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2008 Xterra-Offroad
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Update as of Feb 7;

A new, re-manufactured engine, was just installed in the X!
I picked it up this last weekend, and have had a blast driving it again.
The old engine had numbers written on it in blue marker. The mechanic said that's common for salvage engines. Interesting that none of the service records indicate a new engine. 3 of 6 pistons were seized, so oil had been gushing out more than I had initially realized.
The cause of the oil leak was the rear main seal coming loose. It was slightly dry rotted, and was easily pulled off with one finger. Hopefully the guy who worked on the car first lives up to his word, and gives me his discounts on parts.

Can't wait to fix all the little 馃捀QUIRKS馃捀 in the coming months, and take another shot at over landing.
Code:
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Update as of Jan 11;
Got the car fixed, and managed to drive it from Carlsbad NM all the way to Hammond LA. After a few hours of driving we noticed that it was leaking oil...the Exxon Valdez would blush if she saw. 2.5 - 3 quarts were added every 100 miles. I attempted to seal the leak (occurring at the upper oil pan), to no avail. I should have stopped immediately and had the issue FIXED.

The low oil pressure light came on along the interstate, so we stopped the car to add oil. It wouldn't start again. The engine, who served 163,600 faithful miles, seized up.
[I]Moment of silence[/I].
Most likely a new engine will be thrown in for cost and time sake, as I await to drive the X again.
~~~~~
Hey all;

The wife and I started on a trip this last week through the "Enchanted Rockies" trail, with our 2008 Xterra Off-road. Twice we broke down, and twice we fixed the issue and hit the road.

Last week Friday the oil pump went out in the middle of the Guadalupe Mountains (Lincoln National Forest, New Mexico). We've been with a ranch family since, and although we have the part, the dreaded oil pan is stuck...like step sister+red lock Tite STUCK.

If anyone can offer anything ie; advice, tech tips, good local mechanics, or anything else would be greatly appreciated.

Because of my job (military) my "bosses" are all over me and want me back asap 馃槓馃檮 Absolutely anything would help.

Thanks ya'll
 

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sheesh man sorry to hear about all the issue with the X!

so have you got all the oil pan bolts out but the pan itself wont come loose?

are you sure its the oil pump and not the oil pressure sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sheesh man sorry to hear about all the issue with the X!

so have you got all the oil pan bolts out but the pan itself wont come loose?

are you sure its the oil pump and not the oil pressure sensor?
Hey Mtnbound,

All the bolts are off, but the pan won't budge. I've looked at a schematic of the upper oil pan, and checked multiple times.

Almost positive it's the pump; on startup the engine had a horrible knock and sounded like a tractor. Just replaced the oil pump in my '08 Silverado after I had low pressure and a lifter tick. The X has an angry gremlin and 0 oil pressure.
 

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2014 Metallic Blue X
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So where at in NM are you? The Lincoln National forest runs from the Carlsbad Caverns all the way north to Carrizozo. Maybe a deadblow and a block of wood across the front of the pan? You can't find a spot to gently get a pry tool in and start getting the pan separated from the block?
 
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Hey Mtnbound,

All the bolts are off, but the pan won't budge. I've looked at a schematic of the upper oil pan, and checked multiple times.

Almost positive it's the pump; on startup the engine had a horrible knock and sounded like a tractor. Just replaced the oil pump in my '08 Silverado after I had low pressure and a lifter tick. The X has an angry gremlin and 0 oil pressure.

hmm what were the first two issues that you had and fixed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So where at in NM are you? The Lincoln National forest runs from the Carlsbad Caverns all the way north to Carrizozo. Maybe a deadblow and a block of wood across the front of the pan? You can't find a spot to gently get a pry tool in and start getting the pan separated from the block?
About an hour 45 from Artesia, NM. We're in Ortero county.

The pry bar method isn't working, and a dead blow won't make it budge. I've heard this is common, and people sometimes warp the pan during removal?
 

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2014 Metallic Blue X
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Just a quick google search says the best thing to use is a thin putty knife to cut through the rtv holding the pan on. I've had good luck with the Nissan dealership in Roswell if you are close enough to get there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hmm what were the first two issues that you had and fixed?
