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Discussion Starter · #1,001 ·
Time for maybe a full wrap or something? You would be surprised on the shipping stuff. I recommend going through LKQ if you can find a paint matched door since they actually ship for free up and down the west coast if you can pick it up from one of their locations. I've done that for my front and rear diff's and it's worked our really well.
I would totally get one if I could just find one! Downside of this color for sure. Haha I like the idea of the wrap but it would be soo unnecessary. TBH I like the battle scars at this point. Each one is a fond memory.
 

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OK, so I did a kind of "experiment" that did not turn out so well. I took the worst of my trail damage (which was starting to rust and flake off badly) and tried to stem the wound. I got a color match kit with primer, paint, and clear coat for my b-day a few years ago, so I gave it a shot. I didn't care too much about dents/scratches - more about just getting the color right and stopping rust. That area had some some my worst pinstriping as well, so I decided to do a bit more while I was at it.

The color turned out to match well and the paint is SMOOTH, but I couldn't quite get the shine of the original. IDK why. I did coats of clear coat and then tried to buff it out with sander & polish as instructed, but I couldn't quite get the clear layer. I figured "when it's dirty, no one will notice" but you still notice LOL. I think it's funny. It's just on the door so it could be worse... if I ever see a metallic green at the junkyard I'll harvest the doors for replacement. If I had to do it again, I would probably only paint over the worst rusted parts. The color match is good enough that in a small area like that it would be inconspicuous even without the clear coat being perfect.

You tell me what you think is worse, the before or after? haha

BEFORE:




AFTER (CLEAN):



AFTER (DIRTY):

I realize I am late to the party - but for others benefit - if you would have painted all the way to the door edge, bottom of the window, and down to the molding - then blended in a bit right where the fender flares - it would have been far less noticeable. Any break - even the small gap between doors - fools the human eye into not noticing.

Yes, a shop would have painted the whole door, but they still would have needed to blend into the front door and back fender - and they probably would have re-cleared all 3. And charged you $2000.

It actually looks pretty good for a driveway fix. What Kit did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,004 ·
Wtf is happening with this CV boot? This is the inner on my passenger side. I found it recently during an oil change. There was some oil on my skid plate... I'm wondering if maybe it came out of the inner joint? Do you think it could have squeezed out?

 

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Discussion Starter · #1,006 ·
Is that a crack forming on the smaller end?
Seems so. But there is no grease seeping right from the crack. Or maybe it is all around gone and dried up. Either way, I ordered a new one and I'm gonna try to get cost covered under warranty. I don't see how a CV boot could twist up that badly without the joint being busted. I do hear some amount of clicking in 4WD
 

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It's definitely has twisted counter clockwise. Maybe just the boot was loose and got snagged and twisted on something?
 

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Still happy with your limiting straps? I'm thinking of adding some myself. Waiting for all titan swap parts to come in and want to extend the life of the radflos as much as possible. I know my 5100s clunk pretty bad on droop. Do you have any rattling/banging when just driving around on the street with them?
Do you remember the length of straps that you got?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,009 ·
Still happy with your limiting straps? I'm thinking of adding some myself. Waiting for all titan swap parts to come in and want to extend the life of the radflos as much as possible. I know my 5100s clunk pretty bad on droop. Do you have any rattling/banging when just driving around on the street with them?
Do you remember the length of straps that you got?
Yes!! It's a bit of of a weird experience going over deeper potholes at a moderate (10-15 mph) speed. It is extra bouncy now when the shocks top out, as opposed to a clunk and then a hard stop. However, I don't have anymore awful clanking. Not been long enough to see if they actually extend the life of my shocks yet, but it seems promising so far. There are no noises from the straps at all. They are 11" in length.

Only negative is that it is a bit awkward to fit the brake lines now. At full clock, the stainless steel line rubs on the inside of the tire a bit. Not enough to make me do anything serious about it though...
 

