[Mmmj23]

Crutchfield

Crutchfield has a different device I had to use because of the popping sound I think Schoshe makes it works great now for me.

 

[packpride85]

Has anyone tried wiring the steering wheel control signals directly to the Atoto radio without the separate ASWC-1 control module? The Atoto unit is designed to take two analog steering wheel key inputs (0-5V) which all Xterra's seem to have in the factory harness (2 steering wheels keys + 1 ground).

 

[Lunar]

Here's everything I purchased to install my Atoto A6 Pro into my 2011 P4X with the Fosgate hu and amp/sub:

Double Din Dash Kit

Metra 70-7551 - retains amp functionality

Metra Axxess ASWC-1 - steering wheel controls

Axxess AX-NIS32BT - bypasses bluetooth controls so your steering wheel controls will work

Carlinkit Wireless Carplay Dongle - for wireless Apple Carplay

It's pretty straight forward once you get all that. Let me know if you have questions.

I have a 2012 Frontier SL with the RF head unit and amp. I just picked up the Atoto S8 Premium and I'm wondering if this part combination would work for me as well. Did you need a additional adapter for the radio antenna?

 

[Visigoth]

I can’t say for sure but ask Crutchfield, they know their shit. My guess is you need at least the adapters I used but I didn’t need one for the antenna.

Also PackPride I did try to connect the steering wheel controls directly and it didn’t work. I do have the Axess working now at least for volume up and down, pause, and next. Not all buttons are recognized.

Further update: I fixed the “Thump!” Well, I bought the piece that fixed the Thump. Someone somewhere mentioned the PAC SNI-1 from crutchfield so I bought two and voila!
So my S8 and my 05 Xterra are now in as good a place as I think I can get. I do love the S8. I just hate installing car stereos.

 

[MtnMike]

Glad it worked! I did the same and it got rid of the thump but have a pretty bad humming sound. Any idea on what might be causing this?

 

[Liriodendron]

Nice right up and thanks to all for sharing their experiences with this. I’m thinking about upgrading also, my initial question is about sound quality,

I’m assuming sound quality didn’t change or get worse with this head unit did it? I read comments in the review section that claimed sound quality was poor. What are your experiences with sound quality??

 

[packpride85]

Nice right up and thanks to all for sharing their experiences with this. I’m thinking about upgrading also, my initial question is about sound quality,

I’m assuming sound quality didn’t change or get worse with this head unit did it? I read comments in the review section that claimed sound quality was poor. What are your experiences with sound quality??

If set up correctly should sound just as good if not better. Aftermarket units tend to have more detailed sound options to tweak vs oem.

I think most of the sound quality issues are people using either the pre amp outputs to the rf amp or line outs but not using a line output converter. The rf amp is designed to take a specific voltage that is NOT equal to standard pre amp outputs or direct line out from the head unit. Like output converter must be used to match rf amps expected gain.

 

[Liriodendron]

If set up correctly should sound just as good if not better. Aftermarket units tend to have more detailed sound options to tweak vs oem.

I think most of the sound quality issues are people using either the pre amp outputs to the rf amp or line outs but not using a line output converter. The rf amp is designed to take a specific voltage that is NOT equal to standard pre amp outputs or direct line out from the head unit. Like output converter must be used to match rf amps expected gain.

Good to know, I appreciate your feedback!

 

[midd]

or just swap out the amp with an aftermarket. I bought this one from amazon amp. It does the job and fits under the seat. Won't rattle your windows but you'll know its there. You'll need a wiring kit.

 

[Chinook1]

Reviving this thread for a little help with install of an Atoto F7 XE. I have somehow convinced myself that some forum threads and you tube vids has given me the knowledge to install a stereo, even though I've never done anything like this.

I think I have purchased basically all the wiring harnesses IN THE WORLD for this project based on this and other threads. I have a 2012 P4X with non-nav RF system. I am trying to "simply" replace the head unit and retain the RF woofer and SWCs.

I purchased both the Metra 70-7552 (w/ swc) AND the Metra 70-7553 (w/ rca connectors for the speakers). To retain SWC, I have the BT bypass dongle thingy, and to avoid the popping I have a 4 channel ground loop whatchamacalit.

I thought the 7552 and 7553 would somehow work together, but obviously they don't, and now I have the age-old problem of too many female ends (99 problems...?). Sorry.

Anyway. Since I have these stupid things, can anyone help me understand how to merge the two Metras to make one usable harness? Would it be better to use the 7553 and harvest/ splice in the swc wiring from the 7552, or vice versa (harvest the RCA wiring from the 7553)? Do I actually use both 20 pin plugs somehow? If so which harness wires go to the Atoto harness? Should I just take all of this to an installer? I can change a motorcycle clutch out, but I feel over my head with this...

While I'm at it, on this RF sub being over-driven by the 4 ohm outputs, would the ground loop isolators I got do anything to combat this issue, or do I need to get YET ANOTHER device to cram behind this stereo? Would I use the Scosche SLC4 instead of the ground loop isolators?


View attachment 144851
View attachment 144852

 

[midd]

I originally bought the 7553 and the ground loop isolators as well when I did mine. I know what you mean about shoving stuff behind the stereo. But someone here told me to go with the speaker lines and get the 7552. I originally ended up replacing the factory sub with one from Amazon for under $100. See my above post with the link. YOu can send the 7553 back and put the money towards the sub. And you'll not have all that clutter in your dash. I still have the isolators in my garage. lol

 

[Chinook1]

I originally bought the 7553 and the ground loop isolators as well when I did mine. I know what you mean about shoving stuff behind the stereo. But someone here told me to go with the speaker lines and get the 7552. I originally ended up replacing the factory sub with one from Amazon for under $100. See my above post with the link. YOu can send the 7553 back and put the money towards the sub. And you'll not have all that clutter in your dash. I still have the isolators in my garage. lol

Did you not use it because it didn't work? I'm starting to think I can have either the SWC or the RF sub, but not both in a pre-made harness...