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I have almost two months on mine. This is my first suspension lift and I replaced my stock suspension as it had over 100k miles on it. I’ve enjoyed the performance increase that I’ve seen over the old stock. It definitely still rides like a truck, but I’m currently at around mile 600 of a 1000 mile trip up to Acadia and it’s handling everything.


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I have about a week on my kit and it’s been decent so far, back and forth to work on the highways. It still rides like a truck no doubt. Not too sure my wife will be happy lol. She expected a smooth ride for the time and money I put into it haha. I’m sure it’ll shine off pavement though.

but one issue I’m having is creaking from the leaf packs on the right side. I got new Nissan top shackle bushings and used the lower rubbers that came with the kit, greased them up before install. double checked torque, everything looks good.
I just assumed because they were new they’d need time to settle in and stop talking so much. Guess I don’t care too much overall, just wondering if it’s something I did or can fix somehow.
My biggest complaint is they seem to " top out" on National Forest roads going from paved roads to gravel, you can feel that harsh rebound and topping out because of the lack of down travel. The 5100's don't seem to soak up or dampen pot holes on roads or city streets well, particularly anything above 20 MPH. At slower speeds offroading they do well with this kit, the digressive valving works well in that respect. I think the 2" lift spring increases the preload on the shocks a bit too much for the 5100's too handle. Keep in mind they're designed for the stock spring OEM Nissan spring.

The rear is fine with the 3 leaf AAL pack. No complaints about that.
 

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My biggest complaint is they seem to " top out" on National Forest roads going from paved roads to gravel, you can feel that harsh rebound and topping out because of the lack of down travel. The 5100's don't seem to soak up or dampen pot holes on roads or city streets well, particularly anything above 20 MPH. At slower speeds offroading they do well with this kit, the digressive valving works well in that respect. I think the 2" lift spring increases the preload on the shocks a bit too much for the 5100's too handle. Keep in mind they're designed for the stock spring OEM Nissan spring.

The rear is fine with the 3 leaf AAL pack. No complaints about that.
Yea that is a bummer. They do seem a bit harsh in that way. Didn’t know how to describe it, but I think you hit it on the head there. I was originally going to go with the OME kit but decided on the made in USA /ADO stuff and I’m wondering if I would’ve liked the OME stuff more so. I’ll have to get a trip on this set up though And see what I really think about it.
 

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Yea that is a bummer. They do seem a bit harsh in that way. Didn’t know how to describe it, but I think you hit it on the head there. I was originally going to go with the OME kit but decided on the made in USA /ADO stuff and I’m wondering if I would’ve liked the OME stuff more so. I’ll have to get a trip on this set up though And see what I really think about it.
The OME is a twin tube design, so it'll soak up more bumps, ruts. The 5100 differs in design because of the " digressive valving" at lower speed the valving isn't as stiff. At higher speed speeds the oil flow increases the pressure on the valving making your ride stiffer.

I've been told the solution is to use a spacer with the 5100s to fix the spring rate issue we have with the taller springs. 1) is to set the 5100s at the 1" mark and use a spacer. 2) find another strut. I've already there with option 1. Which why I thought the lift springs would help. Now I'm looking at other solutions for the front.
 

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The OME is a twin tube design, so it'll soak up more bumps, ruts. The 5100 differs in design because of the " digressive valving" at lower speed the valving isn't as stiff. At higher speed speeds the oil flow increases the pressure on the valving making your ride stiffer.

I've been told the solution is to use a spacer with the 5100s to fix the spring rate issue we have with the taller springs. 1) is to set the 5100s at the 1" mark and use a spacer. 2) find another strut. I've already there with option 1. Which why I thought the lift springs would help. Now I'm looking at other solutions for the front.
@AlldogsOffroad - Any input on this issue?

Pete
 

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The OME is a twin tube design, so it'll soak up more bumps, ruts. The 5100 differs in design because of the " digressive valving" at lower speed the valving isn't as stiff. At higher speed speeds the oil flow increases the pressure on the valving making your ride stiffer.

I've been told the solution is to use a spacer with the 5100s to fix the spring rate issue we have with the taller springs. 1) is to set the 5100s at the 1" mark and use a spacer. 2) find another strut. I've already there with option 1. Which why I thought the lift springs would help. Now I'm looking at other solutions for the front.
Interesting. So it does sound like a good design for slower speed/off-road driving.
Guess I’ll have to take the good with the bad on these Struts until I find different ones I can swap the springs to. Which sucks since I just installed them hah. Guess that’s what happens when you’re on a budget. Something has to be sacrificed.
 