Going down the road at 65mph when the engine fan snapped from the pulley bracket. Replaced the bracket, then had the belt tensioner go out (sounded like dying cats!). The X ran like a champ for a day afterwards, untill I shut it off to admire the view and turned it back on. Pressure was at 0, oil pressure light was on, and there was a very prominent knock with a rough idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just a quick google search says the best thing to use is a thin putty knife to cut through the rtv holding the pan on. I've had good luck with the Nissan dealership in Roswell if you are close enough to get there.
Tried the razor trick, but didn't seem to do it. Mostly there's no space for your hand.

Thank you for the recommendation, I just contacted a guy in Carlsbad who seems like the real deal. Unfortunately a tow to Roswell might force me to take post on the nearest street corner...
 

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Was it a shop in Carlsbad? If so which one if you don't mind me asking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Was it a shop in Carlsbad? If so which one if you don't mind me asking.
Yes, he's located in Carlsbad. The name is just listed as "The Mechanic" with a phone # of;
+1 575-706-5578

$100 labor hour, with 7 estimated hours (since I've taken everything but the upper pan off). He said he called and spoke with the dealership in regards to time for the job, which they estimated 15 hours @ $150 an hour.

Thoughts?
 

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I'm not familiar with that mechanic and I can't find anything for him on the local FB pages. I found one for a mechanic from Hobbs and he has decent reviews, but thats another hour East of here so I'm not sure if its the same one or not. Labor sounds about right for our area cost wise though. The only other thing about our area to be aware of is that hotel costs are high due to them expecting everyone to have oilfield money.
 

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Doesn't the oil pump come out of the front of the engine? Its at the bottom with the timing chains, or do I have that wrong?

View attachment 141512

good point, I thought about this earlier but wanted to adress his specific concern.
im not sure you can change the oil pump from the pan. but maybe.

anyways, Im not so sure that changing the oil pump is going to "fix it" it may restore oil pressure, but i doubt it will make the knock go away.

OP, ais the SES light on, if so have you scanned the codes? im wondering about cam/ crank pos sensors.

did it over heat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Doesn't the oil pump come out of the front of the engine? Its at the bottom with the timing chains, or do I have that wrong?

View attachment 141512
You would be correct however, the deign of the oil pump makes it so that the pickup ports and a nub of metal make contact with the lip of the oil pan. It's only 1/2 in. or so. Luckily the pan doesn't need to be removed entirely (requiring steering and did removal), it only needs to be nudged down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
good point, I thought about this earlier but wanted to adress his specific concern.
im not sure you can change the oil pump from the pan. but maybe.

anyways, Im not so sure that changing the oil pump is going to "fix it" it may restore oil pressure, but i doubt it will make the knock go away.

OP, ais the SES light on, if so have you scanned the codes? im wondering about cam/ crank pos sensors.

did it over heat?
In regards to the oil pan and pump, I made a response above. Simply the design of the pump... unfortunately.

The SES has been on since we purchased the car o_O
There were codes for a misfire and an o2 sensor. Both issues I addressed, but didn't have the time to reset the ECU. I'd be very surprised if it was a cam or crank sensor. The knock and oil light began at the same time. It sounded like a rod knock, likely from a lack in oil (so we'll see).

As for overheating, I didn't let the car run more than a minute once the knock began, so I didn't find out.
 

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Do you have a repair manual? I have a hard copy with me. If it'll help, I'll send you pics of whatever pages you want.
From what I'm seeing there's a difference between the lower steel pan and the upper aluminum pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Do you have a repair manual? I have a hard copy with me. If it'll help, I'll send you pics of whatever pages you want.
From what I'm seeing there's a difference between the lower steel pan and the upper aluminum pan.
Radar (from M.A.S.H?) ;

There is a separation in main oil pan and the block one. Just so happened that a plug will block the view of a single nut holding in the upper pan.

Would you be able to send a pic of the brake booster vacuum hose, and where the book says to connect it?
 
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