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Hello, frontier here that has an idea...
I was looking to put an atlas 4sp in my truck in the future and was throwing ideas up in the air about what I could do...
I shot the idea at Steve @ RR and it has crossed his mind too. Throwing ideas at each other about what to do.
To cut to the chase...
Steve has done a little research and threw the idea at NWF to build us an adapter...

It would involve splitting our current t-case in half ditching the weak chain portion.

"Some people do this with the old tx10 witch brought this idea about I guess"

Going off that to an adapter that would allow us I assume to put either or atlas 2 or 4sp combined with our current hi low range feature of our original t-case allowing us to still maintain using our factory electronic 4wd switch to switch between our hi and low function of the "doubler" doesn't control 4wd. That is obviously done using the atlas manual controls.this would also fix the atlas glitch going from 4lo to 2hi witch freaks out the computer a little.

This is just throwing around an idea so no set price has been even set yet. Some where possibly in the neighborhood of 950-1100$ "guessing" just for the adapter. And a minimum of at least 10 ppl to order to get things to start rolling.


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The 4Lo to 2WD glitch is fixed easily enough by simply taking the front stick and shifting into 4HI for a second. After that it is all happy. Not really that big of a deal.

So how long will this stack of boxes add up to? Just wondering how steep the rear driveshaft angle is going to have to be?

Most of the chain drive transfer cases I know of use an oil pump on the output shaft to pump oil through all the gears. Without getting into one of these I can only assume that the Nissan transfer case will be like the others. After you ditch the chain drive and just keep the reduction planetary set, how will you be lubing it. For that matter, ever heard of a case where someone has broke a chain? The only chain issues I can remember were from full time 4WD trucks with 100k on them (full size stuff from the 70's). I have seen a lot more destroyed gears in all gear transfer cases then I have seen bad chains.

Deleting the rear half of the transfer case also makes for keeping all the factory electronics an interesting challenge. That shift motor is on the back of the transfer case, the part you are trying to get rid of. I believe there is a position switch or two on that side of the transfer case as well.

Just curious how you plan to get around this stuff? I can think of ways around most all this stuff, but at that point it isn't simple nor cheap anymore. I really don't see how it can be done for the price point you have chosen. It will be interesting to see this get past the initial dream stage.
 

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so we'd keep the same tcase controls and add a reducer between the trans and tcase? if the adapter is a grand, whats the doubler cost?

ETA: might be cheaper to try and get different low range gears instead of adding another box and all of the associated complexities that comes with. the doubler sounds like it'd require custom front and rear replacement driveshafts, and doesn't the exhaust crossover behind the tcase? that might interfere as well.
 

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I agree with Strizzo. it would likely be easier to ghet lower set in our existing cases, or stick with the current 2sp atlas stuff.

But either way, a nice 4.7-5.5 low range is the bee's knee's! i miss having a geared Sami. would love to get this one to match the gears that had!
 

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Steve and I talked about this yesterday. I'm with Early2010 in that this isn't going to be cheap, but as a 6spd guy, being able to get down to 8:1 or lower would be great. Things I see issues to address:
-electronics. If the switch motor and or sensors are in the back, that's a problem.
-same with the oil pump. Sounds like something to address
-fitment - one thing we discussed is that the case can be clocked all around. However, what about the exhaust and all?
-i believe new driveshafts front and rear are warranted. The rear due to the change in length. The front due to strength issues. That much torque could do Very Bad Things.
-i'd also say new half shafts. Terry (SoCalX) can speak to weakness there when they're tested.
-i wouldn't do this without the air locker in the front, either. Same as the driveshafts and the added torque.

One thing we talked about with this would also be designing a weak link on purpose. Right now the weak link is the diff(due to wheel speed differential and sudden torque shocks). Upgrade to the ARB and that helps to mitigate that. Now the problem is the half shafts - which are a pain to replace. My suggestion is to make the weak point the u-joint in the drive shaft. Should be relatively inexpensive to replace, as well as reasonably quick.

