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Discussion Starter #1
Got this 2011 Pro-4X from the wreck auction. Looks like it may have hit something hard with the front right wheel. The spindle was bent way back, minor control arm damage, minor subframe damage at the rear mount of the lower control arm. Replaced the whole corner and worked the mount a little.

Took it to an alignment shop that was supposed to be good. They couldn't get the caster or toe(?) in spec. Would you please look at these photos and the printout and see if you have any advice for me. Thanks.
2020-02-09 19.47.27.jpg
2020-02-09 19.49.43.jpg Front view of the LCA front mount.

2020-02-09 19.53.09.jpg Rear view of the LCA rear mount

2020-02-09 19.54.49.jpg Resulting alignment data.

I've read about increasing caster for clearance and I'd like to do that. I'm considering using the grinder to modify the cam stop to allow the cam to be pushed further outboard. What suggestions do you have?
 

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What stands out the most to me is that they couldn't get toe in spec, there's a ton of adjustment available from our tie rods so that should have been a simple adjustment. Did you/they replace any of the tie rods?
 

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If you want to to be able to adjust caster enough to increase clearance, you'll need to buy the SPC uppers, and do what is called the "brutal alignment". (although I would recommend just trimming a little sheet metal). That shop has no bloody idea what they are doing, never let them touch your rig again. They made it worse all the way around, and like @General_Tarfun said, the toe was worse.... that's pretty unbelievable. If all those components are stock, they should have been able to dial it in, if it got hit, then you may have some bent items.... Tie Rods, LCA, UCE, Wheels. If all those items are fine, then there is no excuse for not getting an in spec alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Agreed, that shop was crap, don't think they even did toe. I'm going to rough caster and camber in to where I think it's best, use my toe alignment plates and take it to a different shop for (hopefully) fine tuning.

First shop said the alignment machine/process calibrates the steering wheel sensor. Is that true?
 

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First shop said the alignment machine/process calibrates the steering wheel sensor. Is that true?
No, If you want to reset the steering angle sensor, leave the battery disconnected for a few hours, or overnight, re connect, and drive in a straight line for a few hundred feet. Once the dash lights go off, your steering angle sensor is reset.
 

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^This. I ran into that problem a few months ago after installing new tie rod ends because the battery got disconnected during the job, the wheel was to the right when I reconnected the battery and drove to the alignment shop and they set it straight. But then the traction control kept going crazy because the computer still thinks that the straight ahead position is to the right where it was before the alignment. I parked it with the wheel straight, disconnected the battery again for a few minutes, drove it a half mile or so and all the dash lights went off.
 
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