance myself. The ATF change is a really easy DIY.

I know hindsight is 20/20, but if there was a worsening mechanical problem that you didn't think was caused by fluid, and the dealer did, wouldn't it have been good to have the fluid changed? That way when the problem continues, the fluid has been ruled out and you have at least a chance they'll help fix it? In my experience from both sides as a consumer and working for a manufacturing company, sometimes you have to play that customer service game rather than flat out refusing to work with the dealer / manufacturer.
 
41 - 55 of 55 Posts
Top