Makes me think the total cost here is around $5k or more. However, that's only about $1k more than I'd guess for swapping the tcase for an Atlas - and this gives one 1:1, 2:1, 4:1, or 8:1. (Or 5:1 and 10:1 or more, depending on the gearing).
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Ron a lot of times you find lower tcase gear will reduce stress on weak parts. If you're crawling and not going crazy with the loud pedal you won't bounce over obstacles nearly as much. I've been kicking around the atlas idea for awhile but this could be even better depending on how it's constructed.

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Since you're talking to NWF, get them to machine an adapter so we can run the 4spd ATLAS or some sort of adapter so we can run the 2spd with the NWF Black Box.

In the ballpark of the same cost and damn near indestructible. We'd have to get new driveshafts whether we ran the 2spd ATLAS, a doubler, or anything other than the stock T-case so that doesn't matter.
 

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I would think a crawl box would be the most simple. 1:1 and whatever reduction you want going into the T case from the transmission. Don't even mess with the T case. Still requires new driveline. I have done 0 research for the Xterra so I don't even know if it's possible but I ran a Marlin Crawler in my old Yota.


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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Sorry, the app has not been working for me the past couple days,
To adress some questions...
I don't want to be limited to picking one gear ratio for low range so I was kicking the idea around. Since they don't make or won't make a 4sp bolt directly to our trannies my idea was adapt it some how. Personally think a doubler combined with a 4sp is a little much/excessive gearing.
Originally Steve gave me an idea of taking a tx10 and having a shaft made for it. Now he had this idea. And NWF was gonna kick it around to see about making this possible. I have no idea how they were gonna make it work. I was think a lot along the same lines as y'all with the electronics. Idk about the oil issue. I'm not the mechanical engineer in this picture. But in the past they split the cases on the tx10 and that seems to work without issues?

As for the half shafts cv shafts. Steve is on that path with looking into getting Titan rcv shafts made for us.
Idk about y'all but I'm using my m205 arb locker. But this project might be really more for SAS guys/gals or fully built IFS I guess. Yes it isn't cheap I know. My buddies already call it a BOAT-bust out another thousand. Lmao but it is interesting.

I like the idea of the crawler box/black box.
Since this idea involves a doubler compacted into the equation anyways.

Think I may have some confused. I was calling the original t-case a doubler if we ditched the chain portion. It would be tranny-gearbox-adapter plate- atlas.

As for pinion angles. Idk not the engineer here again. Haven't taken any measurements.

As for exhaust... To get this far IE all the suspension work, mods, differential, 5k or so in transfer cases adapters, custom axles, custom drive shaft front and rear... I'm pretty sure the exhaust could be reworked around it for a couple hundred bucks huh? Run open headers :) lol


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You know, if you did it properly and had calm seas, you could go amphibious and literally circumnavigate the globe. That'd be money, eh?
 

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or you could do something like this to the drive shafts to protect everything else

http://www.fourwheeler.com/project-vehicles/129-0609-2004-nissan-titan-driveshaft/
That's a great idea and I'd certainly incorporate that. It's even better than my idea as having a few trail spares (while a bit more expensive) makes for an easy repair. In the AF we had similar style bolts (hi-shears) that we'd use in certain applications for much the same reason.

Ron a lot of times you find lower tcase gear will reduce stress on weak parts. If you're crawling and not going crazy with the loud pedal you won't bounce over obstacles nearly as much. I've been kicking around the atlas idea for awhile but this could be even better depending on how it's constructed.

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While I agree in theory, the fact is that the torque does get multiplied quite nicely. As noted, Terry has broken a few. That being said, I do try to drive "softly" when possible. Skinny pedal = broken things and dollar signs. Same with mud, which I avoid.

This idea really does have my attention. Now that I'm getting much closer to ExPo style, having this could really help. It's not like the stuff I'm putting on is making the X weight any less. RTT, gear storage, spare parts, tools, camp gear, and so forth. Plus, one of my next projects is to set up 2 more batteries, and isolator, inverter, and a fridge. I'll probably get around to trying to build a patrol box later this summer to better hold the cooking and eating gear. At some point, this is going to lead to upgrading to an even stiffer set of Alcans and new rear shocks. Plus, my exhaust is about to need replacement.

For us six-speed types, this could be a great idea. I'd even be willing to (assuming these folks where anywhere near me) let them crawl around my X looking for ideas and issues.
 
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