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Discussion Starter #1
didn't find an answer through my search, so maybe someone can be kind enough to answer this question. I am going to be getting an M226. Does the ARB locker come with new gears, or do I still need to find an off road model R180 to get the 3.36 gear ratio?
 

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So to follow this question since Im an S model with the C200 rear diff(ARB Locker installed in rear diff), can I just install ARB into my R180 and Im good to go or will the gears be wrong? Im assuming Im ok with the gears since I would still have same rear diff and same front diff just adding Lockers.
 

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Yep, would be fine with the gears you have, just make sure you get the correct R180 locker, since there are 2 versions (3.54 and below and 3.69 and above).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So, opinion time. Is it better to go with an M226 and find a matched front diff, or just lock the C200 I currently have? My end goal is a rear locker, and not a TS. Or would it make more sense financially at this point to just TS and go for an M205 up front?
 

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Guys...my C200K was equipped with 3.13 gears stock on my 2005 S model.

When I installed my locker, I installed 3.36 Frontier gears in the rear and swapped in an OR model R180 with 3.36 gears to match.
 

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So, opinion time. Is it better to go with an M226 and find a matched front diff, or just lock the C200 I currently have? My end goal is a rear locker, and not a TS. Or would it make more sense financially at this point to just TS and go for an M205 up front?
I would not lock a stock S model diff with 3.13 gears...finding a 3.36 gear set and locking the rear with ARB or swapping in the M226 (which comes with 3.36) and then swapping in a 3.36 geared R180 for the front, and then locking that.
 

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I would not lock a stock S model diff with 3.13 gears...finding a 3.36 gear set and locking the rear with ARB or swapping in the M226 (which comes with 3.36) and then swapping in a 3.36 geared R180 for the front, and then locking that.
Why would you not lock the C200 diff? Not trying to start an argument or anything at all, just curious to opinion or facts behind the non recomendation? I have an ARB locker in mine.

So far so good, albeit the ARB has only been in for 5 months and has only been to Moab and 3 wheeling trips since installed.
 

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I don't know of anything wrong with the C200 that would make me avoid a locker.
As for what ratio to run, depends on what your plans are for it. Taller tires like more gear. There is a reason the taller tired off-road models get more gear then the shorter tire models. In the end they have nearly the same engine speed for vehicle speed.
 

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Why would you not lock the C200 diff? Not trying to start an argument or anything at all, just curious to opinion or facts behind the non recomendation? I have an ARB locker in mine.

So far so good, albeit the ARB has only been in for 5 months and has only been to Moab and 3 wheeling trips since installed.
Well, I guess that's true.

I guess I was going on the assumption that while you had the diff apart for the locker install you would re-gear given the opportunity to grab the 3.36's.

My bad.

If your locked and happy with the 3.13's...more power to ya'! :thumbup:
 

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So, opinion time. Is it better to go with an M226 and find a matched front diff, or just lock the C200 I currently have? My end goal is a rear locker, and not a TS. Or would it make more sense financially at this point to just TS and go for an M205 up front?
You can slap a pair of lockers in and keep all your current diffs and gearing.

This is weired. A topic about locking the R180, that touches on an M205..... that hasn't gotten out of hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Gear ratio question then, just out of curiosity. Since taller tires like more gears, if one were to go with 4.10's, and still run 33" tires, or 31" for that matter, would fuel efficiency improve? Now, if I ever do this, and have 4.10's, I will negate any potential gas saving by running 35" tires, but still want to know the answer. I have yet to work on anything relating to the engine or driveline of my truck, so sorry if this seems like a stupid question.
 

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When you run a bigger tire they spin slower than the stock tires and puts the entire vehicle out of it's power band. The is the reason for doing a regear to allow the powerband to fall back into the normal range and allow you to not spin the engine at a higher RPM when traveling at highway speeds. I don't think that you will get better economy staying on factory tires and doing a regear.
 

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Well, it all depends, right? The 33" diameter tires are ~7% larger than stock ... so with stock gears, your engine will be spinning ~7% slower (rpm) for the same road speed as with stock tires. This is why a 3.36:1 gear is great for guys with non-OR/Pro-4X auto trans to get back to a 'stock-ish' feel. The 3.36:1 gears are roughly the same 7% difference as the 33" tires ... just in the other direction.

In theory: taking your tires larger, or gears taller (lower numerically) than stock should bump up your economy ... but (and it's a big but), that's only if you hold everything else constant. The larger tires generally have a higher rotational inertia, so they take more effort to get rolling and keep rolling ... which could negate any gains you were hoping to see (this was the case for me, when I went from stock to 255x85r16 Toyos).

The other thing you'd see (and this is what Mr. Godfather was referencing): is that since you've effectively changed the engine rpms for a given straight-line speed and trans gear combo, the vehicle's available power will not 'feel' the same as it did prior. The reverse would be true by moving either tire size or gearing the other way, too ...

In your (Paulkucz) example, of going from an S (assuming AT) with 3.13:1 stock gears and 31" stock tires to 4.10:1 gears and 33" tires; you should see ~7% 'taller' gearing effect from the tires and ~30% 'deeper' gearing effect from the gears ... the net will be ~23% 'deeper' than stock. So the truck will 'feel' quite a bit more peppy off the line, run at a higher rpm for a given straight-line speed/trans gear, and probably be down on economy ... by comparison to stock. For 35" tires, coming from a 3.13:1 ratio, the MT gears (3.54:1) should get you pretty darn close to a stock 'feel'.

Clear as mud? :eek:ccasion5:
 
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You can slap a pair of lockers in and keep all your current diffs and gearing.

This is weired. A topic about locking the R180, that touches on an M205..... that hasn't gotten out of hand.
Danny...what gears are you running? 3.13's or 3.36's?
 

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I know this is an old thread but good info here (and everyone always wants you to search first so, ya... this is what you get, hahaha).

My question is, Toro said he's got 3.69 up front and 3.73 in the rear... I thought they had to match?

I've got stock gears in my '14 S, and will eventually be adding arb lockers, so trying to get the getting stuff all figured out. Thanks!
 

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I know this is an old thread but good info here (and everyone always wants you to search first so, ya... this is what you get, hahaha).

My question is, Toro said he's got 3.69 up front and 3.73 in the rear... I thought they had to match?

I've got stock gears in my '14 S, and will eventually be adding arb lockers, so trying to get the getting stuff all figured out. Thanks!
I have the feeling he was trolling. They need to match.
 
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