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Thanks for that info.
The bounce makes sense, I'm guessing the internal bump, although not much, but softens that a bit. But now you get a hard "bottom" out with the strap. I think it's still worth doing that, I'm going to try to call Radflo, see what they have to say about this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,011 ·
Thanks for that info.
The bounce makes sense, I'm guessing the internal bump, although not much, but softens that a bit. But now you get a hard "bottom" out with the strap. I think it's still worth doing that, I'm going to try to call Radflo, see what they have to say about this.
Radflo was actually who suggested it to me lol. Cus the first time I sent it in for a rebuild, the internal droop stop had disintegrated. I don't mind the bounce, it makes for a fun ride. And honestly it's only when you are going "a bit too fast" that it happens. You should probably not be driving in a way that tops out our shock with every pothole...
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,012 ·
Replaced my rear shock lower bearings. The bearings were completely toast. Rattling around with a metal-on-metal sound on rough roads.

The process also majorly sucked. The spacers & bolts were seized inside of the bearing. It took me about 6 hours to get them out. I used a grinder, dremel, ball joint press, hammer & punch, impact, wrenches, WD-40, heat, etc. I really did not want to take off my leaves. Not that it would have given me much more help to do that anyway. I had to cut the bolts out & bend the shock mounts to get everything free. At one point I actually cut notches in my shock skids to allow me to pull them off without taking the bolt out for better access.

I was able to replace the bearings & make a mess of the lower shock eye (all these gouges on it now) but it works just fine and actually made a big improvement in ride quality! I also got my first bottle of anti-sieze and will be utilizing that much more often...


 

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That job looks like it sucked big time. My rule of thumb is that every bolt that comes off comes back on with anti-seize. Has saved my butt several times already.
I’m confused about anti seize because I’m getting conflicting opinions. Where do you put it?


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Discussion Starter · #1,015 ·
I’m confused about anti seize because I’m getting conflicting opinions. Where do you put it?


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Pretty sure you can put it nearly anywhere you want. In this case I put it on literally the entire shock body (that rusted to the bearing spacers) & threads. Clearly needs it.

Not sure if there is any downside to putting it everywhere aside from mess. Only concern is that it acts somewhat as a lubricant and that needs to be taken into consideration when torquing bolts to a certain spec.

 

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Pretty sure you can put it nearly anywhere you want. In this case I put it on literally the entire shock body (that rusted to the bearing spacers) & threads. Clearly needs it.

Not sure if there is any downside to putting it everywhere aside from mess. Only concern is that it acts somewhat as a lubricant and that needs to be taken into consideration when torquing bolts to a certain spec.
Yeah that was it -- how do you adjust the torque values for the anti seize on the threads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,017 ·
Yeah that was it -- how do you adjust the torque values for the anti seize on the threads?
It seems like this is one of those things that no one has a definitive answer on. Some say to reduce torque by 25%, others say "getting the right clamping force is more important than worry about over-tightening the bolt".
 

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Yeah I put it everywhere and I also don’t worry about torque specs.

Torque specs in general are not needed for most things. I only use them for when tightening bolts on gasketed surfaces. Otherwise good and tight is good enough. There are a few exceptions (like U bolts) but just tighten it up and send it. If your worried check them occasionally while changing the oil.
 

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It seems like this is one of those things that no one has a definitive answer on. Some say to reduce torque by 25%, others say "getting the right clamping force is more important than worry about over-tightening the bolt".
huh that's even more confusing! If your surface is lubed wouldn't you have to tighten it MORE not less?

Yeah I put it everywhere and I also don’t worry about torque specs.

Torque specs in general are not needed for most things. I only use them for when tightening bolts on gasketed surfaces. Otherwise good and tight is good enough. There are a few exceptions (like U bolts) but just tighten it up and send it. If your worried check them occasionally while changing the oil.
Well... the truth of the matter is, I'm not a hardware guy, I write software, so I don't have the same intuition that you have about these things. I don't have an understanding of how the torque values are arrived at, what kinda testing the manufacturer does, but I assume if they tell me that lug nuts should be at 98ft/lb that there's a solid engineering reason behind it... 3 uga-chagas might be 105ft/lb or something, but I don't have the necessary experience or comfort level to make that judgement. So I'm gonna stick with what Nissan recommends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,020 ·
Finally replaced my weird looking CV. The axle came shipped with the cap popped off and that was a massive mess and annoyance to get that seated. I found the old axle had a penny-sized tear in it and most of the grease was gone. Makes sense why it failed! Not sure how the tear happened though. I would like to open it up & look but I'm gonna try to warranty it so unfortunately I have to return as is.

 
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