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I use a 1/4" spacer with my 5100's in order to reduce the preload and set the struts to a lower setting. Helped tremendously with stock coils. It was a suggestion from Greg at PRG, who installed them for me while on my way from NorCal to Moab in 2017.

Bilstein 5100's have a reputation for being harsh on washboard and "small moments." It isn't just when mounted on Xterras. Unfortunately there is really nothing any better at a similar price point. More $$$ will give you other options.
 

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@AlldogsOffroad - Any input on this issue?

Pete
With the way that Nissan has set up their front end, a shock absorber manufacturer only has so much length they can work with to produce adequate dampening. This is why Nissan Xterra / Frontier front 5100's will max out at 2" of lift, vs a Toyota example which can push 2.7", depending on application. Toyota 5100's have extended lengths which push the 22" mark and have more available room to allow for adequate rebound dampening at greater lift. Toyota applications are also generally not limited by the unique upper control arm position that Nissan uses.

The front end in an Xterra or Frontier can only really tolerate about 15.5" of extended length in a front shock before running into coil bucket contact clearance issues with factory control arms. This limits the height a 5100 can produce and is why we only make lift coils for Nissan platforms which top out at 2". With adequate weight on the vehicle, a shock with our lift coil installed will have the piston located low enough in the shock body to provide for appropriate rebound dampening. For instance, you wouldn't want to run our heavy coil on a vehicle without steel bumper, winch, skids, and so on - this would cause shock top out. In an ideal situation a longer shock body and shaft length would be used to provide for greater rebound dampening but we orient our kitting within the limitations of OE control arms for users on a budget.

Bilstein shocks are valved digressively, as previously noted. This makes for a shock absorber which is ideal for use on daily / highway driving and is what Bilstein generally develops for. The characteristics being described as the result of driving over pot holes and road imperfections, et al, are partially specific to valving and partially specific to high psi nitrogen charge that Bilstein uses in their dampeners to resist aeration / cavitation at extreme heat. They aren't as forgiving on the compression side. Building a dampener is an exercise in compromise; it's very challenging / complex / expensive to produce a dampener which excels in a broad range of areas / does "everything" right. We currently build our kitting around 5100's because they're inexpensive, they're readily available, and they dampen well for the majority of users using them.

A twin tube shock absorber in a Nissan application suffers similar limitations to the 5100. You can only squeeze so much lift out of the limited extended length the OE Nissan control arms will allow for. If you don't run the appropriate spring for the weight of the vehicle, it would be just as apt to top out. Twin tubes do offer the benefit of different road feel, or more forgiving dampening on compression over road imperfection, but at the trade off of not being able to tolerate heat as well as a monotube like the 5100 does.

We've been working on a budget-friendly shock project which is less oriented toward highway performance / on-road feel like the 5100's are and more toward offroad driving performance. This will be at a trade-off. The shocks we're working on will feel better on compression events and low to mid speed offroading, but will do so at the compromise of more body roll and a less planted highway feel than 5100's offer. We'll hopefully be able to offer them in OE length and an extended travel length (which would require aftermarket UCAs) and should have more info in the coming months.

This conversation is focused on kitting at an approximate $900-$1,400 budget. There are other options out there such as Radflo but the addition of custom coilovers into the conversation pushes kitting budgets past $2,000 and into a different tier.
 

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130041

Got the ADO 5100/BROverland kit installed. As I mentioned before I was happy with the shocks on the truck but they were severely rusted out. Buying used I have no idea if they were OEM or aftermarket. The ride now doesn’t feel terribly different so my guess is the original shocks had been replaced; hard to imagine them lasting 140,000 miles!

The ride is firm on our dirt roads but I prefer that. When we test drove a 4Runner it wallowed so badly my wife got carsick, so firm is nice. It skitters on washboard the same as what they replaced, but at the non-frantic speeds I drive it soaked up the big jolts and whoop-de-doos just fine.

