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A few days ago you wrote "35s are TOTALLY not necessary and a rabbit hole you should avoid if you can."

Does that mean if you were going to do a whole new build from stock, you would stay with 33's?

Also, you were thinking about limiting straps earlier. Did you ever install them? What would be the difference between limiting straps and reinstalling the swap bar?
 

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Discussion Starter #922
A few days ago you wrote "35s are TOTALLY not necessary and a rabbit hole you should avoid if you can."

Does that mean if you were going to do a whole new build from stock, you would stay with 33's?

Also, you were thinking about limiting straps earlier. Did you ever install them? What would be the difference between limiting straps and reinstalling the swap bar?
Haha not exactly. For me personally, I do trails that put the 35s to use. For 98% of people, they are not needed.

Limit straps vs sway bar serve a completely different purpose. Limit straps help prevent damage to your shock when it droops all the way. Swaybar limits body roll. I don't have either, yet.
 

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Haha not exactly. For me personally, I do trails that put the 35s to use. For 98% of people, they are not needed.

Limit straps vs sway bar serve a completely different purpose. Limit straps help prevent damage to your shock when it droops all the way. Swaybar limits body roll. I don't have either, yet.
Ahhh, gotcha. I'm on your page now. I have heard how the front sway bar limits articulation and that limit straps would establish a maximum droop, but didn't understand the exact difference in the final effect of each.

I'm doing the cost / benefit thing with 35"s. There are a lot of deep muddy ruts on the trails around me half the year, and deep snow the other half, so I would really like the additional clearance of 35"s, but there are a lot of hoops to jump through in order to make that happen. I really like your build thread because of the detail you have put into it. It's good info.
 

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Discussion Starter #925
So I just created a cool kit of spare camshaft sensors, crankshaft sensor, and ignition coil. Had it all labeled using the packing slip that came with it from rockauto.

Well not even 24 hours with my emergency kit in the back and my crankshaft sensor goes out AGAIN! WTF! That crappy NAPA brand sensor gave out after barely 800 miles! Thank god I had the spare. I had to change it out in some super brushy hole that turned me into a mosquito buffet. Luckily my GF with tiny arms was able to help.

What was weirdest was that the replacement sensor didn't have an O-ring...? Good thing I noticed it fit weird. What's with that? This one better give me at least 10,000 miles!



All the components fit nicely in this box:



After a night of sleeping, the car doesn't start. It drove just fine before we went to bed.



No O-ring? Come on, Hitachi!! (new one is on the right)

 

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Sheesh man, when you sent me that photo i could barely believe it. Those off brands for these sensors should last longer than that! I'd also throw in a spare coil pack, the main fuses and that weird plastic cooling t thing on the back wall as well since I've heard those are prone to failing and can't really be easily fixed in the field since they are plastic. Should pretty much take care of any of the no start/not going anywhere possibilities that could be easily fixed with a silly small part.
 

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Discussion Starter #928
Just for kicks I decided to try scratch remover against my paint. I used to do this all the time early in my X ownership but it was a never-ending and losing battle after a while.

Anyway, here's a before/after. It actually did a really good job! Look at the edges of the 2nd picture where you can see the line of where I polished. It looks like the paint is dirty but it is actually just clear coat damage. I may try to find a way to do this efficiently for the whole car if I get bored.

 

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That turned out really good. I might try that once the weather cools down a little bit. I have tons of "Desert Pinstripes" along each side of my X. Maybe I'll also take a stab at restoring the dark grey/black plastic pieces along the X.
 

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Discussion Starter #931
And here i was thinking you'd never wax or wash it ever again! That came out quite well. Did you use an orbital or go by hand on it?
Was literally like 2 minutes worth of work with a microfiber cloth. If I was gonna do the whole truck I'd probably want an orbital something just to make it easier. Could be done by hand but it would get real old
 

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Discussion Starter #932
Gonna give this limit strap install a shot this weekend. My coilovers need rebuild every 10k miles because the internal bumpstops get destroyed on droop. I'm not doing high speed running... I guess they just take a beating flexing out in potholes and over the slow stuff.

 

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Discussion Starter #933
Well because of the wildfires, and with no end in sight (no rain in WA :() I'm not going anywhere for a while. Decided to take this opportunity to fix up the front suspension on the X.

I replaced the UCA ball joints - driver side was bad. Also replaced the tie-rod ends - passenger side was bad. Since I am adding limit straps, I just sent my coilovers to Radflo for rebuild. They only have about 12k miles on them since the last rebuild... but the passenger side was leaking pretty badly. Figured I would rebuild them one more time (and hopefully this is the last after the straps).

I also noticed several cracks in my passenger coilbucket. One is previously repaired crack, the other is new. UGH. I don't want to replace that entire coilbucket. It is EXPENSIVE from Nissan (like $220+). Not to mention all the work involved to do that. Now that I have my own welder, I'm gonna try my hand at the repair. Before, it was only welded on top. I'm gonna weld top and bottom and grind the bottom out so that it stays flat for the coilover.

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Well because of the wildfires, and with no end in sight (no rain in WA :() I'm not going anywhere for a while. Decided to take this opportunity to fix up the front suspension on the X.

I replaced the UCA ball joints - driver side was bad. Also replaced the tie-rod ends - passenger side was bad. Since I am adding limit straps, I just sent my coilovers to Radflo for rebuild. They only have about 12k miles on them since the last rebuild... but the passenger side was leaking pretty badly. Figured I would rebuild them one more time (and hopefully this is the last after the straps).

I also noticed several cracks in my passenger coilbucket. One is previously repaired crack, the other is new. UGH. I don't want to replace that entire coilbucket. It is EXPENSIVE from Nissan (like $220+). Not to mention all the work involved to do that. Now that I have my own welder, I'm gonna try my hand at the repair. Before, it was only welded on top. I'm gonna weld top and bottom and grind the bottom out so that it stays flat for the coilover.

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Those are some pretty ugly repair welds, not surprising they failed. I am sure you will do better than that. Also keep an eye on that castle nut on the new tie-rod end as the cotter pin should go through the divits in the castle nut not completely above it as it could get pretty loose before the cotter pin does anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #935
Those are some pretty ugly repair welds, not surprising they failed. I am sure you will do better than that. Also keep an eye on that castle nut on the new tie-rod end as the cotter pin should go through the divits in the castle nut not completely above it as it could get pretty loose before the cotter pin does anything.
I was confused about that. I had the same problem with my last TRE's. There was too much thread. I don't know how that happens.... I torque'd to spec (63 ft/lbs) so not sure what is missing. I guess I'll blame the part. Luckily, a small amount of corrosion locks that nut on pretty quickly ;)
 

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I wonder if they supply too short of a castle nut or just drilled the hole too high. That looks like a pretty low profile nut.
 
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