I was surprised by the height difference front to rear. The front went from 33 3/8 to 35, a gain of 1 5/8 inch. The rear went from 34 1/4 to 37, a gain of 2 3/4 inches. I was expecting a closer match, but it will probably be close once the rig is loaded for a trip

Pete
 

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View attachment 130041
Got the ADO 5100/BROverland kit installed. As I mentioned before I was happy with the shocks on the truck but they were severely rusted out. Buying used I have no idea if they were OEM or aftermarket. The ride now doesn’t feel terribly different so my guess is the original shocks had been replaced; hard to imagine them lasting 140,000 miles!

The ride is firm on our dirt roads but I prefer that. When we test drove a 4Runner it wallowed so badly my wife got carsick, so firm is nice. It skitters on washboard the same as what they replaced, but at the non-frantic speeds I drive it soaked up the big jolts and whoop-de-doos just fine.

I was surprised by the height difference front to rear. The front went from 33 3/8 to 35, a gain of 1 5/8 inch. The rear went from 34 1/4 to 37, a gain of 2 3/4 inches. I was expecting a closer match, but it will probably be close once the rig is loaded for a trip

Pete
Nice,
I just did mine too but haven’t been off pavement yet. Busy with work and school.
good report though. I’ve felt the same response on my 40 mile commute daily across varied paved surfaces.
My suspension was 140k miles too. But it was so soft. Buck and dived. Lurched. Etc.

Hoping this kit was the right decision vs the OME kit. I went with USA stuff over Aussie and I hope I liken it long term
 

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I guess I go back to budget vs luxury.
I am on a budget and put this swap off for 3 years.
like ADO said, this is a $1500 kit roughly. There’s only so much you can do. It’s a lot to me but not a lot relatively to the off-roading community as a whole
 

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Hoping this kit was the right decision vs the OME kit. I went with USA stuff over Aussie and I hope I liken it long term
It’s fall foliage back here in Vermont so I’ve been wandering the back roads (only one is paved). So far the only thing that gives it trouble are sections of washboard that make the truck do the jitterbug. On serious bumps and ruts the kit did admirably, and ascending a heavily rutted rain damaged steep ascent in 4LO was child’s play

we don’t have freeways back here but on our highways and secondary roads paved and dirt the truck handle well. Very happy with my purchase
 

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My shackle bushings creak like crazy too. I shoot them with some WD40 lithium grease spray a few times a week. That keeps the creaking at bay.

I'd like to find some bolts with zerk fittings for the through bolts and tap a zerk in the shackle barrel to make my own greasable shackles. I know OME makes a set, but I have a new set of adjustables ...
 

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I have about a week on my kit and it’s been decent so far, back and forth to work on the highways. It still rides like a truck no doubt. Not too sure my wife will be happy lol. She expected a smooth ride for the time and money I put into it haha. I’m sure it’ll shine off pavement though.

but one issue I’m having is creaking from the leaf packs on the right side. I got new Nissan top shackle bushings and used the lower rubbers that came with the kit, greased them up before install. double checked torque, everything looks good.
I just assumed because they were new they’d need time to settle in and stop talking so much. Guess I don’t care too much overall, just wondering if it’s something I did or can fix somehow.
My shackle bushings creak like crazy too. I shoot them with some WD40 lithium grease spray a few times a week. That keeps the creaking at bay.

I'd like to find some bolts with zerk fittings for the through bolts and tap a zerk in the shackle barrel to make my own greasable shackles. I know OME makes a set, but I have a new set of adjustables ...
 

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My shackle bushings creak like crazy too. I shoot them with some WD40 lithium grease spray a few times a week. That keeps the creaking at bay.

I'd like to find some bolts with zerk fittings for the through bolts and tap a zerk in the shackle barrel to make my own greasable shackles. I know OME makes a set, but I have a new set of adjustables ...
Yea my Alldogs leaf springs are still creaking quite a bit. More everyday it seems. I rechecked all torque specs, made sure those horizontal brackets aren’t too tight, the shackle bushings were all new and greased thoroughly.

while under there yesterday I was pushing on everything and it feels and sounds like the creaking is coming from those front horizontal brackets that pinch the leafs together to keep them aligned.
Or maybe the center pin bolts are too tight and putting too much tension on the packs? I have no idea, but they’re loud for sure.
 

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With the way that Nissan has set up their front end, a shock absorber manufacturer only has so much length they can work with to produce adequate dampening. This is why Nissan Xterra / Frontier front 5100's will max out at 2" of lift, vs a Toyota example which can push 2.7", depending on application. Toyota 5100's have extended lengths which push the 22" mark and have more available room to allow for adequate rebound dampening at greater lift. Toyota applications are also generally not limited by the unique upper control arm position that Nissan uses.

The front end in an Xterra or Frontier can only really tolerate about 15.5" of extended length in a front shock before running into coil bucket contact clearance issues with factory control arms. This limits the height a 5100 can produce and is why we only make lift coils for Nissan platforms which top out at 2". With adequate weight on the vehicle, a shock with our lift coil installed will have the piston located low enough in the shock body to provide for appropriate rebound dampening. For instance, you wouldn't want to run our heavy coil on a vehicle without steel bumper, winch, skids, and so on - this would cause shock top out. In an ideal situation a longer shock body and shaft length would be used to provide for greater rebound dampening but we orient our kitting within the limitations of OE control arms for users on a budget.

Bilstein shocks are valved digressively, as previously noted. This makes for a shock absorber which is ideal for use on daily / highway driving and is what Bilstein generally develops for. The characteristics being described as the result of driving over pot holes and road imperfections, et al, are partially specific to valving and partially specific to high psi nitrogen charge that Bilstein uses in their dampeners to resist aeration / cavitation at extreme heat. They aren't as forgiving on the compression side. Building a dampener is an exercise in compromise; it's very challenging / complex / expensive to produce a dampener which excels in a broad range of areas / does "everything" right. We currently build our kitting around 5100's because they're inexpensive, they're readily available, and they dampen well for the majority of users using them.

A twin tube shock absorber in a Nissan application suffers similar limitations to the 5100. You can only squeeze so much lift out of the limited extended length the OE Nissan control arms will allow for. If you don't run the appropriate spring for the weight of the vehicle, it would be just as apt to top out. Twin tubes do offer the benefit of different road feel, or more forgiving dampening on compression over road imperfection, but at the trade off of not being able to tolerate heat as well as a monotube like the 5100 does.

We've been working on a budget-friendly shock project which is less oriented toward highway performance / on-road feel like the 5100's are and more toward offroad driving performance. This will be at a trade-off. The shocks we're working on will feel better on compression events and low to mid speed offroading, but will do so at the compromise of more body roll and a less planted highway feel than 5100's offer. We'll hopefully be able to offer them in OE length and an extended travel length (which would require aftermarket UCAs) and should have more info in the coming months.

This conversation is focused on kitting at an approximate $900-$1,400 budget. There are other options out there such as Radflo but the addition of custom coilovers into the conversation pushes kitting budgets past $2,000 and into a different tier.
I've now heard that ADO is working on developing shocks, UCAs, maybe recovery points, and something else that I can't remember. Would you mind at some point posting an update on all the products you guys have in development? I'm sure I'm not the only one who's curious about your new stuff!
 

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Yea my Alldogs leaf springs are still creaking quite a bit. More everyday it seems. I rechecked all torque specs, made sure those horizontal brackets aren’t too tight, the shackle bushings were all new and greased thoroughly.

while under there yesterday I was pushing on everything and it feels and sounds like the creaking is coming from those front horizontal brackets that pinch the leafs together to keep them aligned.
Or maybe the center pin bolts are too tight and putting too much tension on the packs? I have no idea, but they’re loud for sure.
@jschaf give us a call when you have time and we'll see what we can do to troubleshoot the noise. The leaf packs shouldn't be chattin' at you. :)
 

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I've now heard that ADO is working on developing shocks, UCAs, maybe recovery points, and something else that I can't remember. Would you mind at some point posting an update on all the products you guys have in development? I'm sure I'm not the only one who's curious about your new stuff!
We can't really make announcements like this on corporately owned forums as they generally require "sponsorship". We're here to participate and provide support where we can but there's a fine line between 'participating' and 'advertising' that we try to not cross. You're correct though, we've got some fun stuff in the pipeline!
 

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We can't really make announcements like this on corporately owned forums as they generally require "sponsorship". We're here to participate and provide support where we can but there's a fine line between 'participating' and 'advertising' that we try to not cross. You're correct though, we've got some fun stuff in the pipeline!
Aw, crap! That sucks, but I get it. So where's the best place to find out about new ADO stuff? FB page?
 
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